Any tips for first time DIY oil change on 2020 Expedition 3.5?

[mangoman]

Just got done with brakes and rotors on the highlander.. now moving up to work on the big boy. Couple questions for all of you who do or have done your own oil changes on this vehicle. I’m all set with filter and oil I’m gonna use as well as tools, but are there any other tips and tricks you’d recommend for maximum ease and safety? I’ve got 6 ton stands I can use as well as a 3ton floor jack.. I know some have mentioned they’ve done the job without lifting but for me it just seems like it’ll be tight. Just lifting and setting front and stands sufficient? Any washers or things I’ll need to have on hand to replace or just the fl500s motorcraft filter enough? Thanks in advance friends?

 

[Going_Going_Gone]

If you're going to be doing this on a regular basis, you might spring for a Fumoto valve for the oil pan. Put it on once and eliminate possible cross-threading or gasket replacement. If you get the one with the short nipple, you can run a hose directly into your catch vessel.

 

[mangoman]

Also curious what a safe way to get the front up is? On my highlander I used front jacking piint and then just out stands under pinch welds. This is a little bit different? I know some use ramps.. preferably whichever method i use has a backup / extra layer of safety

 

[VBreithaupt]

Ramps, are so much easier and give plenty of space. I second the Fumoto valve short nipple and hose. No mess and easier to dump oil especially if you have that crappy underbody insulator or upgraded metal skid plate.

 

[sjwhiteley]

The filter has a little 'catch pan' under it, which can drain to the front or to the back. I put a small funnel up to the back drain to guide it into a catch pan. it's surprising how much oil comes out with the filter.

 

[ROBERT BONNER]

Ramps are the safest, all things being equal. The OEM "felt" transmission cover has to be removed to change the oil. With the Expedition at the ramp up angle, the oil draining out of the pan will spill onto the sway bar and go a little wild unless there are other parts installed to deflect the oil. Additionally, the filter has a plastic flow diverter that will spill the filter drain oil onto the engine skid pan (My FX4 has one, I'm unsure if all models have them). If you have a front skid pan behind the front bumper, removing it gives much more open access to the oil filter.

Personally, I do oil changes and tire rotations at the same time every 5K; so, I use (4) air jacks, one under each jack "arrow" punched into the frame, to lift the entire truck until all 4 wheels are in the air. Then I reinforce with (4) jack stands placed closely behind the jacks. I leave the frame resting on all 8 for redundancy. Less open than with ramps, but still plenty of room. The straight lift eliminates the sway bar interference and allows the filter drain to drop straight through the small hole provided in the engine skid plate. I have installed a Raptor transmission plate in place of the useless felt piece that has a removable small oil drain access plate as part of the assembly. I always remove the front skid plate for filter access, I take the opportunity to wash the mud off of the skid plate. I have an oil drain reservoir on wheels large enough to span the filter and pan drains, which helps.

 

[mangoman]

Thnaks for all the feedback.. any thoughts on the Black Widow brand of ramps? https://www.discountramps.com/automotive/ramps/service/p/TS295DT/

 

[mangoman]

Looks like the ramp seller recommends using jack stands in addition to the ramp if working under vehicle:
"Before using the ramps ensure other persons are clear of the vehicle and the ramps. Ensure that the ramps are free from damage or corrosion before use. Use only a single pair of wheel ramps at the front or rear, do not use two ramps on one side of the vehicle. Position the ramps in line with the wheels, with the steering wheel pointed straight and the incline against the tire tread. Carefully drive the vehicle onto the automotive ramps until it is in the correct position. Turn the engine off, apply the parking brake, get out of the vehicle and securely chock the remaining wheels on the ground. Before starting work, walk around the vehicle ensuring it is securely positioned. Always use jack stand if a person will be going under the vehicle. On completion of the work, check the parking brake is still firmly on and remove the chocks. It is important to drive very slowly when coming off the ramps to prevent the automotive bodywork from making contact with the car ramp. Exercise caution when using these car ramps with a trailer or three wheeled vehicles."

That makes sense from a safety/redundancy standpoint.. iplementation-wise, is that easy to achieve though? Drive vehicle up onto ramps and then position jack stands near the front jack points and raise jack stand plate to reach vehicle?

Thanks again expedition fam!

 

[ROBERT BONNER]

I think that you will find that the ramps would interfere with jack stands placed under the front jack arrows. I wouldn't recommend using both. When I've used ramps on my smooth (too smooth?) garage floor, I have the best success idling up the ramps in 4L. If the front wheels aren't driven, my ramps can skid. Once up, set the E-brake and chuck the rear wheels forward and backward. Always SMALL throttle inputs up and down the ramps!

 

[mangoman]

I think that you will find that the ramps would interfere with jack stands placed under the front jack arrows. I wouldn't recommend using both. When I've used ramps on my smooth (too smooth?) garage floor, I have the best success idling up the ramps in 4L. If the front wheels aren't driven, my ramps can skid. Once up, set the E-brake and chuck the rear wheels forward and backward. Always SMALL throttle inputs up and down the ramps!

