TLCMccrosky
New Member
Hi all, first post and had a huge amount of difficulties finding information on the web on this, figured I would share my experience DIY for VCT Solenoid replacements.
Disclaimer - I'm not a mechanic - and not liable for damages if you do this just like I did - my kids call me mentally challenged and I believe them sometimes - if you still want to DIY, read on
Issue Description:
- On a long trip, wrench sign popped up on cluster as well as check engine light. Pulled codes and got P0011 and P0016 for Bank 1 Camshaft Position Over Advanced.
- Intermittently while coming to a stop, the car RPM would fluctuate and stall out (not shutting off completely) - restarting ignition would fix this temporarily
- VCT Phaser rattle started around this time as well
Attempted fix (which has worked through an extended test drive):
- Remove/Replace VCT Solenoids + Solenoid gaskets
- Inspect Timing chain for slop/wear
- Remove/Replace Passenger side (Bank 1) valve cover gasket
- Remove/Replace All gaskets/O-Rings on HPFP
- Cleaned all sensors MAF, etc. and all connectors with MAF cleaner
- Cleaned Throttle body
Level of difficulty: moderate - removing the passenger valve cover was a beast - I'm not a mechanic, but have experience turning a wrench
Time spent : 12 hours, do this again I can do it in 1.5 - I fought some things - read on and you can guess where
Total cost: $128 for parts from Ford (don't go aftermarket on seals/gaskets/solenoids) + a $100 Harbor Freight run - this is not needed if you don't ***** up like I did
Process:
Prep:
- Removed all PCV and EGR hoses/connectors
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Removed following connectors in this order: MAF, Throttle Body, HPFP, coil pack, whatever sensor is on back of the intake manifold, passenger side wastegate connector (this one was a PITA), then undid the 4 harness connectors in upper left hand part of engine bay
----------There was 1 more connector that goes over the valve cover down the front of the engine, I couldnt see where it was going and left it on - when I went to remove/replace valve cover, I just had to slide it underneath the harness, but was difficult
- Used a panel removal tool to take the wire 'Christmas tree' holders off of all electrical connectors
- Removed the HPFP - this takes special Torx bits - 30 and 45 - the 45 doesnt come with most Torx sets - hopped on Amazon for a cheap T45 -Amazon Link - was around $10
----after removing the Torx screws, undid the fuel line with a 17mm wrench (yes I know you technically need a line wrench, but this worked fine)
----after that, I left the other hose connected and folded the HPFP to the rear of the engine for the remainder of the duration
- Removed 8mm bolts holding coil packs in, removed coil packs
- Removed 8 x 8mm bolts holding intake manifold in place (I left the Throttle body and pipe connected - disconnecting would have made my life easier, but I'm stupid, so I left it...it worked)
- Removed charge pipe coming from top of passenger side turbo (7mm socket will loosen the clamp) - as well as from underneath the car where it connects to intercooler
- Lifted up the EGR module and hoses and set to the side
- Picked up the intake manifold and moved it to the right ~1 inch - you'll need to do this to access the valve cover bolts for removal
Valve cover removal:
- Many 4 letter words were said - I invented new ones - my neighbors were impressed
- Remove the 12 x 10mm bolts holding valve cover (illustration below)
---there are 2 10mm bolts with studs (#s 1 and 9 in the lower right hand corner of the illustration below) - you have to remove 2 8mm nuts on top of the stud to access the valve cover bolts
---I hate these nuts, I mean really....ended up having to go to harbor freight for a bolt extractor, got 1 out, other one stripped more bare than a Vegas stripper - carefully took my grinder and ground it down flat - no more stud, no more nut - hopefully you wont have to do this
---I spent 3 hours on these 2 nuts, they are ultra soft - do NOT use a 12 spline socket on them, use the 1/4 inch drive smaller sockets on them - screw these nuts....ok..onward
Getting the valve cover off is an exercise in patience - Factory has some RTV underneath right between the #3 and #8 bolt as well as between the #1 and #9
- Your seals around the VCT solenoids and spark plug tubes are probably either hard or semi-adhered to the tubes - I took a pick and GENTLY loosened them to break the seal - use 0 strength to do this, just ream the edge with a pick and you're fine
- Next start working your way around the best you can with a pry bar (I used the Nylon pry bars for trim removal to not damage the mating surface on the head) - remember the valve cover is plastic...don't over-force a side
