eddytheexpy
Full Access Members
ok so I've wanted to upgrade my radio for a while and finally pulled the trigger after verifying I didn't nuke the engine while performing the timing job. I was weighing lots of pros and cons for various aftermarket setups. What I found was the usual, if you want it to be an easy install with good instructions while having expectations of a good outcome you just have to set your wallet on fire. I know some guys on here really lean into that sort of stuff but I tend to prioritize my mortgage over most things (that's why I own a 14 year old rig). So for those of you looking to reduce costs on this venture, search no further!
I purchased this radio: https://www.walmart.com/ip/9-Androi...7?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101189037
this reducer (story below): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200K1X4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
this dual usb port bezel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDWVB4T9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
all-in-all ~$200
to get this result:
absolutely worth the money! Also, with the extra port in the face plate and a little bit of help from a file, I was able to repurpose the left one for my light bar switch. I love how the top row of buttons are shifted downward separating the digital components from analogue. Also, its super easy to program the steering wheel buttons to this unit.
You need the 12v to 5v reducer because the wake up signal for the subs makes them thump every time you turn on the vehicle. After the reducer is wired in, it no longer thumps on start-up but they do thump when the radio is connected to the battery (i.e. plugging in the wire harness after splicing in the reducer). Aside from that, I never heard the pop again and verified the function of the subs. I HIGHLY recommend not throwing out your factory harness until this set-up is finalized. I threw mine out and a week later did the research to figure out that I needed the reducer. The new harness has different colored wires so if you go my route, you'll have to dig up the pin-outs of these obscure connectors and cross your fingers that you found the right documentation when you start splicing.
The only drawbacks from this set-up:
1) this HUD charges your phone incredibly poorly when using wired connection instead of bluetooth for car play (the drive from San Diego to Phoenix only added 2% of charge)
2) there is about a 1-2 second delay between media audio output from the commands on your phone. Oddly enough, that lag doesn't happen for hands-free phone calls so it's really not a big deal.
3) There is an unbelievable glare off the screen if the sun catches it right. I'm trying to decide on an anti-glare film at the moment so expect to need that if you don't enjoy being blinded.
Anyway, I haven't seen any cost effective aftermarket radio set-ups talked about on this forum so I figured I'd put this on display for other like minded people. Hope it helps some people make the decision to bring their rigs into the modern age!
I purchased this radio: https://www.walmart.com/ip/9-Androi...7?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101189037
this reducer (story below): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00200K1X4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
this dual usb port bezel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BDWVB4T9?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
all-in-all ~$200
to get this result:
absolutely worth the money! Also, with the extra port in the face plate and a little bit of help from a file, I was able to repurpose the left one for my light bar switch. I love how the top row of buttons are shifted downward separating the digital components from analogue. Also, its super easy to program the steering wheel buttons to this unit.
You need the 12v to 5v reducer because the wake up signal for the subs makes them thump every time you turn on the vehicle. After the reducer is wired in, it no longer thumps on start-up but they do thump when the radio is connected to the battery (i.e. plugging in the wire harness after splicing in the reducer). Aside from that, I never heard the pop again and verified the function of the subs. I HIGHLY recommend not throwing out your factory harness until this set-up is finalized. I threw mine out and a week later did the research to figure out that I needed the reducer. The new harness has different colored wires so if you go my route, you'll have to dig up the pin-outs of these obscure connectors and cross your fingers that you found the right documentation when you start splicing.
The only drawbacks from this set-up:
1) this HUD charges your phone incredibly poorly when using wired connection instead of bluetooth for car play (the drive from San Diego to Phoenix only added 2% of charge)
2) there is about a 1-2 second delay between media audio output from the commands on your phone. Oddly enough, that lag doesn't happen for hands-free phone calls so it's really not a big deal.
3) There is an unbelievable glare off the screen if the sun catches it right. I'm trying to decide on an anti-glare film at the moment so expect to need that if you don't enjoy being blinded.
Anyway, I haven't seen any cost effective aftermarket radio set-ups talked about on this forum so I figured I'd put this on display for other like minded people. Hope it helps some people make the decision to bring their rigs into the modern age!
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