Good point! One thing I noticed with these ramps - though they're not cheap, is that they look like they have two components/modular - so once the car is on the ramp you can pull away the inclined/ramp portion: https://www.discountramps.com/automotive/ramps/service/p/TS295DT/ - that might make stands a bit more possible..

 

[1775SS]

Unless those ramps are made of cardboard, you don't need jackstands. Although I do like the removable ramp section. That'll make it easier to slide under that area with a creeper.

 

[Trainmaster]

Trying to find out if those ramps are Made of Chinesium. Neither the ad or the manufacturer's web site mentions where they are made which is important to me for anything that can kill me if it fails.

They only raise the truck 6-1/2 inches, which may not be sufficient.

If you check the reviews, there's a comment stating the advertised weight limit listed is incorrect and that the ramps are labeled to only hold 6,500 lbs for the pair. That sounds more credible for plastic ramps.

The manufacturer's web site offers 30% off the advertised price but then adds $33 for shipping, which makes dealing direct more costly than buying through Amazon.

I've called and written to the company and am awaiting a reply. I want to like these...

 

[mangoman]

Trying to find out if those ramps are Made of Chinesium. Neither the ad or the manufacturer's web site mentions where they are made which is important to me for anything that can kill me if it fails.

They only raise the truck 6-1/2 inches, which may not be sufficient.

If you check the reviews, there's a comment stating the advertised weight limit listed is incorrect and that the ramps are labeled to only hold 6,500 lbs for the pair. That sounds more credible for plastic ramps.

The manufacturer's web site offers 30% off the advertised price but then adds $33 for shipping, which makes dealing direct more costly than buying through Amazon.

I've called and written to the company and am awaiting a reply. I want to like these...

Looks like Project Farm included an iteration of these in one of his tests https://youtu.be/cM6rVfUnYP8?si=1tYSwRTniHxpuhnS - several of the ones he tested held up quite well in the load test… after I take her for a wash tomorrow going to see if I can’t squeeze under enough to do the job without raising at all but sure is gonna be tight… may have to go on a diet

 

[mangoman]

Got a front valance on mine that does make it harder to get to filter.

 

[Boosted]

There is good advice in the previous posts.

I use ramps to get the truck up.
I installed a Fumoto valve model F107SX so that I could easily put the outlet where I wanted. I also purchased the little plastic elbow LINK so that I could put a piece of tubing on it and direct the oil to my drain pan without fully removing the felt belly pan. This does not stay on the truck between changes.

Install a quality oil filter and 6 quarts of the oil of your choice. A little gum cutter or brake clean on the oil filter area and it's all done.

Personally, I use CarQuest Premium 84502 filters due to their exceptionally good micron filtration capability and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

 

[KenCar]

I built wood ramps out 2" X 12" lumber laying flat on the concrete floor and layers stacked on top.
First board on the bottom was 48" with and angle cut on the end the wheel drives up.
Next board was 36" long with angle, third was 24" with angle, top board was 15" with angle and a board on the end to stop from driving off that is 9" tall.
Super easy to move around and no danger of them crushing or falling over.
My set is probably 20 years old.

 

[Left Coast Geek]

Can you extract most of the oil from the EB3.5 with a vacuum pump like the mityvac evacuator https://www.skf.com/mityvac/product...pment-and-accessories/fluid-evacuators/mv7201 ? I used to do this on my older Mercedes, you got 99% of the oil this way, it was actually the factory recommended method. suck the oil, change the filter, refill the oil, done! It didn't work at ALL on my Ford 7.3 Powerboost, you could only get about half the oil.

 

[sjwhiteley]

Can you extract most of the oil from the EB3.5 with a vacuum pump like the mityvac evacuator https://www.skf.com/mityvac/product...pment-and-accessories/fluid-evacuators/mv7201 ? I used to do this on my older Mercedes, you got 99% of the oil this way, it was actually the factory recommended method. suck the oil, change the filter, refill the oil, done! It didn't work at ALL on my Ford 7.3 Powerboost, you could only get about half the oil.

You likely could, I believe some on here have done so. However, you still have to change the filter, and the mess that comes with that. Doing the pan drain is the easy part, especially with a Fumoto valve.

 

[Left Coast Geek]

You likely could, I believe some on here have done so. However, you still have to change the filter, and the mess that comes with that. Doing the pan drain is the easy part, especially with a Fumoto valve.

true. said Mercedes had a top access oil filter, super convenient. The 3.2L I6 we had took a LOT of oil, too.. like 8 quarts.

 

[GixxerJasen]

I looked at all the fumoto like products and went with the valvomax and have liked it a lot. It makes the oil filter the worst part of the job.

If you are going to use a power tool to remove those little bolts on the cardboard cover, and I recommend you do because it's a PIA otherwise, you might want to keep a bag of these on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CS2R68PD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Also, no matter what, make sure to chock the downhill wheels when you are under the truck. Safety first, or second, maybe.