- Sweat your @$$ off for about another 30 minutes wiggling, increasing the amount of force to pull up to get it to break free - a few 4 letter words - whispering sweet nothings - asking the Lord for some help ultimately worked
- Now for the fun part - you have to get it high enough to clear the internals, but low enough to keep it under the HPFP feed line while not breaking the wire harness that is still over it - be patient
Once off, replace all the seals on the valve cover - give it a wipe down - hug it and tell it everything is going to be ok - if you notice cracks on it - go to rockauto.com and buy a new one for <$100 - they come with all new seals pre-installed
VCT Solenoids:
- Easiest part of the job, take off the 8mm bolt, pull up on the solenoid, put the new one in, put the 8mm bolt back in - snug it with the wrench and pretend like you torqued it to spec
- Press down with finger pressure on your timing chain, if it has more than about 1/4" of give, you have a much bigger job in front of you to replace that
Reinstallation:
- Before putting in valve cover, clean the mating surface with some degreaser on a rag - you'll see the 2 spots where RTV is where the head meets the timing cover- take a plastic razor and cut that off
- Put a big ole glob of RTV in those same 2 spots
- Wiggle the valve cover back on - BE PATIENT - it'll take some time - intake mani might slip, etc. - also have to get underneath fuel line and wire harness (taking those all the way off would make this easier, see above as to why I didnt - probably because I'm too stupid)
- Once it seats, you'll know - don't do what I did and go hogging out on retorquing it yet - I allegedly caught the wastegate sensor wire underneath the valve cover and had to do some electrical work - don't be that guy - check all your edges first
- NOOOOW go through and retighten - re-torque all the bolts to 88 in/lbs
Reinstall Intake manifold - 88 in/lbs here as well - here's the order:
After that, things go quick - reinstall everything else - this is a GREAT time to clean all your sensors with MAF cleaner - your connectors as well if needed - if you do your connectors, give it an hour to dry to be safe before reconnecting
Last thing should be reinstalling negative battery terminal
Hope you had fun - hope this helps others that google and are needing some tips - hope that my neighbors kids didnt learn the meaning of the words I spoke
If you have specific questions - hit me up - I likely didnt do this like Ford would have - they would have done it better - but I'm cheap and didnt want to pay close to $1,000 for a job I knew I could do
Disclaimer - I'm not a mechanic - and not liable for damages if you do this just like I did - my kids call me mentally challenged and I believe them sometimes - if you still want to DIY, read on
Issue Description:
- On a long trip, wrench sign popped up on cluster as well as check engine light. Pulled codes and got P0011 and P0016 for Bank 1 Camshaft Position Over Advanced.
- Intermittently while coming to a stop, the car RPM would fluctuate and stall out (not shutting off completely) - restarting ignition would fix this temporarily
- VCT Phaser rattle started around this time as well
Attempted fix (which has worked through an extended test drive):
- Remove/Replace VCT Solenoids + Solenoid gaskets
- Inspect Timing chain for slop/wear
- Remove/Replace Passenger side (Bank 1) valve cover gasket
- Remove/Replace All gaskets/O-Rings on HPFP
- Cleaned all sensors MAF, etc. and all connectors with MAF cleaner
- Cleaned Throttle body
Level of difficulty: moderate - removing the passenger valve cover was a beast - I'm not a mechanic, but have experience turning a wrench
Time spent : 12 hours, do this again I can do it in 1.5 - I fought some things - read on and you can guess where
Total cost: $128 for parts from Ford (don't go aftermarket on seals/gaskets/solenoids) + a $100 Harbor Freight run - this is not needed if you don't ***** up like I did
Process:
Prep:
- Removed all PCV and EGR hoses/connectors
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Removed following connectors in this order: MAF, Throttle Body, HPFP, coil pack, whatever sensor is on back of the intake manifold, passenger side wastegate connector (this one was a PITA), then undid the 4 harness connectors in upper left hand part of engine bay
----------There was 1 more connector that goes over the valve cover down the front of the engine, I couldnt see where it was going and left it on - when I went to remove/replace valve cover, I just had to slide it underneath the harness, but was difficult
- Used a panel removal tool to take the wire 'Christmas tree' holders off of all electrical connectors
- Removed the HPFP - this takes special Torx bits - 30 and 45 - the 45 doesnt come with most Torx sets - hopped on Amazon for a cheap T45 -Amazon Link - was around $10
----after removing the Torx screws, undid the fuel line with a 17mm wrench (yes I know you technically need a line wrench, but this worked fine)
