Acceleration Problem

Discussion in '3rd Gen - 2007 - 2017' started by MCExpy10, Dec 31, 2018.

  1. MCExpy10

    MCExpy10 Member

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    Thanks, that's excellent info! Plugs and boots have been done, shortly after I bought it at 80,000 miles. They ended up warrantying one of the spark plugs out for a mis-fire.
     
  2. 1955moose

    1955moose Full Access Members

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    Before changing out any parts, run an advanced diagnostic either by you or a shop. You want to check fuel trims, kv readings of plugs/coils, etc. I think your problems a little more than a fly by wire problem. It's even possible you may have an internal motor problem. Let us know what fixes it, it will help others.

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  3. TobyU

    TobyU Full Access Members

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    Sounds like throttle body motor to me. Sometimes a good check engine light reset and battery disconnect reset like in the video can help for a long while.

    Also, turn key to on but not running and push pedal to floor fast and hard a number of times and hold it there for a bout 3 seconds a number or times too.

    These things are like little volume controls with multiple little copper fingers sweeping over the wiring to chance resistance to tell throttle where to go.
    They get flat spots and damaged fingers and can get corrosion etc.
     
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  4. 2010ELExpy4x4

    2010ELExpy4x4 Member

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    Ours had the terrible lag also. This is our first DBW, took me by surprise when I was trying to get on the I5 and a fast moving big rig was approaching I mashed the peddle and nothing, for what seemed like an eternity.
    That experience started my research in to the issue, there seems to be many contributing factors i.e. traction control etc.
    Ultimately I bought a Superchips programmer, made a huge difference all around, increased throttle response, better shifting, and mileage increased, also I was able to program for the larger tires.
    Superchips also sells a stand alone throttle response module, and doesn't need the programmer, but the programmer offers more options.
    As far as the uneven vibrations ours does it occasionally, haven't figured it out yet.
    Do check the tranny fluid, ours had a bulkhead connector leak, had to drop the pan to replace, noticed quite a difference with new fluid even before using the programmer.
     
  5. MCExpy10

    MCExpy10 Member

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    This is good to know. I was also looking at programmers, but wanted to make sure nothing was wrong with it first. It's still under an extended warranty until March. Despite me bringing it in a number of times since owning for this issue, I'm told it's normal...

    I had the fluids changed out yesterday, and it does seem to perform slightly better.

    I totally associate with you on the pedal mashing. LOL! Like I said, I can usually count to 3 before it actually applies some power to the wheels. I still think I have a bad COP, but the dealership says otherwise. I'm just annoyed that they basically don't do anything unless the check engine light is on. Nobody looks at trims, voltages, etc. Just swapping parts now it seems like. I can do that! I mean it's not like the job is any easier for me to pay someone to do it.

    Sorry, just frustrated. I have an old OBD2 scanner that I'm going to try and get going on a laptop and see if I can grab some readings just to make sure everything is working proper. When I was womping on it last night, it didn't seem to go up and do that fuel cut thing anymore. Time will tell though.
     
  6. 1955moose

    1955moose Full Access Members

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    Most but not all dealers train their people on one thing, sell cars, sell service. Your dealer is taking it to an extreme. I can't believe the part of waiting for a CEL to come on. Get ahold of the Ford regional service rep, and explain your situation. Last thing any dealer wants is to waste time/money in a court battle. Film, and audio, everytime this happens. If you have another dealer fairly close try them first. My sister in law had trouble back in the eighties with a 3.8 Oldsmobile. The dealer here in DalyCity, couldn't or wouldn't fix the famous pinging problem. She got ahold of the Rep, brought it to a Burlingame dealer, and they found a bad sensor. She said the difference was huge after.

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  7. Adieu

    Adieu Full Access Members

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    12mpg city is normal-ish if 4x4 and 3 rows, especially if EL or you carry cargo or people or have LT or AT tires...

    If that's highway or a 4x2 swb, then that's kinda low....then again, the redline thing is weird, 5.4's are pretty peppy for a big truck, and typical driving RPMs are 1500-2000 not 6000


    Misfire...hmmm...you didnt wash your motor with a garden hose did you (DON'T)? Check for coolant leaks into spark plug wells (that crap does NOT evaporate and will kill your coils), also check operating temps and coolant condition, might need clean coolant and a new tstat to run at optimal temps (middle of the gauge, maybe slightly past middle)
     
  8. 1955moose

    1955moose Full Access Members

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    Funny you said that about the temp running in the middle. I put in a new alternator in my 2000, about a month back. I had to lift up the upper hose to get alt in and out. Since doing that my gauge reads a little cooler. Disrupted something by doing that. Runs fine, and heaters still ok.

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  9. Adieu

    Adieu Full Access Members

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    Prolly dislodged a blockage of gunk lol....with new tstat, new coolant, new heater hoses, new plugs, new cops, post-backflush, my SSV ran at like 55% on the gauge. Then again, that's with like 185k mi on motor so who knows
     
  10. 1955moose

    1955moose Full Access Members

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    I would have thought by bending that hose, I'd go higher, not lower. Anyhoo all is well cooling, and running, so just keep an eye out.

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