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2nd Gen Inner Rockers

Discussion in 'Exterior' started by jstar, Apr 23, 2020.

  1. jstar

    jstar Member

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    I posted this in the second gen forum but moving to this one in hopes for better visibility.

    I have a 2003 XLT 2WD with rusted inner and outer rocker panels. Replacing/repairing the outer rocker has been well documented and I have plenty of information to tackle that task. My issue is the inner rocker panel. The rust is quite severe towards the rear of the vehicle to the point that the inner rocker is rusting away. The running board flexes when I stand on the rear because of the degradation.

    So, in saying that, what is the best method of repair? I see the Ford part number is 2L1Z-7810110-AA but has been discontinued. Will a 2007 inner rocker fit? Or, should I just cut out the rusty sections and weld in new plates? I'd like to continue the use of the running boards if possible.

    The floor pan had very little rust and already has been addressed.

    Above was the original question. Below is an addition:

    I will add that I did locate 2003-2006 inner rockers. Also, when under the vehicle I noticed what looked to be adhesive mounting the inner rocker to the body. I didn't look too hard but I didn't see evidence of welds. Is the inner rocker mounted with structural adhesive only or spot welds plus adhesive?

    Cost wise I have very little into the Expy and only have 101,xxx racked up. I'd like to dispose of the cancerous rust and prolong her life. Frame is solid. Minor surface rust patches that I've already knocked out and coated. I have an experienced welder on standby and would like to avoid the costs of a bodyshop. I can do all of the cutting and prep work as well as paint. I just suck at welding. Replacing both inner and outer rocker would allow me to address the root cause of corrosion to minimize its chance of returning.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. 1TonFordGuy

    1TonFordGuy Member

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    Usually they are spot welded at the pinch seam. Then they are glued with chassis adhesive. It is not fun to remove either. I use a coarse wire cup wheel on a grinder to remove the caulk. You will want a face shield and dust mask. Sometimes the caulk will peel right off of rust if you are lucky. A sonic multi-tool thing with a flat scraper works well in flat areas. I just saw on eBay an inner and outer set for $199. I need to do mine too.
     
  3. jstar

    jstar Member

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    Thanks! That's what I had assumed until I stuck my head under. I can see what appears to be adhesive that oozed from the seam between the rocker and floor pan without any evidence of spot welds. If it's just spot welds plus adhesive then the hardest part sounds like it would be removal of the original rocker.
     

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