----after that, I left the other hose connected and folded the HPFP to the rear of the engine for the remainder of the duration
- Removed 8mm bolts holding coil packs in, removed coil packs
- Removed 8 x 8mm bolts holding intake manifold in place (I left the Throttle body and pipe connected - disconnecting would have made my life easier, but I'm stupid, so I left it...it worked)
- Removed charge pipe coming from top of passenger side turbo (7mm socket will loosen the clamp) - as well as from underneath the car where it connects to intercooler
- Lifted up the EGR module and hoses and set to the side
- Picked up the intake manifold and moved it to the right ~1 inch - you'll need to do this to access the valve cover bolts for removal
Valve cover removal:
- Many 4 letter words were said - I invented new ones - my neighbors were impressed
- Remove the 12 x 10mm bolts holding valve cover (illustration below)
---there are 2 10mm bolts with studs (#s 1 and 9 in the lower right hand corner of the illustration below) - you have to remove 2 8mm nuts on top of the stud to access the valve cover bolts
---I hate these nuts, I mean really....ended up having to go to harbor freight for a bolt extractor, got 1 out, other one stripped more bare than a Vegas stripper - carefully took my grinder and ground it down flat - no more stud, no more nut - hopefully you wont have to do this
---I spent 3 hours on these 2 nuts, they are ultra soft - do NOT use a 12 spline socket on them, use the 1/4 inch drive smaller sockets on them - screw these nuts....ok..onward
Getting the valve cover off is an exercise in patience - Factory has some RTV underneath right between the #3 and #8 bolt as well as between the #1 and #9
- Your seals around the VCT solenoids and spark plug tubes are probably either hard or semi-adhered to the tubes - I took a pick and GENTLY loosened them to break the seal - use 0 strength to do this, just ream the edge with a pick and you're fine
- Next start working your way around the best you can with a pry bar (I used the Nylon pry bars for trim removal to not damage the mating surface on the head) - remember the valve cover is plastic...don't over-force a side
- Sweat your @$$ off for about another 30 minutes wiggling, increasing the amount of force to pull up to get it to break free - a few 4 letter words - whispering sweet nothings - asking the Lord for some help ultimately worked
- Now for the fun part - you have to get it high enough to clear the internals, but low enough to keep it under the HPFP feed line while not breaking the wire harness that is still over it - be patient
Once off, replace all the seals on the valve cover - give it a wipe down - hug it and tell it everything is going to be ok - if you notice cracks on it - go to rockauto.com and buy a new one for <$100 - they come with all new seals pre-installed
VCT Solenoids:
- Easiest part of the job, take off the 8mm bolt, pull up on the solenoid, put the new one in, put the 8mm bolt back in - snug it with the wrench and pretend like you torqued it to spec
- Press down with finger pressure on your timing chain, if it has more than about 1/4" of give, you have a much bigger job in front of you to replace that
Reinstallation:
- Before putting in valve cover, clean the mating surface with some degreaser on a rag - you'll see the 2 spots where RTV is where the head meets the timing cover- take a plastic razor and cut that off
- Put a big ole glob of RTV in those same 2 spots
- Wiggle the valve cover back on - BE PATIENT - it'll take some time - intake mani might slip, etc. - also have to get underneath fuel line and wire harness (taking those all the way off would make this easier, see above as to why I didnt - probably because I'm too stupid)
- Once it seats, you'll know - don't do what I did and go hogging out on retorquing it yet - I allegedly caught the wastegate sensor wire underneath the valve cover and had to do some electrical work - don't be that guy - check all your edges first
- NOOOOW go through and retighten - re-torque all the bolts to 88 in/lbs
Reinstall Intake manifold - 88 in/lbs here as well - here's the order:
After that, things go quick - reinstall everything else - this is a GREAT time to clean all your sensors with MAF cleaner - your connectors as well if needed - if you do your connectors, give it an hour to dry to be safe before reconnecting
Last thing should be reinstalling negative battery terminal
Hope you had fun - hope this helps others that google and are needing some tips - hope that my neighbors kids didnt learn the meaning of the words I spoke
If you have specific questions - hit me up - I likely didnt do this like Ford would have - they would have done it better - but I'm cheap and didnt want to pay close to $1,000 for a job I knew I could do
