Camshaft replacement due to scoring

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Underdog66

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2017
Posts
47
Reaction score
13
Location
Michigan
I'm working on a complete timing job on an 2005 Expedition 5.4l 3v engine. I've been following FordTechMakuLoco's video series. I removed the cam and followers today. Upon inspection and cleaning I noticed some scoring in the shaft of the cam assembly that resides under the cam towers. I watched Brian's videos several times on this topic, as well as related repair videos. He usually points out if something is normal or abnormal wear. He also generally indicates if a part should be replaced or if the wear is normal. Does the camshaft HAVE to be replaced or can t be left as is or polished?

IMG_20210907_160700252.jpg
IMG_20210907_160704082.jpg
IMG_20210907_160712610.jpg
 

BMW2FORD

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
246
Reaction score
242
Location
CT
If you can catch your nail in the grooves pretty well then I don’t think polishing will help. Cutting that like a crankshaft sounds more like what’s needed but that’s going to thin that area and enlarge the clearance and lead to other problems so I’d say not to do that as well. If the head is OK and not scored, I’d replace the cam but also look into why that happened which could be from a lot of things. Did the engine have any oil pressure problems or sludge under the valve covers?
 
OP
OP
Underdog66

Underdog66

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2017
Posts
47
Reaction score
13
Location
Michigan
Can you feel any surface defect with your finger nail ? If not you can clean it up with some emery cloth. Is that the passenger side camshaft near cylinder 3 ?

Ford 5.4 3v Camshafts at Summit Racing



.
I have short finger nails, so I cannot really tell. That picture in the above post IS of the passenger side cam and its the space between the back lobs and the next one forward. Sorry I don't know which cylinder number it is. Why? Would that be a tell tale sign of something?

tester.jpg

The timing chain had been rubbing against the front cover and ate away some metal. I purchased the Expedition in this condition. The previous owner ignored the warning signs of the phasers/timing needing attention. I don't know how long the guide was broken. I had a friend who does auto repair look at the front cover damage. He said he would be concerned about where the metal went that was scraped off the cover. I showed him the cam and he stated, "well that's where all that metal went." He also said that it is 'possible' that some did similar damage to the main bearings and crankshaft?

As I stated, I've seen a number of videos on this procedure/repair, many with front covers that look like the one above. Not a single mention about where the metal might have ended up, nor that it should be a concern. Even Brian (aka FordTechMakuLoco) has a video with a cover that looks exactly like mine.

Anyway, I hate to put the camshaft back in if its going to cause issues. Conversely, I hate to spend a few hundred dollars more if the main bearing/crank shaft is just as damaged.

Thanks for the response.
 

BMW2FORD

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
246
Reaction score
242
Location
CT
Wow, sorry man. That’s a tough spot. For sure some of that metal did get to the mains and crank as well as all the other engine parts. My experience with overhead cam engines is it always hurts the cams most. I think you got to see what you want to do with the truck. If it’s in great shape and only the engine is a problem then maybe a reman or used good engine is best so you have a decent truck for a long time. If it’s beat up and not worth an engine than maybe clean the cam journal up a bit and put it back together and keep your fingers crossed. If you do put it back together as is, change the oil often and maybe step it up to a 40 weight oil to try to get the most you can out of it.
 

BMW2FORD

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 18, 2021
Posts
246
Reaction score
242
Location
CT
The other thing you could do to is pull the oil pan and a few main and rod caps to see how they look while your this far in to make a better decision. Some metal might still be in the pan to gauge what your in for. I kind of worry about not going more into that engine since there’s also a black coating of sludge on the back of the cover that to me means the oil wasn’t changed often enough which probably compounded all of this. Rebuilding your existing engine is another option too, just depends what you want to do with the truck and accessibility to a machine shop or a used or reman engine.
 

Hamfisted

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
2,593
Reaction score
1,474
Location
Ft Lauderdale
If the chain guides were broken up or pieces missing I would strongly recommend pulling the oil pan off and cleaning out the oil pickup tube screen. The number 3 cylinder cam area is always borderline oil starved on the early 3V motors. Especially using Ford's recommended 5w-20 oil. Throw in some lack of oil changes or use of cheap oil, and you have a recipe for cam damage. Run a razor blade over the cam area and see if you can feel anything. If you don't feel any gouging I would polish it up with emery cloth and use it again. Any aluminum off the timing cover would have to go through the oil filter to get to the mains or anything else, so I don't think you'll see damage their. Do use a high volume oil pump when you reassemble the motor though. As well as a good synthetic 10w-30 oil and Motorcraft filter. Put the new oil pump on while you have the oil pan off. It's much easier to get to the pickup tube / oil pump bolts.
 

JExpedition07

That One Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2017
Posts
6,510
Reaction score
3,123
Location
New York
That pretty ugly, my front cover had the slightest start of a nick when I went in with no plastic missing yet. Cams were smooth as silk. This is scary. I’d see if you can get new cam caps maybe.
 
OP
OP
Underdog66

Underdog66

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2017
Posts
47
Reaction score
13
Location
Michigan
Thank you all for the input. The truck is in decent shape for an 05. The previous owner replaced the rocker panels, since we live in Michigan. The design of those is poor as far as a way for water and salt to escape. Every one I've ever owned gets clogged with mud and the salty water just sits there. That repair alone cost him $2500. He also replaced many suspension parts as well as brakes and wheel hubs
I think I'm going to 'risk it' as far as any other repairs at this time. I'll clean up the scoring and reuse the camshaft. I did replace the oil pump without removing the pan. I tend to think as someone pointed out that most of the metal shavings would have gotten filtered out. Digging into it further by removing the oil pan doesn't make sense to me. If I remove some of the main and rod caps to see how they look and they look bad, I'd feel as if I had to replace the engine. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but IF the engines goes a later point then I would consider a crate/reman engine. I'm already $1100 into it and 10 labor hours. In my opinion it isn't prudent to invest anymore into an engine that I could just replace for a couple thousand more.

I flushed the pan with kerosene and used an inspection camera to check for any residue. I also poured the kerosene into the oil pickup tube from the top while I had the oil pump off. I did replace the pump with a Meling high volume pump as suggested. It wasn't easy to remove and replace the pick up bolts, but with a little patience, instruction from FordTechMakuLoco, and the right tools I did it!

The previous owner had already been using 5w-30 full synthetic instead of the recommended 5w-20. I will continue to use 5w-30. I plan on changing the oil and filter early in case the flushing with kerosene didn't clean it up 100%.

Thanks for the advice eveyone.
 

Hamfisted

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
2,593
Reaction score
1,474
Location
Ft Lauderdale
Were your timing chain guides still 100% intact ? If they broke up or pieces of plastic are missing from them I would still pull the oil pan and physically remove the broken plastic pieces from the pan and oil pickup tube screen. That stuff gets jammed up in that oil intake. If you can account for all of the guide pieces then you should be good to go.
 
Top