Howdy Gang, 1st visit and look forwarding to any assistance. Vehicle 98 Ford Expedition 4x4 5.4L engine. While driving noticed a strong hesitation that progressed to engine roughness. I have inspected IAC and MAF, both appear clean. Wiring showing no wear and sealed. Codes showing are P0113 and P0102 per my scanner. Performed a tuneup replacing Motorcraft plugs and fixing two vaccum leaks along with fuel filter. Elbow to the rear of intake was good with no cracks. Engine roughness present upon startup and worse with AC turn on. Acceleration horrible. Will my next step be possibly fuel injectors and or coils, since I have never replaced ? I enjoy fixing my own equipment , but, not a professional. Don't want to waste money on parts not required. Talk to me I am ready to listen. Thx gang
Codes P0113/P0102
- Thread starter Tim Clark
- Start date
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FordandPolaris
Full Access Members
Well both of those codes relate to intake air temp and MAF readings. Have you cleaned the MAF to see if that makes a difference?
Rosin
Member
I guess the most likely culprit is the MAF sensor. See if you can find a way to test it. If your ECM doesn't know how much air is getting into the engine, it doesn't know how much fuel to inject for an ideal mixture.
P 0113 is IAT voltage HIGH. Here is the description...
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
The P 0102 is MAF voltage LOW. Here is the description...
OBD II Code P0102
Because many of you are in the same situation, and all this diagnostic stuff can be Greek to you, let me give you a quick rundown... Hot parts and moving parts fail first. Next, those that get dirty will fail. Now, this is just an example, but these codes are there for a reason, and that reason is to avoid "throwing parts" at a problem or looking at inputs (Sensors) or outputs (Injectors or EGR or EVAP emission controls) that are not relevant to your problem. They are the starting point for a diagnostic routine. Just the first step. You already verified the complaint, so checking for vacuum leaks is the first step in ALL diagnostic routines. Good work there!
Now, think about this. What do the IAT and the MAF have in common? They both are exposed to inlet air (Often the air filter does not catch all contaminates). With that said, your most likely cause is dirt and carbon contaminating the sensors.
This part is VERY IMPORTANT, so I am using CAPS for emphasis, not yelling. It is just my writing style. There are certain things you can and cannot do in this situation. First things first. One is forget about carburetor cleaner (It is for carburetors). Next, forget about brake cleaner (It is for brakes). We are going to take the path of lowest cost first. Consider the MAF and the IAT to be sensitive electronic components because they are.
You will need MASS AIR SENSOR cleaner and Electrical Circuit Board cleaner (You may need to go to Radio Shack for this). And while you are at it, get some Throttle Body cleaner too. Start by removing the connectors and hitting them with the electrical component cleaner and blow dry or let dry completely.
Before you replace ANYthing, clean these two sensors. You will need to hose the sensors down and the stuff will evaporate. This means open the air box and spray into the MAF itself and you will see it work. Then the IAT will pull out of the inlet duct, it is a tolerance fit. Spray it liberally and you should see the element turn red again, this tells you it was dirty. Then remove the duct from the TB, and spray liberally. Open the throttle and spray the entire blade and housing. Also spray the passages to the IAC and then remove the IAC itself and spray it liberally (The TB cleaner will clean and lubricate). Let everything dry before you start it. By the time you reinstall everything, you will be good. TB cleaner is IMPERATIVE because there is a deposit resistant coating on the TB blade and on the housing where the blade seals against the housing. Harsh cleaners will remove this coating and you will have more problems. Spray liberally and do not use a brush. It does the job and lubricates the TB as well.
Then use the scan tool to clear the codes and drive it until the drive cycle completes (This is a process the PCM goes through to test all circuits and tell you everything is OK). IF the light comes back on, most likely you will need to replace the MAF and IAT but I do not believe you will.
The dreaded drive cycle. It is irrelevant in your case, just drive it until you know the light is not going to come back on. In the dealer, we had to duplicate this for the PCM to give you a P1000 code (All clear) before returning it to the customer (Not that we had to but RARELY, and on problem children).
Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle (For informational purpose only).
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
The P 0102 is MAF voltage LOW. Here is the description...
OBD II Code P0102
Because many of you are in the same situation, and all this diagnostic stuff can be Greek to you, let me give you a quick rundown... Hot parts and moving parts fail first. Next, those that get dirty will fail. Now, this is just an example, but these codes are there for a reason, and that reason is to avoid "throwing parts" at a problem or looking at inputs (Sensors) or outputs (Injectors or EGR or EVAP emission controls) that are not relevant to your problem. They are the starting point for a diagnostic routine. Just the first step. You already verified the complaint, so checking for vacuum leaks is the first step in ALL diagnostic routines. Good work there!
Now, think about this. What do the IAT and the MAF have in common? They both are exposed to inlet air (Often the air filter does not catch all contaminates). With that said, your most likely cause is dirt and carbon contaminating the sensors.
This part is VERY IMPORTANT, so I am using CAPS for emphasis, not yelling. It is just my writing style. There are certain things you can and cannot do in this situation. First things first. One is forget about carburetor cleaner (It is for carburetors). Next, forget about brake cleaner (It is for brakes). We are going to take the path of lowest cost first. Consider the MAF and the IAT to be sensitive electronic components because they are.
You will need MASS AIR SENSOR cleaner and Electrical Circuit Board cleaner (You may need to go to Radio Shack for this). And while you are at it, get some Throttle Body cleaner too. Start by removing the connectors and hitting them with the electrical component cleaner and blow dry or let dry completely.
Before you replace ANYthing, clean these two sensors. You will need to hose the sensors down and the stuff will evaporate. This means open the air box and spray into the MAF itself and you will see it work. Then the IAT will pull out of the inlet duct, it is a tolerance fit. Spray it liberally and you should see the element turn red again, this tells you it was dirty. Then remove the duct from the TB, and spray liberally. Open the throttle and spray the entire blade and housing. Also spray the passages to the IAC and then remove the IAC itself and spray it liberally (The TB cleaner will clean and lubricate). Let everything dry before you start it. By the time you reinstall everything, you will be good. TB cleaner is IMPERATIVE because there is a deposit resistant coating on the TB blade and on the housing where the blade seals against the housing. Harsh cleaners will remove this coating and you will have more problems. Spray liberally and do not use a brush. It does the job and lubricates the TB as well.
Then use the scan tool to clear the codes and drive it until the drive cycle completes (This is a process the PCM goes through to test all circuits and tell you everything is OK). IF the light comes back on, most likely you will need to replace the MAF and IAT but I do not believe you will.
The dreaded drive cycle. It is irrelevant in your case, just drive it until you know the light is not going to come back on. In the dealer, we had to duplicate this for the PCM to give you a P1000 code (All clear) before returning it to the customer (Not that we had to but RARELY, and on problem children).
Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle (For informational purpose only).
alleyrunner
New Member
thank you for your complete and concise advice. fixing to apply to 02 Ranger 3.0...
alleyrunner
alleyrunner
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