End My Oil Crisis

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the bus

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I wish I could find good aftermarket suspension parts that aren't OEM. Used to buy Moog, but they've gone Chinese and the last two parts from them were junk.

Otherwise, the chain parts stores carry Auto-Max, Car-Quest, Driveworks.... all import garbage that will hardly give 10K miles. Or I can go on-line and get Mega-Dragon.

Help!
 

the bus

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Yeah I was in the same boat and my go to was Moog. With their lack of respect to details I ended up with some mevotech parts. Mevotech has the cheap through higher quality parts. Hard to tell the quality since I have not used them longer enough to tell. I have mevotech upper control arms and sway bars links on early 2004 expedition. The lower arm is Moog. Moog did not have the correct upper arm and would not acknowledge build dates. Called their tech support and not much help either. It did get their attention that the OEM parts did build dates. Spent lots of time in getting the right parts. And then the alignment became the next hurdle. So in short bolt them up to the witness marks so alignment is easier I guess. I like to have the weight on the arms so the bushing are in their home location.
 

bnicov

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Seafoam the engine. My '06 was bring a litre every 1500km or so (1000 miles). I also added Restore engine treatment to the oil. It's now time for the next oil change and it has not burned a drop. Oil control rings get plugged up, sometimes they need a little help to get the juices flowing again. I also ran Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel for a couple of tanks. She's getting pretty rotted now and will be heading to the bone yard but I've gotten great service from her over the almost 4 years I had her .
 

Maxie Wildes

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Do a compression test. Sounds like you may have a weak cyl. At high RPM's, if pressure passes by the Piston rings (blow by), it will then push oil up to the crankcase vent and then to the intake where it is burned in the combustion Chambers. You won't see the smoke because it is Burt in the cataletic converter, then at the lower RPM'S, there is not enough blow by to push the oil, until it gets really bad.

Just a thought.
 

JExpedition07

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At 330,000 miles some cylinders aren’t as strong as others that’s a given. I’d think it’s not even worth it to compression test it we already know she’s old and firing on 7 (lol).

Just milk the engine as far as it’ll go, you got some good suggestions here to alleviate the consumption.
 

Machete

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At 330,000 miles some cylinders aren’t as strong as others that’s a given. I’d think it’s not even worth it to compression test it we already know she’s old and firing on 7 (lol).

Just milk the engine as far as it’ll go, you got some good suggestions here to alleviate the consumption.

If and when I get from current 191k to 330k I will probably move to a 10-40wt synthetic...to fill in the gaps! LOL
 

1955moose

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Could you imagine 30 years back getting 300k out of a American V8 engine? Back then, if you past 100k with nothing major going south, you considered yourself lucky. The only vehicles that got 300k were Toyota's and Datsun's. If you had the money, a Mercedes, but not the 4 cylinders. Chevy's and Ford's started getting wonky around 125-150 k. That's just the way it was, and you knew it.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

TobyU

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Seafoam the engine. My '06 was bring a litre every 1500km or so (1000 miles). I also added Restore engine treatment to the oil. It's now time for the next oil change and it has not burned a drop. Oil control rings get plugged up, sometimes they need a little help to get the juices flowing again. I also ran Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel for a couple of tanks. She's getting pretty rotted now and will be heading to the bone yard but I've gotten great service from her over the almost 4 years I had her .

Check my post #27. I haven't heard of these gumming up oil rings but some cars really do and this will help almost unbelievably.
Restore is the ONLY snake oil treatment I have seen really work for oil. The motor honeys and lucas just make it so thick it of course leaks less. Restore is less than 30wt oil but works.
 

Machete

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Could you imagine 30 years back getting 300k out of a American V8 engine? Back then, if you past 100k with nothing major going south, you considered yourself lucky. The only vehicles that got 300k were Toyota's and Datsun's. If you had the money, a Mercedes, but not the 4 cylinders. Chevy's and Ford's started getting wonky around 125-150 k. That's just the way it was, and you knew it.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

Yeah but those 1970’s and 80’s rice burners would rust out before the engines seized. I owned a 1977
Datsun 280Z that just deteriorated from under me.
So I bought a Vega!
 

TobyU

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Yeah but those 1970’s and 80’s rice burners would rust out before the engines seized. I owned a 1977
Datsun 280Z that just deteriorated from under me.
So I bought a Vega!
Oh my! I think that was a downgrade even in the rust area...
 
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