CDF around 3

[bocabimmer]

Just got word my transmission is toast again. It’s already been rebuilt twice within 1.5 years and 20k miles. My dealer is recommending to Ford to swap for a new transmission but said it’s at Ford’s discretion.

At this point it feels like the definition of insanity to rebuild this one again. Has anyone had any success in convincing them to do replace it?

Anyone also know if the parts warranty resets after each subsequent repair?

Just want to know what I’m talking about before talking with them again. Thanks!

 

[BMW2FORD]

I had no success. Broke down 1250 miles from home and the local dealer there had no one 10 speed certified so all they could do was replace the unit which was at that time $3500 over the counter price. I argued with Ford customer support and sent them screenshots of the price of the trans and stressed I’d make my way back to the truck on my own if they replaced the trans but it all fell of deaf ears. Ford paid to tow the car to my local dealer which cost $1250 and they rebuilt it. At a quick run of the part numbers on the repair order and no labor since I don’t know their warranty labor rate, the cost was around $6k. Talk about insanity!

 

[Bmac1955]

What year and model was the Expedition and mileage?

 

[Bmac1955]

The reason of concern was I had mine overhauled, 2020 xlt in June of 2025. I had 45k on it. I have Ford Protect which covered the repair with a $100 deductible. Shifting from lower range was all over the place. The ohaul ended that query.

 

[bocabimmer]

The reason of concern was I had mine overhauled, 2020 xlt in June of 2025. I had 45k on it. I have Ford Protect which covered the repair with a $100 deductible. Shifting from lower range was all over the place. The ohaul ended that query.

It’s a 2021. My first rebuild was 8/24 with 81k, second rebuild was 11/24 with 84k. I took it back to them a few months back ~90k and they couldn’t replicate the issue (it was definitely there). Now they found it again at 100k.

 

[BMW2FORD]

I have a 2018 and the CDF drum failed at 70k. They replaced it with the un updated drum since at that time it wasn’t available. Torque converter, outer shell, valve body, seals, and the main oil pump was also replaced with that rebuild. Now with 80k, it won’t shift to 5th when cold and is starting to slam 6th.

 

[Kevin Baird]

My 2020 limited transmission went out at 88K miles a few days ago. It was not happy when very cold and required a good warm up. Harsh shift into 5th gear but once warm shifted fine. recently when very cold )F and drove off after a just two minutes of warm up it went gear hunting with trying to accelerate at low speed. Again once warmed up it back to shifting fine. The failure: after pulling a steep long mountain at full speed (no hauling) the temp was holding 200F after cresting the mountain on the way down the temp started climbing to 128F, once at the bottom and accelerating it started gear searching with power issues. pulled off and at a long light put it in neutral and watched the temp come down. from that point it drove fine and changed gears normally for another 6 miles until I parked it at a transmission shop. Once I pulled off and checked underneath, it was damp with transmission fluid so a certain amount of fluid leaked out. color was good as I changed it at 50K miles and was ready to change it again at the next service. At this point I don't have a full diagnosis (leaking fitting? hose? or blown transmission?) figuring it is the latter. Planning to put a new Ford OEM transmission as there is little difference in the cost of a remanufactured one.

 

[Bmac1955]

I hope it has ALL updated parts and no issues. What is the time frame for warranty? Is it 3yrs 36k for mileage? Good luck with the new Trans. Going with new is a much better way going forward. No pun intended.

 

[DieselMonk]

With all this being said above, we were not able to brake the 10 speed in a 18 F150, a 19 Ranger, a 24 Expedition SPP and a 25 Explorer. Knock on wood. Heat kills any Engine and transmission IMHO.
Pretty much same as the transmission has a lifetime oil filling claim of certain car manufacturers. Every oil degrades with heat and time.
Heck, when I was towing really hard at max weight and a tune, I had to change the oil at 15k miles on an Allison. The oil smelled burnt.
But so far, I couldn’t kill the 10 speed with my “spirited” driving.

 

[Kevin Baird]

Update: The full diagnosis show that the lines on transmission to the cooler were broken. Been driving in heavy snow/ice/sub-zero temps and evidently there was a snow and ice accumulation or road debris that contributed to the lines cracking at the transmission. Fluid in the pan was dark and burned which surprises me as I got the vehicle parked within 8 miles of the issue with what I saw as only limited slipping/gear hunting. I have decided to go ahead and replace the transmission/cooler and lines as I dont want to risk the cheap route of just replacing the cooler and flushing out and waiting for the unknown considering the transmission has been showing some shifting issues when cold. Will do a new transmission and have the 36 month unlimited mileage warranty.

There is a flimsy shield under this 2020 limited Max stealth edition. I assume adding proper skid plates would help protect this area. any suggestions?

 

[BMW2FORD]

There’s a thread here called adding skid plates to a 2018 limited that has a lot of good info. I added the 2018 Raptor Trans skid plate which is not only metal and good protection but covers the catalytic converters as well. 100% easy bolt in with over the counter dealer parts.

 

[Roland A]

The reason of concern was I had mine overhauled, 2020 xlt in June of 2025. I had 45k on it. I have Ford Protect which covered the repair with a $100 deductible. Shifting from lower range was all over the place. The ohaul ended that query.

I had my 2020 rebuilt at 104,000k on it. All they kept was the housing, they replaced every part inside. The bill was $9700 (Ford Protect thank God), isn’t that about the same price as a new 10r80? It took about a month but she’s smooth as butter now.

 

[GixxerJasen]

Rebuilt at 50K with new CDF Drum and many many parts. Rebuilt again at 70K (CDF Drum bushing dislodged) with many many parts. My extended warranty runs out in August. I pretty much have till August to find a new vehicle. If it blows up between now and then I'll be pushing for a replacement instead of yet another rebuild, and then I might keep it for a while. Everything else on my Expedition is great, just that transmission.

