Another Timing Job Question -2003 5.4L 2V

[acampinoob]

So I've been doing my research and have decided to take on the front timing job in spring. I've watched Makuloco's videos and have been lurking around the forums. A few questions still remain for me. What sort of special tools will I need? I see there is a 303-102 Crankshaft Damper Installer and 303-335 Front Cover Oil Seal Installer. Those are the ones I haven't been able to source reasonably. O'Reilly has a 67006 rental for the damper installer, but there is questions regarding whether it works or not (as @whtbronco mentioned in his post). I was able to source the PS Pump Pulley Remover, Crankshaft Damper Remover, and Engine Timing Kit from Amazon. Is there anything else I should need? I plan on dropping two of the bolts from the front diff to swing it out of the way to get the pan off, so the flex head ratchet isn't needed for the oil pump pickup tube. I also plan to remove the radiator for access too.

Another question. While I have the pan off, should I do rod and main bearings? I have 180k and a little chain slap. My hesitancy is that they are TTY bolts that may be tough to source, especially since there are side main bolts too. I'd appreciate the knowledge @whtbronco and @Hamfisted . You guys are my heroes lol

I also have a SMALL external coolant leak originating from the driver's side head gasket leaking into the valley. I've already done the intake with the ford part and the crossover tube orings and can visually verify it's the head. I plan on pulling heads and have them sent off for reconditioning (new seals & valve job). I can get all lash adjusters for like $85. Is it worth doing as I'll have the heads off? I'd like to get at least 300k out of this motor and with the melling timing kit and high volume oil pump, I think I could make it... Only thing I don't really want to do is piston rings and deglaze the cylinders. That's too far haha. I feel like this can all be done for less than $2k including the machine work (I was quoted $500 total).

 

[whtbronco]

If the coolant hoses are original as mine were this is a great time to replace them.

Honestly the only way to know about the main and rod bearings is to judge the wear you see on the heads and timing chain parts. From that decide if you want to pull a cap from the crank to check. If I was to replace the main and rod bearings there's a good chance I'd take a look at ARP for replacement bolts. I'm not a big fan of TTY bolts. Though the cost of ARP at times sends me back to replacement TTY bolts. I gotta say if you get the heads rebuilt and replace the crank and rod bearings I would without question hone the cylinders and replace the piston rings. I mean heck you'd have darn near a new engine.

The bolts look to be readily available which is good news, but dang they are costly bolts.
Ford F65Z-6345-AA Engine Crankshaft Main Bearing Cap Bolt
Ford F3LY-6214-A Engine Connecting Rod Bolt

Probably no need for the 8mm flex head ratchet wrench if you are gonna pull the oil pan. A deep well 8mm is what I used for the valve covers, along with wobble extensions. A 10mm flex head ratchet wrench helped me with removing the power steering pump.

Unless the timing kit you're getting comes with it you'll need some RTV for the timing cover and valve cover install. New valve cover gaskets, I'd go with Ford replacements since my Fel-Pro passenger side didn't fit.

I ended up going with the standard volume Melling oil pump. I couldn't justify the higher volume this time. I'm not sure either is a bad choice though and I have used Melling high volume oil pumps in the past with good results.

Pretty sure I used the 67306 harmonic balancer installer rented from O'Reilly.

The camshaft holding tools are nice to have, the idea of using vice-grips did not sit well with me. I used a ratchet and extension to turn the cams though and the crank alignment tool I bought was a worthless POS.

 

[acampinoob]

The timing set I plan on using is this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CZKQ1J52?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_CQXCXB21Y3RXS6XR56Z0

That isn't the same crank alignment too you tried to use is it?

 

[whtbronco]

Nah, I used the trash below from Orion Motor Tools. At least the crank alignment tool and the valve spring compressor were trash. The cam holding fixtures, but they ended up working fine. I won't buy these cheap tools again. I know better, but I didn't listen to myself, again. In this case I knew there was an alternative alignment technique so I could get by without the crank alignment fixture. Heck I could have removed all the rocker arms and gotten away without the cam holders too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3XVSFPN?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

 

[Vincent Vega]

Been a few years since I did the timing on mine, but to answer some of your questions, I did not need to use a special tool to replace the front main seal. And yes, definitely worth replacing all lash adjusters and rocker arms while the heads are off. It is alot more difficult to replace the rocks arms with the heads on. One other thought is that its about the same amount of work to replace the head gaskets as it is for a new engine. Also, consider getting the Melling timing kit; you won't want to do this job twice! Have fun.