Coolant Outlet Tube

[Trainmaster]

I just tried opening my bootleg 2000 Ford factory disk and it didn't work any more. It probably knew I junked my 2000, so I can't tell you the Ford part number of the sealer they recommend.

When I said "silicone", I meant the stuff you described - the "form-a-gasket" which is usually used for thermostats. Don't know if you need high temperature stuff, since there's water running through it. Red or Blue, just find a good name brand and it should do the job fine.

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

I just tried opening my bootleg 2000 Ford factory disk and it didn't work any more. It probably knew I junked my 2000, so I can't tell you the Ford part number of the sealer they recommend.

When I said "silicone", I meant the stuff you described - the "form-a-gasket" which is usually used for thermostats. Don't know if you need high temperature stuff, since there's water running through it. Red or Blue, just find a good name brand and it should do the job fine.

Thank you for your time and wisdom!

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

I was only expecting my new starter to show up from MMR but, to my surprise, my coolant outlet tube and actuators arrived with the starter two days early! The tube was $16, the shipping was $8. If my total was $25 or more, the shipping was free! So, instead of paying $8 for shipping, I got this much need actuators from MaxPow for $10 and got a part instead of wasting the money paying shipping. But, that's not all folks! Since I worked my ass off to fix my credit--I only ended up paying $1.90 for everything because I earned rewards points using my Amazon credit card to buy my truck parts! Brilliant financing, right? I can't wait to try to start the truck again I sure hope it will start. 24 hours to wait while letting the hi-temp silicone gasket maker cure on the coolant outlet tube after it's installed. Then, one more day of putting the truck back together so I can start it! Thanks to my brother Ivan Johnson and his friend at Moody (something) I should have my custom radiator shroud welded and back to me by Friday-Monday! So, one more day to reinstall the fans, wire them in and button up the last few things and I should be on the road again! Oh, still have to tackle my brake problem. Then, it's time to start the body work. Once the body work is done I'll tackle a body lift to get the engine further away from the firewall to allow clearance to the coils/plugs at cylinders 3, 4, 7 & 8. And, I'll spray a protective coating on the frame while the body is disconnected. After this, there's nothing left except for dress-up in the engine bay, suspension lift and some sort of badass cargo/roofrack, rock-ready bumpers with winches. Other than the remaining performance mods in the block and heads... Okay, that's it

 

[Trainmaster]

Good goin' Shaun! Don't monkey-hammer this one!

 

[Shaun M Johnson]

Good goin' Shaun! Don't monkey-hammer this one!

I was going to report your comment but there wasn't an option for "being a hater" just kidding. I'm going to use my o2 sensor socket or a 3/4 copper pipe with the appropriate fittings.

 

[Eugenia Bermudez]

Got my expedition back from the shop where they replaced the fuel pump. Ran good for a few miles then started loosing power and running like crap, worse than before. Took the advice to have the alternator and battery checked except that i just took out the battery and removed the alternator to them both down to auto parts shop and replaced. Runs strong now but now there's a coolant leak somewhere because i can hear it sizzling after i turn it off. So now Ill check hoses to heater core, heater bypass tube and the tube that runs beneath the manifold. If its visible. I love my Ford Expedition! I'm not giving up on it yet!

 

[Hamfisted]

Throw the heater pipe in the freezer overnight just before you go to install it in the intake to shrink it a little before punching it into the intake.

 

[riphip]

Throw the heater pipe in the freezer overnight just before you go to install it in the intake to shrink it a little before punching it into the intake.

If that doesn't get cold enough, go to store (I have Kroger here) & purchase a small block of 'dry ice' (solidified CO2). Will set you back about $2.50-$5 for minimum block. That will shrink it quicker.