2018 expedition wheel bearing noise/blinker issue

scott482

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I have a 2018 expedition max platinum and I started getting a loud hum from what seems to be the drivers front. Checked for play in both front wheels then pulled them(no play) and everything else looked ok. No abs codes or anything. Had a friend drive it and he says it also seems to be driver front ( noise gets louder when turning right). Seems pretty easy to replace the hub just want to be 100% before I get into it. Any other way to check the wheel bearing?

On another note my blinker lights on the dash both hyper flash, been like this since I bought it and it’s starting to bother me. Checked all the lights and none are burnt out. The emergency flashers do NOT hyper flash on the dash which is weird. The outside lights blink normal speed at all times so I’m stumped. I think this thing came with all factory LEDs

I should also ad I’ve searched pretty extensively online and nothing really similar to either of my situations
 

wakeboarder

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Is it a 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive? Does the noise occur in both 2h and 4a? The 4 wheel drive hubs are pretty common for a noise.
 

scott482

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It is 4WD and the noise occurs in both and does not get worse or better in either 2WD or 4WD. The only thing I can compare the noise to is tire noise as if I’m running 35s. Which to me is usually a wheel bearing, but there is no play in the tire or an ABS light.
 

scott482

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Something I did notice when the wheel was off was that there is about 1.5-2” of backlash between the wheel and CV axle (not the cv axle and front diff) which must be normal because the opposite side was identical.
 

BMW2FORD

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A good way to test if it’s a wheel bearing is to have all 4 wheels off the ground with the tires left installed, engage 4wd, shut the traction control and have someone bring the car up to the road speed where you normally hear the noise when on the road. Try to remember the transmission gear that it was in on the road and manually shift it to that if possible and / or needed. While the car is being driven with the wheels hanging, (be very careful doing this) place your hand anywhere on the lower or upper control arm and see if you feel a rotational grind or rough feel in either arm. You can hold the spring as well. Compare this to the other side but with the wheels off the ground, a good bearing shouldn’t have any rough feeling transmitting to either the upper or lower control arm or spring and it should feel smooth. My advice if one bearing is bad and you have more than 20k on the vehicle that it would be good to change both sides. There pretty fast to change and the axles are not a tight fit needing any type of press equipment like some front wheel drive set ups.
 

scott482

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I had the front end off t
A good way to test if it’s a wheel bearing is to have all 4 wheels off the ground with the tires left installed, engage 4wd, shut the traction control and have someone bring the car up to the road speed where you normally hear the noise when on the road. Try to remember the transmission gear that it was in on the road and manually shift it to that if possible and / or needed. While the car is being driven with the wheels hanging, (be very careful doing this) place your hand anywhere on the lower or upper control arm and see if you feel a rotational grind or rough feel in either arm. You can hold the spring as well. Compare this to the other side but with the wheels off the ground, a good bearing shouldn’t have any rough feeling transmitting to either the upper or lower control arm or spring and it should feel smooth. My advice if one bearing is bad and you have more than 20k on the vehicle that it would be good to change both sides. There pretty fast to change and the axles are not a tight fit needing any type of press equipment like some front wheel drive set ups

I had the front end off the ground a couple days ago and funny enough I felt a gritty feeling when holding on to the coil from the opposite site I had thought had the bad bearing. I’m thinking of just doing both sides and calling it a day. Looks super easy.
 

BMW2FORD

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Sounds like you got it. That gritty feeling is usually a bad wheel bearing but being it’s on the opposite side you could do the same but place your hand in the front diff one side at a time. If felt more in the diff then that might be the problem and draining and checking the fluid for metallic debris would be best to do next. Unfortunately the front diff doesn’t have a drain only a fill so you would have to get an extraction tool (no fun). If it stays best felt in the coil spring then I’d agree and say to replace both front bearings. There’s also this kit below from Steelman that you can clip leads onto body and chassis parts and change channels and listen to where it’s loudest or most isolated. Sometimes 4wd noises really need load and on road driving to pinpoint so this helps to clip on leads and drive / listen to what channel is the loudest or most defined.

STEELMAN ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder Auto Diagnostics Tool, 6 Microphone Clamps with Leads, Over-Ear Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHIAES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZH584B1AVVXJGW6TH1DG
 

scott482

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Sounds like you got it. That gritty feeling is usually a bad wheel bearing but being it’s on the opposite side you could do the same but place your hand in the front diff one side at a time. If felt more in the diff then that might be the problem and draining and checking the fluid for metallic debris would be best to do next. Unfortunately the front diff doesn’t have a drain only a fill so you would have to get an extraction tool (no fun). If it stays best felt in the coil spring then I’d agree and say to replace both front bearings. There’s also this kit below from Steelman that you can clip leads onto body and chassis parts and change channels and listen to where it’s loudest or most isolated. Sometimes 4wd noises really need load and on road driving to pinpoint so this helps to clip on leads and drive / listen to what channel is the loudest or most defined.

STEELMAN ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder Auto Diagnostics Tool, 6 Microphone Clamps with Leads, Over-Ear Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHIAES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZH584B1AVVXJGW6TH1DG
I’ll get these ordered up and see if I can’t give it a go, thank you. Possibly any clue on the blinker issue?
 

BMW2FORD

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Sounds like a bulb or led light is out. Maybe go over all the bulbs / lights again. We’re any just changed and maybe not the correct type?
 
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