CHT Error Misfires....

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creativemain

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Have not gotten any responses in powertrain section so ill try here.....

So i recently purchased a 1997 XLT 4.6L 4wd

The check engine light was on and was reading

-cylinder 3 misfire
-cylinder head overheating

Now a friend of mine basically told my that my motor was toast and i should replace the whole thing. Basically that there was nothing i could do. The motor does not leak at all but im not to savvy when it comes to motor and hes has been pretty knowledegable

I have done a bunch of searches and found nothing that says my motor is dead other than it MAY be a headgasket leak, but to change out the plug and coils and check the thermostat first.

Im not sure exactly how to take it.

Is he right or does my motor have a good chance of being a easy fix?

Thanks
 

mic_1011

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try to change the coil pack on cylinder 3 first. thats the cheapest and best route to take...also easy to do. then reset the code and drive it for a while. if the ce pops back up get it read again and see what that code is and if the misfire is gone. let us know how that works out and we'll take it from there. hope this helps and if you need instructions on the coil change let us know. they run front to back passenger side is 1234 and driver 5678
 
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creativemain

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well replaced both heat sensors today to no avail, pulled the #3 plug and its soaked in oil, coolant etc....

blown head gasket :(

Going to try KW block sealer tomorrow before coughin up cas for a new motor. Will post results
 

panda24619

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man that sux. but a blown head gasket is fixable. just put a new gasket on. well thats wht ive been told. not sure if thats right. watch going to get a lot of complaints from experts. but thats what ive been told.
 

Racenut

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well replaced both heat sensors today to no avail, pulled the #3 plug and its soaked in oil, coolant etc....

blown head gasket :(

Going to try KW block sealer tomorrow before coughin up cas for a new motor. Will post results

A head gasket is a lot easier and alot cheaper than a complete R&R of the motor. Using any type of block sealer makes it alot harder to clean the surfaces if you decide to do the head gasket, so I would recomend checking prices and how much you want to spend before you use any block sealer.

The head gasket set ( both head gaskets ) thru Oreilly depending on your VIN # is anywhere from $160 to $190 and that includes all the gaskets that you will need. It is not an easy job, but it is alot cheaper than a new motor when YOU MOST LIKELY DON'T NEED ONE!

You can rebuild the motor if you think it needs it and depending on milage, how it was running before this problem, and how much you are looking to spend.

The cheapiest will be the head gasket
Second would be junk yard R&R
Third would be Rebuild
and last would be the Reman with warenty

Even if you get a junk yard motor to save some cash you do not know the condition of that motor. They will usually give you a 30 day waranty but do not cover any labor charges if the motor ends up being bad.

If you rebuild it will be cheaper than a Reman, but to do it the right way you would need to spend a pretty good chunk at the machine shop to have the block checked and possibly head decks milled ( Because of overheating ) and have the heads gone thru.

If you decide to replace the motor the best but most expensive way to go would be with a REMANUFACTURED unit from Oreilly or Autozone. It will probably cost anywhere from $1800 to $2500 plus labor at a shop ( or do it your self and save the labor ) but at least it comes with a 3 year ( usually unlimited mile ) warenty

Hope some of this helps again it is kinda your choice on the way you want to go or the way you wallet will let you go, but I would try the headgasket set first. I would rather take the chance on a couple hundred dollar repair ( and have it work ) than instantly jump to a couple thousand dollar repair if it is not needed. And remember if you get into the motor and find out that there is something wrong internal, you can still go the R&R route and just return the gasket set. Just my .02

If you do decide to just replace the gaskets, I would recomend doing the timing chain while your at it since it will have to come off anyways but again it depends on what your wallet will alow.
 
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creativemain

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i appreciate it guys,

I could replace the head gaskets, which would mean dropping the motor out of the truck anyway, but if any of the heads are warped than that can lead to another issue. Will it be cheaper? Most definately, but with 138k on the motor as is i think id be happier just simply replacing it with a used motor or reman motor.

I let you know how things turn out
 

nvycrmn

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with only 138k on it, she's still just a baby! some of these guys are WELL over 200k miles on their expy. if nothing is wrong with the block itself, i would just go with the gaskets...but im cheap so there you have it! hahah
 

Racenut

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i appreciate it guys,

I could replace the head gaskets, which would mean dropping the motor out of the truck anyway, but if any of the heads are warped than that can lead to another issue. Will it be cheaper? Most definately, but with 138k on the motor as is i think id be happier just simply replacing it with a used motor or reman motor.

I let you know how things turn out

Well if you have the money and are set on swapping the motor, I would definatley go reman over used. At least that way you have a 0 mile motor with warranty and you know you wont have any surprises down the road.
 
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creativemain

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Well today was in interesting day...

Flushed the coolant system, 8 or 9 times. Per instruction on product. You have to get al the antifreeze out of the system until everything that come out is clear, no big deal got that done, just time consuming,

Then went to pour solution into the radiator and it seems that the product had set up HARD in the bottom of the can, so went back to the auto parts store to replace product.
The second bottle was the same, called up customer service and the girl was very helpful and told me that the product had a shelf life of only a few years and to switch out with a newer can since the can i had was made in 2005 ( the stamp on the bottom of the can, the first digit(s) was the year made.

So back at the auto store, ALL of the stores product was outdated! so they were able to get me a more expensive product made by the same maker (K&W block sealer w/ nanotechnology, green bottle 32oz).

With all that said and done got back and continued procedure, ran the car for a little over 1/2 hour, misfire has seemed to go away, although i did replace the plugs.....

Drained the coolant system again, opened up resevoir tank, removed drain plug and removed thermostat hose to let air dry overnight,

hoping for the best will post results...
 

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