2016 Exp - Replacing Battery Clamp

[pcmpete]

View media item 6613View media item 6612My 2016 Expedition was having starting issues today.
Looked at the battery and found A LOT of corrosion on the positive terminal and did a load test on the battery and it failed big time.
I had a service done locally not all that long ago and this was not discovered.
Bought a new battery, but when removing the corrosion on clamp i discovered that half of it was missing.

Does anyone know the part number for a replacement? Is it the same as the F150?

 

[Don Hall]

http://www.autos.com/car-maintenance/how-to-clean-and-prevent-car-battery-corrosion

PART #: ?

 

[iimagine]

FL1Z-14300-B is for the whole positive cable but I think there's a better way.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

View media item 6613View media item 6612My 2016 Expedition was having starting issues today.
Looked at the battery and found A LOT of corrosion on the positive terminal and did a load test on the battery and it failed big time.
I had a service done locally not all that long ago and this was not discovered.
Bought a new battery, but when removing the corrosion on clamp i discovered that half of it was missing.

Does anyone know the part number for a replacement? Is it the same as the F150?

I bought a new 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4. I have always had “The Works” service package done on the vehicle at the selling dealer since new. Allegedly, the technician checks a variety of areas, then you’re given a written report on everything.

About a year after I purchased the vehicle and had a service done, I checked the oil and coolant level, and lifted the red rubber positive battery terminal cover. It was COVERED with corrosion - despite the “all okay” from the Ford factory-trained technician (sarcasm....).

I removed most of the corrosion, cleaned the clamp and battery terminal with corrosion cleaner. Within 6-9 months, the corrosion returned. I cleaned it again and covered the clamp with anti-corrosion terminal gel - which has prevented further corrosion.

I have NEVER had a battery terminal and post corrode so severely in over 40 years of owning vehicles.

I have the original battery and intend to replace it in the next few weeks (45,*** miles) before the weather turns cool / cold where I live. I do NOT trust the dealer testing / rating of the battery, as they obviously did not check it when I had it serviced repeatedly.

Good luck.

I suspect you will have to replace the entire cable and clamp. This corrosion must be common to the Expediton based on its design and rubber cover.

 

[Trainmaster]

You can always just replace the clamp, but avoid the Chinese auto-parts store $3 ones. They tend to fit the cable poorly and their cable clamp introduces another area for corrosion. A replacement clamp should be of American quality and applied in a positive way such as soldering. Maybe $25. Not the best way to repair a four year old car, and kind of goobering, in my opinion.

If you care about the car, and like keeping things original and don't trust someone's solder connection, the right repair is replacing the entire lead with a Ford part. The cable's $190 at Tasca Ford. Add an hour's labor. Unfortunately the dealers here would charge $670 for the job. A salvage yard would probably get you the part for $75.

Checking and cleaning battery terminals is standard maintenance. It's not right that Ford forgot/missed this vital inspection, but this is why it pays to look things over yourself from time to time. Nobody but you, regardless of what you pay, will care as you do. If you're a good customer, your ******** to the dealer will probably get you a break.

Unfortunately you discovered that these things corrode quickly. Education comes at a cost, and with crap like this it seems we're being taught these things every week.

Thanks for sharing. The smarter ones here will be looking at their battery cables today.

 

[lbv150]

The battery has a crack around the post...it is not sealed. Thus the corrosion. All the vehicles in my list below with the exception of the '84 Jeep has the original OEM clamp/cables from the factory.

 

[JExpedition07]

My 07’ is still on the originals with no corrosion, wow.

 

[Qatarguy]

Had the same problem recently on my 2011 EXP-KR.

Huge build up of deposits that didnt allow the vehicle to crank. Found the positive terminal broken. Temporarily cleaned with hot water and given a scrub with fine sand paper and then greased to stop the air from touching the terminal and re-forming the deposits. So far so good as a temporary measure.

Meanwhile, tried to go out to check aftermarket terminals, but although plenty chinese ones available, nothing that can be directly replaced nice and easy. I need to un-crimp one of the cables from the positive terminal, and the other cable is lugged, wont fit into the aftermarket terminals which come with a wing nut.

Being a lazy guy not willing to re-lug the cable or un-crimp the other while outdoor temperatures touch 45 deg C (Not helped by the fact that Mr Ford has given me a cable that barely reached the terminal, and any change would reduce the cable length that would make me have to replace the entire starter cable), i
found that while Ford sells the complete starter cable with the terminal attached for the EXP, they sell the terminal separately for the FORD Edge, the part number of which is BT4Z-14450-AA and BA for the positive and negative terminals respectively. Selling online on Amazon, Ebay and parts.com which was the cheapest.

This terminal is an exact replacement for my 2011 EXP as well as for F150 of various years. Check if it fits the 2016 EXP as well.

ps. Over 1 phone call I found the local dealership has the positive terminal and is willing to let it go for the fair sum of $12 in Qatari Riyals so i'm off to the dealership this weekend, although, as previously mentioned, being a bit lazy, i will put off the repair till the winter months. (That adds to the front passenger window which needs to be looked at as it refuses to budge, open the central console to try and fix the head unit that collapsed into the dashboard void due to the support structure breaking, probably due to heat, and a bunch of other things....)

 

[Trainmaster]

Funny, we avoid work when it's cold out here in America too...

 

[bobmbx]

Glue a new US penny to the terminals. The copper cladding conducts those "free electrons" directly to the zinc core of the penny. Sacrificial anode.

Total cost: $0.01.