A/C is warm

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juan214

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Toss the upper right thermometer since it is off by 11-12 degrees.

At 125 degrees, does the accumulator feel warm/hot?

Place either of the two other thermometers on the accumulator and see what they say it is. It needs to be on the metal part of the lines or can.

Please post a pic of the accumulator as it is mounted in the engine compartment.

I take it the last pic is of the condensate under the truck? If it is the system is working at some point.

FYI - in auto ac, the larger diameter line is the suction/low pressure side. The smaller line is the high pressure line - which gets hot.

Toss the upper right thermometer since it is off by 11-12 degrees.
  • Funny, the top one is the AC thermometer, The blue one is a meat thermometer. The other is my backup They are always in the center console.
At 125 degrees, does the accumulator feel warm/hot?
  • Warm
Please post a pic of the accumulator as it is mounted in the engine compartment.
IMG_3899.JPG IMG_3900.JPG IMG_3902.JPG
Place either of the two other thermometers on the accumulator and see what they say it is. It needs to be on the metal part of the lines or can.

Top of Acumulator
IMG_3901.JPG
Line from compressor at acumulatorIMG_3903.JPG

I take it the last pic is of the condensate under the truck? If it is the system is working at some point.
  • Yes
In the past did your old compressor shoot a bunch of junk into the system? You would see metal shavings on the orifice tube screen.
  • Don't believe it had any metal. Swaped it anyway because a new one came with the kit and did want to have to take it apart again to change it.
 
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stamp11127

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This is a new one, temps are bass ackwards (ass backwards).

For giggles while I'm thinking this one through, what are the line temps before and after the orifice tube, inlet and outlet of the condenser?

The line from the condenser outlet to the evap inlet should be getting cold as the system runs. Any exposed fitting should also start sweating.

One of the things we need to be careful of is what is going to the compressor. As long as it is gas there is nothing to worry about. However if the evap is really flooded and not performing its function of changing the liquid to gas, you run the chance of trying to compress liquid in the compressor. That usually doesn't end well.
In order for that to happen there would have be no airflow over the evap, so no cooling and no condensate. But you have cooling and condensate....hmmm
 
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juan214

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This is a new one, temps are bass ackwards (ass backwards).

For giggles while I'm thinking this one through, what are the line temps before and after the orifice tube, inlet and outlet of the condenser?

The line from the condenser outlet to the evap inlet should be getting cold as the system runs. Any exposed fitting should also start sweating.

I can grab these lines with my bare hands without issue.

The probe is touching metal but wouldn't the air around it contribute to readings?


Shats
IMG_3905.JPG
&
&.jpg
Goggles
IMG_3907.JPG

The line from the condenser outlet to the evap inlet should be getting cold as the system runs. Any exposed fitting should also start sweating.

Nothing is sweating. what is aqnd very slight are the bottom of the air plenum (EVAP). Which started draining today.

Only part that is cold now since dropping pressure down.
EVAP.png

AC line.png
 
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stamp11127

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Lets see how the system reacts by raising the static pressure 5 psi above ambient temp. So if it is 69 degrees out raise the pressure to 74 etc.

Also check the fan clutch. If that isn't moving enough air it will raise pressures.
 
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max78

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Stupid question. When you put everything back together is there any way you connected the wrong line to the wrong port? Seems like the system is running in reverse. . .
 

stamp11127

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That crossed my mind also but the lines were not changed plus the fittings on them make it impossible unless modified.

It is almost as if the orifice tube is absent. Then you would have high pressure liquid flooding the evap instead of low pressure liquid. Any obstruction in the evap would act as an orifice and give limited if any cooling.

The high accumulator temp is throwing everything off.
 
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Lets see how the system reacts by raising the static pressure 5 psi above ambient temp. So if it is 69 degrees out raise the pressure to 74 etc.

Also check the fan clutch. If that isn't moving enough air it will raise pressures.

Go to be a100 today, good weather

Raise the static pressure 5 PSI
  • We are introducing R-134a back into the system by 5 PSI what about the oil that came out?
Fan CLuct check:
  • Did the simple test: Truck has not been started today. Spun the fan as hard as I could on the engine. The fan rotated about a quarter turn so resistance is there.
Reassembly:
  • Each conection at replaced parts & o-rings done one at a time and reassemble right then.
  • No lines or condenser changed.
  • Do not believe that at no point in the system that there are four connections in the same area and the lines should different sizes.
AC Line setup.png
 
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