A warning…

[Andy Rubalcaba]

Andy those are good to go. I used 'em in mine and they've been bulletproof. It's what Ford use to use before the accountants stepped in. You'll need the new Crankshaft bolt as well, since they are "torque to yield" tightening specs. I used a black impact socket and took a silver Sharpie and drew lines 90 degrees apart on the socket (i.e. 4 lines ...). Used an air impact to spin it the required 90 degree torque turn.





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Thank you for discussing! Yes I have a new crankshaft bolt in my cart, I have pretty much picked every single little part that I need for the job, and am spending about 3 grand in parts and some tools ( some are specialty, and a few are just bits and pieces of tools that I don't already have, but it's mostly just the ford parts and such ). I'm replacing everything brand new except the camshafts, those I will wait and see how they actually look. but the rollers, timing kit, fuel pump, all the gaskets and now these iron tensioners, new spark plugs and new ignition coils ( mine have red ones so I think previous owner replaced with aftermarket, so those have got to go ), new battery, pretty much following FordTech's video to the T!

I can't wait to get started, but also nervous cause i've never done a mechanical DIY job this big before. tax money should be here in another 2 weeks so this project is just around the corner

 

[Vdubnick]

Thank you for discussing! Yes I have a new crankshaft bolt in my cart, I have pretty much picked every single little part that I need for the job, and am spending about 3 grand in parts and some tools ( some are specialty, and a few are just bits and pieces of tools that I don't already have, but it's mostly just the ford parts and such ). I'm replacing everything brand new except the camshafts, those I will wait and see how they actually look. but the rollers, timing kit, fuel pump, all the gaskets and now these iron tensioners, new spark plugs and new ignition coils ( mine have red ones so I think previous owner replaced with aftermarket, so those have got to go ), new battery, pretty much following FordTech's video to the T!

I can't wait to get started, but also nervous cause i've never done a mechanical DIY job this big before. tax money should be here in another 2 weeks so this project is just around the corner

the job is not hard at all, tons of room to work once you pull the fan and bottom shroud... the pain in the ass parts in my opinion are the valve covers and power steering pump. you can pull the covers off without pulling coolant or battery box, but you gotta flex some stuff, and the power steering bolts are just a weird angle, so plan on weird extension setups, get a flex shaft if you dont have one. it reminded me of the starter bolts.

absolutely no special tools needed (beside fan clutch), plan on pulling the cam shafts, makes it super easy to change the rollers, and you will probably knock dirt and shit in when pulling the covers, so it makes it easy to clean with cams pulled. everyone references fordtechs vids... he uses the plastic housing tensioners.

 

[Vdubnick]

Agreed .. really can't speculate. It would seem odd that someone would do all that work and just say 'i don't want to know' but make a thread about it? Something doesn't add up

yeah, definitely speculation. very possible the spring failed. blown seal would cause the spring to get fatigued more, but either way it is a guess without tearing it apart. it could be something else like a bolt that loosened, or broken guide.

lol. What a colossal waste of time it would be to disassemble an old truck with a slipping tranny that is going to the junk yard and spend 3-4 hours in -5 degree windchill to look at a seal. An angle grinder certainly isn’t fitting in there without spending an hour or two to remove the fan shroud and clutch assembly. I issued a warning to purchase cast tensioners so others don’t have the same failure after 50,000 miles. If it’s slapping on start up the tensioner arm has relaxed and let the chain go limp. The cast tensioners ratchet tighter and don’t allow this to happen.

nothing worse than busting knuckles in cold weather. so how much you gettin salvage? why not just sell it as a parts car, tons of people by vehicles that need fixing up.

 

[Andy Rubalcaba]

the job is not hard at all, tons of room to work once you pull the fan and bottom shroud... the pain in the ass parts in my opinion are the valve covers and power steering pump. you can pull the covers off without pulling coolant or battery box, but you gotta flex some stuff, and the power steering bolts are just a weird angle, so plan on weird extension setups, get a flex shaft if you dont have one. it reminded me of the starter bolts.

absolutely no special tools needed (beside fan clutch), plan on pulling the cam shafts, makes it super easy to change the rollers, and you will probably knock dirt and shit in when pulling the covers, so it makes it easy to clean with cams pulled. everyone references fordtechs vids... he uses the plastic housing tensioners.

I just hope i'm not missing guide rail pieces, i'd rather not drop the oil pan but definitely prepared to if need be.

 

[JExpedition07]

Andy those are good to go. I used 'em in mine and they've been bulletproof. It's what Ford use to use before the accountants stepped in. You'll need the new Crankshaft bolt as well, since they are "torque to yield" tightening specs. I used a black impact socket and took a silver Sharpie and drew lines 90 degrees apart on the socket (i.e. 4 lines ...). Used an air impact to spin it the required 90 degree torque turn.





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New avatar huh? You had my favorite one site wide for a while there…

 

[JExpedition07]

Also I’d like to give an I told you so credit to hamfisted. Pretty sure he’s the one who told me to get the cast iron tensioners and I didn’t head the advise.

 

[sjwelds]

New avatar huh? You had my favorite one site wide for a while there…

Quite the avatar yourself. Say it ain't so.

 

[scottc]

My 2010 EXP VCT/VVT parts changed-out 2 years ago before I owned the vehicle. Plastic tensioners were used, and so far, so good. I put an oil pressure gauge in, instead of immediately changing the oil pump. Recently installed new-design roller followers. Running 30 psi at hot idle in neutral/park, 25 psi at hot idle in gear with brakes on. Drops to 20 psi coming off a highway to a ramp or stop sign. Cost to do the roller followers in January at a Ford dealership $2,250.00 Cdn, with tax. Two year parts and labour warranty, unlimited miles.

 

[scottc]

Agree with Jeff. I too absolutely take it rev easy on my old 2001 5.4 and now my 2011 5.4. Last away from the light and take it off cruise when climbing hills on the highway. Jump on the Kaw ZX14R when I want to rev!

I bet the Kawi satisfies your appetite for revs. I used to use my Yamaha RZ500 for that. Worked like a charm! Alas, gone now.

 

[WEDGE]

well the 340HV pump has the same oil pressure according to FordTechMakuloco. what brand for the cast iron tensioners did you get? I had found some from Melling on amazon, also can you confirm what someone said on youtube as far as making sure to NOT use the metal backplate on the tensioners?

I didn't want a higher pressure, just higher volume. Other than the Melling 340HV pump, I used ALL Ford parts. I work for Ford so that was a no brainer for me. The tensioners I used (For an older 2V) didn't have a metal back plate