Yeah I used Crutchfield wire diagram to wire subs and amp. I’m sure I got the strong end of the unicorn horn when I first started this. I bought the kenwood amp some time ago. It showed 1000w max when I got it. (Go easy, I’m nearing 47 years young) back in my day a 500w amp was 500w, there was no rms crap. This amp was 1000w max ar 2ohm. I had a 500w amp and 2 subs rated at 250w. The box was big enough to handle 2 speakers sized for 12” but held 10’s instead. And they were bandpass in the trunk of a car. That setup I could be heard 1 mile away in city traffic. Fast forward to rms. I used that same box on a set of “cant be blown” speakers and a kenwood amp that was rated at 1000w (me not up to date with rms standards of today and remembering what 500w did) I had lights flickering and sub par bass (the speakers dried out). Back to today, rms, big 3, caps and batteries are just bandaids to the real problem, not having a sealed enclosure (trunk) to move box around to find ultimate sound quality. I have learned the following
Ported=30hzs tuned only works if I want to do spl for comp. I’m old school and actually listen to music
Sealed=500w of speakers needs about 700w amp to push.
Doubled does nothing. My 8” sub is rated for 600worms/1200w max. My 12” subs are rated 250wrms/1000w max (wait, what. Meth teacher doing math?) How do I find 500wrms/2000w max amp to push, the math doesn’t add up.
Other issue I have. 4 gauge wire I bought with first amp is half the size of 4 gauge wire I bought now (been doing electrical 19 years) wire size doesn’t change.
Am I so stupid that 2x30 fuses on amp (10x100 gives amp rating rms) only gives 500wrms on 1000w max amp at 2ohms and that 250wrms speakers can handle handle 1000w?
Must be that new foreign math crap we didn’t learn in school. 2+2=4 unless I before E except after C.
Either way, 25’ prewired amp kit comes no where close to getting this kit installed.