2017 Front AC Evaporator Replacement - Full Dash Removal?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Steve Tanner

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2019
Posts
7
Reaction score
5
Location
Arizona
On my 2017 XLT EL about a month ago, I noticed that I could hear refrigerant moving through the rear AC expansion valve pretty loudly, like it was wide-open. This seemed unusual since it was pretty cool outside (Phoenix AZ, it's never really "cold") and you don't typically hear refrigerant like that even in the summer. A few weeks later we had a warmer weekend, and my wife mentioned the AC wasn't cooling very well. I drove it and now the front TXV was wide-open too and it was barely cooling (5 degree temperature drop, if that).

Got out my gauges and the low side was like 5 PSI, so clearly low on refrigerant. It took 22oz to get it back to spec. I checked all over the condenser and lines under the hood with my leak detector, but found nothing. As soon as I opened an interior door the leak detector went nuts (it's pretty sensitive). I had to open all the doors and back to clear the cabin before tracking it down.

The leak is coming from the front system, detected strongest at the registers. I don't detect anything from the rear. The service manual says that the system is charged with dye at the factory, and I can see UV dye leaking out of the bottom of the front AC "box" (see picture - this is right behind the glovebox in the front passenger footwell).

I found the evaporator coil itself (OEM or aftermarket) for < $100 on a few sites. The whole OEM air box with new blend doors, actuators, evaporator, and heater core runs about $450. In AZ the blend door actuator plastic falls apart after 7-10 years in the dry heat, so it may be worth swapping the whole thing.

However, all the videos and how-to guides say that you have to remove the shift mechanism, center console, steering wheel, and entire dashboard to remove the evaporator! This seems absurd.

Has anyone done this (or had it done) on a 15-17? Is there a way to swap out the evaporator coil without taking the whole interior front-end of the car apart?

I like to DIY and have the tools to service R134a properly, but I know my limits too. This is my wife's car and the vehicle we take our whole family on trips in. Messing with the steering system and all the air-bag / safety components in the dash is something I'll save up and pay a professional for if that's required to fix this.

It loses about 2oz of refrigerant per week right now, so (other than the environmental impact) I can top it off as long as it doesn't get worse while I save up to get it fixed.

If there's a way to do it without disassembling all that, I'll give it a shot.

Has anyone else tried this?

2023-03-13 20.42.23.jpg
 

Dustin Gebhardt

Full Access Members
Joined
May 10, 2018
Posts
122
Reaction score
55
Location
Tulsa, OK
If your '17 is nearly the same as my '07, dropping the steering wheel is about as easy as it gets. I pull off 1 panel, remove 3 small bolts, then remove 4 large bolts holding the entire steering shaft. It took me less than 10 minutes to replace the steering angle sensor this way, plus a few more minutes to put it all back together. Similarly, removing the airbag on my '07 was pretty easy, too. Disconnect the battery first, then elevate the front wheels so that you can more easily turn the steering wheel. Release a couple of clips on the rear of the steering wheel and the airbag will come out. It's attached with a couple of wiring plugs, if I recall correctly.

Otherwise, I've never pulled the evaporator (but I need to, since my evap temperature sensor is broken, which also requires the evaporator to be removed).
 

sandbuster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2023
Posts
56
Reaction score
19
Location
Titusville FL
It looks like you have a project that will require a lot of patience, pictures (gotta love today's phone technology) and hopefully a buddy that can assist you. Like you I went through the Youtube vids but mostly found Hindu clips that were not terribly helpful. I'm a retired 25+ year ford tech so "I've been there-done that" many times over - 27 years ago.... But the game is still the same. Have your parts onhand prior to beginning. BE PATIENT! Allow yourself a full weekend (unless you've done it before..). Take lots of pictures. Track your screws (it would be SO nice if the factory just used one size, but..) - there will be copious amounts of them. DISCONNECT the battery - take the positive cable and tap it against the negative cable to remove any residual static (nothing gets your attention more than a blown airbag). I normally got away without totally removing the dash but this was years ago when I could just pull off the steering wheel and drop the column down to the seat. Then I would just start at one end and start working my way to the other side eventually pulling the dash far enough away from the firewall to remove the evaporator case. It is a project but it sounds like you have the skills to pull it off if you approach it with patience. Don't forget to take pictures along the way - this will help in getting it back together and help the next guy on the forum that needs to do the same thing. Good Luck!
 

BogueSound

New Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2022
Posts
4
Reaction score
3
Location
Bogue, NC
I have what I believe is the exact same issue on a 2016 XLT with 109k miles. Wife was driving on a 3hr trip a couple of weeks ago and said she had to pull over from being lightheaded. I got in a few days later and immediately smelled a chemical smell that didn't really smell like antifreeze (not sweet smelling). It was about 80F here today and I have slightly cool not ice cold air out of the vents. I have nearly the exact same photo as the original poster, just not in UV but I can still see similar wetting on that grommet/gasket.

This repair bill is going to be $2k+ isn't it?
 
OP
OP
Steve Tanner

Steve Tanner

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2019
Posts
7
Reaction score
5
Location
Arizona
Update on my AC evaporator issue. I was hoping to limp through summer topping it off since a 12oz can of refrigerant lasted about 2 months. Now it's down to less than a week, so I've been getting quotes from local shops. Lowest so far is $1990+tax.

One interesting thing that my usual shop guy (also the lowest quote) said is that his computer indicates Ford updated the evaporator assembly box. The service notes say to replace the whole box, not just the evaporator core. Apparently the new part has a cabin air filter to keep the evaporator from being covered in dirt and crap and prematurely corroding. I'm not sure about the cabin air filter, but the original part number FL1Z19850A has been superseded with FL1Z19850C, which supposedly is the "redesigned so this doesn't happen again" part.

Has anyone had this job done with the updated part and seen if they do indeed have a cabin air filter?

I have a friend who is a retired ASE certified mechanic that does on-site work, and though it's 113F in AZ today my garage is air conditioned so he'd be willing to do the job.

Ford sells the part (FL1Z19850C) locally for $633. Ford parts giant has it for $477, so I'll probably go that route.

If I do end up going that way, I'll post here with updates as they happen.
 

sandbuster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2023
Posts
56
Reaction score
19
Location
Titusville FL
That’s going to be an interesting project for you. I did many evap replacements (and/or heater cores) back in the day working as a Ford tech. Just do your research on YouTube to get as many r&r tips as you can, then drink a tall glass of patience and go to it.
 

sandbuster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2023
Posts
56
Reaction score
19
Location
Titusville FL
Another interesting tidbit, the '17, for whatever reason, does not have a cabin air filter. So Ford is revising their thinking now wanting us, at our expense, to purchased a new modified evap unit that includes a cabin air filter? Something now right about this. Makes me think that is was a terrible over-site not incorporating a cabin air filter to begin with.
 

D-Angler

New Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2023
Posts
4
Reaction score
0
Location
arizona
How did it go? I have the same issue and also live in Phoenix and it’s getting annoying.
 

sarv1976

New Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2022
Posts
2
Reaction score
0
Location
florida
Just had my 2015 limited evaporator assembly replaced 2500$. The condenser was replaced 5 months ago also. 850$ Not happy.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
53,396
Posts
500,653
Members
46,813
Latest member
max357
Top