Cruise Control Recall

[Keydo]

http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/06/16/ford.vehicles/

http://www.cnn.com/2005/US/06/16/ford.vehicle.faq/?section=cnn_latest

Ford cruise control switch FAQ

Friday, June 17, 2005 Posted: 3:54 AM EDT (0754 GMT)

(CNN) -- Below are details on the Ford vehicles with the cruise control deactivation switch that have been recalled and steps you can take if you are worried about your vehicle catching fire.

What should you do if your vehicle has been recalled?

Ford has recalled more than 1 million vehicles in two recalls to replace the switch. The first recall was in May 1999, affecting 279,000 Ford Crown Victorias, Mercury Grand Marquis and Lincoln Town Cars for model years 1992 and 1993. The second, issued in January 2005, affected 792,000 vehicles, including model year 2001 F-Series SuperCrews, 2000 Ford Expeditions and Lincoln Navigators, and 2000 F-150 trucks. If you own one of these vehicles, you should contact your local dealership to disconnect and replace the cruise-control deactivation switch free of charge.

What vehicles have not been recalled?

A Ford document obtained by CNN shows the same or similar switch was installed in a total of 16 million vehicles. Those vehicles include:

# Lincoln Mark VII/VIII from 1994-1998

# Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable and Taurus SHO 2.3 L 1993-1995

# Ford Econoline 1992-2003

# Ford F-Series 1993-2003

# Ford Windstar 1994-2003

# Ford Explorer without IVD 1995-2003

# Ford Explorer Sport/Sport Trac 2002-2003

# Ford Expedition 1997-2003

# Ford Ranger 1995-2003

What should I do if I'm concerned about my nonrecalled vehicle catching fire?

If your vehicle has NOT been recalled, safety experts say you can take your vehicle to your local Ford dealership and have the cruise-control switch disconnected at your expense. At the very least, experts consulted by CNN suggest that you park your vehicle away from your house.



So, it looks those of us who have the cruise-control switch are out of luck unless your model year happens to be year 2000.

Anyone disconnect the cruise control switch by themselves?

 

[Keydo]

Here is a post by Dexter explaining how it works.

http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17633&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30

Here's what I know about the system: The switch being recalled is the redundant brake pedal position switch (it's a pressure switch). The speed control on newer trucks controls throttle plate using an electric motor that pulls the throttle cable. Older systems used vacuum to move the cable. The older systems used both the brake lamp signal from your tail lights AND a vacuum dump valve to disengage the speed control when you stepped on the brakes. Redundant for safety. Since the newer systems use electric instead of vacuum, the vacuum dump valve is not there for redundancy. What they did was continue to use the brake lamp 'on' signal as one input and use a new, brake PRESSURE switch as the second, back-up signal. If either switch fails to send a signal, then the speed control does not engage. The brake pedal on/off switch (the BOO switch) is mounted up under the dash at the top of the brake pedal assembly. That is not what is being recalled. The brake pedal PRESSURE switch is the one out on the end of the master cylinder. That is what I believe is being recalled.

Every time you step on the brake pedal with any significant amount of force, the brake pedal switch under the dash sends 12V to the speed control module and the brake pressure switch removes its 12V from the speed control module. Both are signals that flip flop from each other. Apparently that pressure switch has bad contacts or something and is arcing and carboning up over time. This arcing and carbon tracking is causing a high resistance short that gets really hot at some point of no return, and burns your truck to the ground.

 

[Keydo]

UGH - Finally got around to disconnecting the cruise control switch.

It's easy enough on any pre-2003 vehicle (as far as Expeditions go) because the switch is located on top of the brake master cylinder and unplugs very easily.

On 2003 and beyond, the switch is located underneath and difficult to get to unless you're good at contorting your arm or you take apart the air filter assembly.

The switch is removed via a tab. The tab is facing the firewall, so you'll need to feel for it. It's closest to the wiring (away from the cylinder and closer to the ground if that makes any sense).

Once you find the tab, you need to depress it and pull downward.

The air filter is in the way and I didn't bother removing it and basically kept contorting my arm about every other evening until it finally came undone today.

 

[Keydo]

Finally got around to driving the truck.

When I disconnected the "supposed" cruise control switch, it looks like I disconnected the AdvancTrac instead.

Upon starting the vehicle, I'm immediately greated with Check AdvancTrac and the little light comes on indicating that AdvancTrac is off.

I engage cruise control and I'm still able to turn cruise control on and maintain a speed.

So, it looks like the switch directly underneath is the brake master cylinder IS NOT the cruise control switch.

I guess I'll reconnect the switch and pull the fuse for the cruise control at this point.

This is a Ford 2003 EB EXPY

 

[Maryland Eddie]

Can someone send me a link to this story. I have just purchased my eddie '03 , and I have not heard about this. Disconnecting the switch is the only option? I love my cruise.

 

[pos2nat]

Originally posted by Keydo
UGH - Finally got around to disconnecting the cruise control switch.

It's easy enough on any pre-2003 vehicle (as far as Expeditions go) because the switch is located on top of the brake master cylinder and unplugs very easily.

On 2003 and beyond, the switch is located underneath and difficult to get to unless you're good at contorting your arm or you take apart the air filter assembly.

The switch is removed via a tab. The tab is facing the firewall, so you'll need to feel for it. It's closest to the wiring (away from the cylinder and closer to the ground if that makes any sense).

Once you find the tab, you need to depress it and pull downward.

The air filter is in the way and I didn't bother removing it and basically kept contorting my arm about every other evening until it finally came undone today.

On the 2000, the switch is located at the radiator end of the brake master cylinder reservoir, not underneath. Any Ford dealership will unplug it for no charge. They will also replace it for no charge if your model is on the recall list. I don't recommend anyone starting to unplug connections on or around their brake master cylinder unless they are familiar with the connections.

 

[Dana]

Cruise control switch deactivation

I just deactivated the switch 5 minutes ago. Real simple. On my 1998 Expedition XLT, the switch is on top of the brake cylinder right next to the brake fluid reservoir. (On driver side, up near the windshield) Simply pull the switch out and deactivate. Talked to the guy at local dealership and he said that the explosions only happen when car is parked. Also said that even though the it's the same switch since 1992, that there have been different manufacturers of the switch. (He didn't say since when, though.)

Also asked him about plugging switch back in for use for a road trip. He said yes and just unplug when you get to where you are going and all should be well. Really, really easy to unplug.

Hope this helps alleviate some worries...

 

[James W Moore]

I have a 2004 Expedition Eddie Bauer. Mine has the updated brake master cylinder with the switch built into the brake master cylinder reservoir (built into the top of the plastic unit checked continuity in this switch first and got reading: checked harness for power with key off nothing, with "key on" the brake light warning light came on and have power to harness) Mine has THE issue with cruise control "not working" at all no lights, no power. Checked fuses: ok , my control module is not vac operated and the plug does not have 10 connections to check it has 5. I checked the cable to throttle body and connections are good (nothing popped out or broken, cable is solid not frayed). I ordered the new button switches for the steering wheel (most stores were expensive but I ordered from a junk yard, they check with Ohm meter before sending and was only $25) I am waiting for help to arrive so I can check ohms from plug at speed controller as my wires for my tester are very short. I had also sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the switches the day before to clean the switches with no change. Still no power to cruise control.