BlackCoffee
Full Access Members
$400 Seems like a lot of money, but break it down. Around 14 quarts of fluid, retail about $80, dealer prices around $120. Then you probably got at least an hour labor for another $100. If they throw in a filter, dealer price is around $40. Definitely expensive, but if you did it yourself, dropping the pan, replacing the filter, and disposing of the fluid- you would invest around $125 to $150 and your own labor.
Now, is it worth it. Probably not. What kills the lubricating properties is moisture absorption, heat, and particulate build up from the friction material (usually heat contributes to this as well). Most old school guys would change on any discoloration or as preventative around 100K mileage. Since moisture absorption is more time based, I know some that change every 2 or 3 years if there is no discoloration.
However, as with an engine, lubrication and heat removal are important. If you want to implement a preventative MX approach for replacing these fluids, pick a time frame and cost point and stick to it. It will help. You can definitely tell when you open an engine or transmission the positive results of good oil or ATF. Less wear and cleaner, and less heat damage.
Now, is it worth it. Probably not. What kills the lubricating properties is moisture absorption, heat, and particulate build up from the friction material (usually heat contributes to this as well). Most old school guys would change on any discoloration or as preventative around 100K mileage. Since moisture absorption is more time based, I know some that change every 2 or 3 years if there is no discoloration.
However, as with an engine, lubrication and heat removal are important. If you want to implement a preventative MX approach for replacing these fluids, pick a time frame and cost point and stick to it. It will help. You can definitely tell when you open an engine or transmission the positive results of good oil or ATF. Less wear and cleaner, and less heat damage.