More info here -> https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/transmission-rebuild-numero-dos.59427/

 

[Kevin Baird]

Got the new transmission, cooler and lines installed. Just over $9K and took 7 total days including a weekend. Drove it for 25 minutes in some stop and go traffic and 10 miles of highway. The new transmission heats up much slower and hit a max temp of 172 in 55 degree air temp. I will be interested to see what the temp does on a longer drive but looks like it is lower and slower. Shifted good no other differences noted. Looking under the car that shiney transmission looks really exposed to the road. I will be looking for some skid plate solutions. The light weight Juggernaut looks easy to install and sufficient for what I do.

 

[5280tunage]

My tranny was rebuilt at around 50k miles. failed 500 miles later on a mountain pass, spewing tranny fluid everywhere. the replaced the tranny the next week, although it took 4 weeks to get the tranny. at 67K mi now and just praying it lasts me another 50k.

 

[5280tunage]

Got the new transmission, cooler and lines installed. Just over $9K and took 7 total days including a weekend. Drove it for 25 minutes in some stop and go traffic and 10 miles of highway. The new transmission heats up much slower and hit a max temp of 172 in 55 degree air temp. I will be interested to see what the temp does on a longer drive but looks like it is lower and slower. Shifted good no other differences noted. Looking under the car that shiney transmission looks really exposed to the road. I will be looking for some skid plate solutions. The light weight Juggernaut looks easy to install and sufficient for what I do.

One thing I will tell you on this front, these things heat up super fast. About 6 months ago when I had to have the phasers done again, I had the dealer install my SPD 175degree thermostat. I had this thing sitting in my garage for 2 years, but never got around to replacing it, figured since the tech had to remove the whole assembly anyways, had them do it. Since then, my engine and tranny have definitely ran cooler. Had an interesting experience on a mountain pass a couple weeks ago, on the way up both got pretty close to 200 degrees, then literally once I crest the pass and started heading down, even with full engine breaking, it cooled down back to 170 ish, even dropping to 165 at on point within three for four minutes. crazy to me how much thermal variation these things have. So used to the V8's that take a while to go up or down.

 

[Calidad]

Given I’m likely in the same boat soon 19 with 90,000.

Like most car stuff I dig in and find the best fix I can especially when its a very well known issue with pretty much everyone facing the same issues.

The updated CDF and clutch housing updated parts are essentially the low hanging fruit problems. Yes they will eventually need doing total disassembly and reassembly required.

Labor is ultimately the highest cost to the whole problem.

As such “rebuilds” are not all created equal. Only replacing the cdf and housing especially at higher mileage is essentially just a really poorly done rebuild given labor cost.

With ALL electronically controlled AT’s the valve body is GOD! The flaws or wear factors that exacerbate valve body accuracy regarding management of fluid flows is the ultimate end game in all transmissions using valve bodies.

Excessive heat issues, excessive clutch wear and poor shifting issues are ALL tied to the transmission GOD called the valve body. The only positive is it can be removed and replaced with the transmission in the vehicle. It sits right behind the transmission pan easily accessible.

The quality of the valving materials used are directly related to the durability and longevity characteristics of the entire transmission. This is no different for all the valve body style transmissions. Not counting other internal parts design issues that might exist etc.

If I were doing a warranty rebuild?
All the updated parts get replaced in addition to the pumps, clutch plates and valve body. That would be a full and proper “rebuild”. Labor is your biggest cost!

If I were doing a non warranty rebuild? I would do all the above except either replace the valve body with s built one or rebuild the valve body with built valving designed to address the known issues with the stock valve body.

I don’t have any personal experience with this company but I am aware that they are viewed as a reputable and good solution by builders who have used their products. If I face 10r issues out of warranty I will be using their products in a effort to gain reliability and lower my 10R costs regarding miles per problem

Ford 10R80 Valve Bodies

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[GixxerJasen]

Only replacing the cdf and housing especially at higher mileage is essentially just a really poorly done rebuild given labor cost.

If you have the old CDF, before the redesign, then it should be highest on your list. Original is faulty.

If I were doing a warranty rebuild?
All the updated parts get replaced in addition to the pumps, clutch plates and valve body. That would be a full and proper “rebuild”. Labor is your biggest cost!

Only get to do what the warranty company approves unfortunately. Granted, they probably should approve everything you list, because then they'd only have to pay out once most likely, instead of like me, paying for two rebuilds 25K miles apart. But they don't ask me for advice.

 

[Calidad]

If you have the old CDF, before the redesign, then it should be highest on your list. Original is faulty.


Only get to do what the warranty company approves unfortunately. Granted, they probably should approve everything you list, because then they'd only have to pay out once most likely, instead of like me, paying for two rebuilds 25K miles apart. But they don't ask me for advice.

You can negotiate with all dealers doing warranty work especially on big jobs where labor cost is the biggest factor. Yes the warranty may only cover labor and the cdf and housing parts but you can negotiate the reassembly using other new parts you purchase! In addition to this I highly recommend getting parts # and part pricing on the new parts your having them use!! They all mark up the parts in my case with my Phasers job 85% mark up on water pump, tensioners, guides and chains. I pushed back on their pricing two times!!! Cut $250 off the parts cost by pushing back on their markup BS!!!

Folks dealers are negotiable! If they aren’t? Be prepared to go elsewhere!

 

[GixxerJasen]

I thought you were talking about getting the warranty company to approve more work. Of course, paying for the rest yourself is negotiable.