A/C is warm

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stamp11127

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Which vent are you calling the front vent? The vents in the dash are the defrost, left driver, center and right passenger. Your temp readings indicate you have a air distribution problem. Try the different modes (defrost, floor, vent). If it doesn't change you may have a vacuum problem to the EATC. The default is the defrost when you have a vac leak.

Your temp readings - no way in hell you are getting those high temps at the accumulator. The ir gun is suspect. You can't get 37.8 from the front vent and have refrigerant at 109 degrees.
Read your body temp with it - should be 98.6

(Hold off on this right now, but here are the steps)
To Flush:
All the components need to be opened so the flush can be shot in one line and allowed to drain and evaporate from the other. We use a shop rag on the line that exits to avoid blowing that crap everywhere.
I would even go as far to install new o-rings since you are not supposed to reuse them. The only components that should be removed is the compressor, txv and front orifice tube.
Drain the oil from the compressor on the bench, add some, spin the compressor over to mix the good with the bad. Drain the mixture & repeat one more time.

Coat all o-rings with a little bit of PAG oil before installing.

Once you are ready to button it up add oil as follows:
Front evap - 1 oz
Rear evap - 1 oz
Condenser - 1 oz
Lines to the rear -1 oz
Accumulator - 1 oz (trash you current one)
Compressor - 4 oz (give it time to fill)

This will give you a total of 9 oz ( 2 oz short of factory spec)

If you haven't changed the fan clutch I'd change that also. It would be 20 years on the original. If it isn't shot now it will be soon.

Hose off the radiator and condenser once everything is back together.

To those that are following this thread remember this. Using sealer will mean flushing the system down the road.

Evacuation:
Since the system has been open to moisture, it will be loaded with it. The longer you can vacuum the better. You must achieve at least -29 for it to boil off the water vapor and be vented by the pump. I would go a total of 4 hrs in 30 minute intervals with time in between to let the pump cool off. If the gauge set shows it doesn't maintain vac in the pauses or it doesn't reach that deep vacuum, you have a leak. R134a is very sensitive to the presence of moisture.

Take your time, do it right and you only do it once!
 
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juan214

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Which vent are you calling the front vent?
  • Front is always Front Center Left next to radio.
  • Center Cabin is behind drivers head in ceiling
  • Rear is rear center over rear seat.
Front
IMG_3872.JPG IMG_3873.JPG
25 Degree difference (gun must be wrong)
IMG_3874.JPG
Center Vent
IMG_3876.JPG
Rear Vent
IMG_3877.JPG
 
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juan214

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Your temp readings indicate you have a air distribution problem. Try the different modes (defrost, floor, vent). If it doesn't change you may have a vacuum problem to the EATC. The default is the defrost when you have a vac leak.
  • Modes all work fine
  • System is not defaulted
  • Rear blower works fine
  • Rear modes work fine
  • Reaplaced check valve years ago no problems since
IMG_3879.JPG
 

stamp11127

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What does the temp gun say your body temp is?
Place the thermometer on your body for a comparison reading. (I had to word that differently a few times so it wouldn't be taken wrong!)
 
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juan214

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What does the temp gun say your body temp is?
Place the thermometer on your body for a comparison reading. (I had to word that differently a few times so it wouldn't be taken wrong!)

Your temp readings - no way in hell you are getting those high temps at the accumulator. The ir gun is suspect. You can't get 37.8 from the front vent and have refrigerant at 109 degrees.

Read your body temp with it - should be 98.6 Mine is a cool 91 just like me LOL.

Top of accumulator
IMG_3880.JPG

Top of Hose for rear A/C
IMG_3878.JPG

Exhaust manifold
IMG_3883.JPG

Air Conditioning Compressor
IMG_3882.JPG

OVERKill at the Front Vent it's 12* warmer now than this morning
IMG_3895.JPG
 
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stamp11127

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Toss the upper right thermometer since it is off by 11-12 degrees.

At 125 degrees, does the accumulator feel warm/hot?

Place either of the two other thermometers on the accumulator and see what they say it is. It needs to be on the metal part of the lines or can.

Please post a pic of the accumulator as it is mounted in the engine compartment.

I take it the last pic is of the condensate under the truck? If it is the system is working at some point.

FYI - in auto ac, the larger diameter line is the suction/low pressure side. The smaller line is the high pressure line - which gets hot.
 
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stamp11127

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In the past did your old compressor shoot a bunch of junk into the system? You would see metal shavings on the orifice tube screen.
 
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juan214

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What does the temp gun say your body temp is?
Place the thermometer on your body for a comparison reading. (I had to word that differently a few times so it wouldn't be taken wrong!)
Can the Ambient sensor under the hood screw with this?
Truck says its 75* iPhone says it 85*, Once in a while the truck is off.
IMG_3892.JPGIMG_3893.PNG IMG_E3896.JPG
WE HAVE DRIPPAGE AGAIN!
IMG_3897.JPG IMG_3898.JPG
Bottom of Plenum is colder now. Put had in ther the EVAP is warm, But when I move my closer to the passengers door it real cold. I believe the ompressor sounds louder now.
 
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