Just finished replacing body mounts on my 2001 EB 4x4. Here are some notes that may come in handy for anyone thinking about this. I installed energy suspension body mount kit. The original mounts were dry rotted. It's a one person job, except see note in para 3 below
1. Tools I used: 18mm deep and shallow 6pt sockets. 15mm socket for the front bolts. Flex head ratchet handle. Long handle ratchet torque wrench (all body bolts torque to 59 ft lb). 3" & 6" extensions. Hammer. Penetrating oil. Copper paste anti-seize. Rolling head pry bar. Grinder with wire brush and abrasive wheels. Trim removal tool. A few pieces 2x4 and a hydraulic bottle jack.
2. All bolts can be accessed without removing seats or seatbelts. Front row remove the door sill and kick panel plastics. Fold back the forward outer corner carpet to remove the rubber cover and find the bolt. Second row remove the door sill plastic, lift up the carpet and reach under to access the bolt. Slide a 2x4 under the carpet to make a tent under which you can swing the wrench. Cargo compartment remove the rear hatch sill, two bolts to remove plastic around seat belt anchor, and fold back carpet. Remove one side of the plastic cover on the frame adjacent to the rear wheel and swing it out of the way.
3. The body mounts are changed first one side then the other, e.g. all 5 passenger side then all 5 driver side. Remove all the body mount bolts. Use extensions as needed to raise the wrench handle up over the carpet for a comfortable swing. Spray penetrating oil down where you removed the bolt; it will help the top and bottom halves separate if there's corrosion. Replace all the bolts on one side, just 5 turns in to engage threads, to keep the body aligned while you jack up and replace the other side. Note: The bottom hardware nests into a six sided recess on the top hardware. The weight of the body on the top half holds the assembly tight while the bolt is removed. If it starts spinning have an assistant jam the bottom rubber against the frame with the pry bar so the bolt can be turned out.
4. Remove the bottom half of the body mount. If it doesn't come loose, thread the bolt in a few turns and whack it with a hammer. The bottom half should drop loose, remove the bolt and the bottom half will be free.
5. Jack up the body nearest the mount you want to replace. Use 2x4 to extend the jack and spread the pressure against the under body. Remove the upper half of the body mount. Be careful putting your hands/ fingers between the body and frame; if the jack fails you could get pinched.
6. You will reuse the bolts, and upper and lower metal bits from the old body mounts. Slide the rubber off the upper half. Cut the rubber away from the lower half and remove the rubber. Note: The upper metal was flared on several of the old body mounts, I needed to grind away the flare to slide the rubber off and slide the new body mount onto it. The lower metal was corroded on a few and I used the wire brush to clean it.
7. Install the new mounts on the corresponding metal bits. It's well depicted in the energy suspension instructions. Place the upper mount half between the frame and body, aligning with the oval hole and lower the jack. Install the lower half, and install the bolt a few turns in with anti-seize on the threads.
8. Work your way around the body; when you're done with one side, remove all the bolts from the remaining side. Continue until all the new mounts are installed, and tighten bolts to 59 ft lb. Go back around again and re-torque to take up any settling as the body it tightened against the frame. I'm not sure if it matters the order but I just worked side to side, front to rear.
9. Tuck the carpet back into place and install the interior plastics. You're done! It took me about 7 hours working a few hours each night, since it's quite hot here in Phoenix during the day.
10. During my research I learned some polyurethane bushings squeak. I considered lubricating mine with silicone grease, but decided in the end to install them dry. They're not a moving part like control arm bushings, etc. If they squeak in the future, I'll loosen the bolt then re-torque. Apparently this worked for others, reading other car forums.
11. The body sits a little higher now, maybe an inch; I think the old mounts settled considerably, they were dry rotted, plus the new poly mounts seem to compress less.
Any questions feel free to contact me. Sorry I didn't take pictures, it was night, still 103 degrees F at 10pm, and a pretty sweaty filthy job overall.
You can search "1999-2003 Ford F250 Super Duty Body Mount Dorman" for an image of a similar disassembled body mount, to see the six sided upper and lower metal bits if you want to visualize my notes above. The lower nests into the upper half. Couldn't find any good pics of Expedition body mounts; the F250 are similar.
Regards, Jim
