Ford oil change mileage.

[Trainmaster]

Got a 2008 Expedition with 175,000 that never needed to be opened. But my V8 2010 Explorer broke chain guides at 80,000 miles. Both get Motorcraft oil when the indicator goes on.

 

[Roland A]

Is you vehicle short wheel base version without the heavy duty tow package?

Short wheel base 2 wheel drive

 

[Hellwig]

Short wheel base 2 wheel drive

After several rentals, I noticed the transmission of short wheelbase non tow package expeditions generally performed better than my private max with the tow package.

 

[Avian]

There’s a lot of fretting about this topic. Parse this forum and you’ll see the engine has little trouble other than phasers. I’ve not heard anything in person about an engine going completely down either. Most, or all, of the recommendations for charging early don’t have anything they are based on beyond that person feeling it necessary. I’m sure there are people out there that have blown up the 3.5, just like any engine. They don’t seem to post here and I haven’t seen a teardown thread where anything has been proven to be the fault of dirty oil.

Nonetheless, people have very hardened views and are not going to change their patterns based on anything posted. As for me, I’ll keep on changing when it’s convenient and not based on some set number or time other than not going over the monitor for warranty reasons. I’m waiting on the car that got 10k changes to blow up, especially now that it goes two years or more on oil and that’s suppose to be the death of it too. Or the 10 year old lawn mower to blow up that I still use that never even had the break in oil changed. Ever.

I really don't care what others do to their own cars. But I do care if their reasoning is subjective or based upon what Uncle Jake said at the 4th of July Bar-b-que.
Here are 2 very important facts that are just based upon good science and reasoning:
1) Here in Houston, Texas, we experience brutal weather year around, overall. The number one culprit, though, is fuel, not weather. Fuel boluses injected into a cold morning start up, causes dilution of the oil. There is no escape from that FACT.
Diluted oil cannot protect all of the surfaces inside of an engine with efficiency dropping quickly as each startup accumulates fuel in the oil.
2) Water. Yes, in humid climates, especially, moisture is drawn into the engine, and will condense in the oil and on internal surfaces after engine shutdown and cool off. A combination of water and fuel in the oil contaminates and undermines the oil. Then you have sulfuric acid, carbon contamination, and all of these things wind up being sludge and carbon deposits, more so as the additives in the oil break down from high temperatures.

I've professionally repaired, and driven cars and trucks for a half a century. The ONLY circumstances I've seen heavy sludge buildup and subsequent major costing failures in engines and emissions systems were/are when folks neglect more frequent oil changes, and they fail to use top-tier gasoline. Those are the ones I consistently see lose their cars with under 200,000 miles on them.

The people who are diligent and DO the oil changes at approximately 5-6 thousand miles and are religious about using top tier fuel NEVER have any major failures and routinely experience 350,000 to half a million miles on their vehicles. And they generally have great running cars that are cosmetically challenged, or they are ready to replace their 15 year old car.

With engine replacements nearing 20 grand on some of the more current cars, I'd rather "err" on the side of caution.
So, I change my own personal vehicles at 4 thousand to 6 thousand mile intervals. I drain and refill the coolant every 2-3 years, I replace the transmission fluid at 30,000 mile intervals. Brake fluid gets flushed at 3 years.
Uncle Jake and others' advice and stories of indestructible cars with one oil change in 75,000 miles. abound. They're urban legends that prey upon folks' desire to have their cake and eat it too.

 

[Dice Roll]

I really don't care what others do to their own cars. But I do care if their reasoning is subjective or based upon what Uncle Jake said at the 4th of July Bar-b-que.
Here are 2 very important facts that are just based upon good science and reasoning:
1) Here in Houston, Texas, we experience brutal weather year around, overall. The number one culprit, though, is fuel, not weather. Fuel boluses injected into a cold morning start up, causes dilution of the oil. There is no escape from that FACT.
Diluted oil cannot protect all of the surfaces inside of an engine with efficiency dropping quickly as each startup accumulates fuel in the oil.
2) Water. Yes, in humid climates, especially, moisture is drawn into the engine, and will condense in the oil and on internal surfaces after engine shutdown and cool off. A combination of water and fuel in the oil contaminates and undermines the oil. Then you have sulfuric acid, carbon contamination, and all of these things wind up being sludge and carbon deposits, more so as the additives in the oil break down from high temperatures.

I've professionally repaired, and driven cars and trucks for a half a century. The ONLY circumstances I've seen heavy sludge buildup and subsequent major costing failures in engines and emissions systems were/are when folks neglect more frequent oil changes, and they fail to use top-tier gasoline. Those are the ones I consistently see lose their cars with under 200,000 miles on them.

The people who are diligent and DO the oil changes at approximately 5-6 thousand miles and are religious about using top tier fuel NEVER have any major failures and routinely experience 350,000 to half a million miles on their vehicles. And they generally have great running cars that are cosmetically challenged, or they are ready to replace their 15 year old car.

With engine replacements nearing 20 grand on some of the more current cars, I'd rather "err" on the side of caution.
So, I change my own personal vehicles at 4 thousand to 6 thousand mile intervals. I drain and refill the coolant every 2-3 years, I replace the transmission fluid at 30,000 mile intervals. Brake fluid gets flushed at 3 years.
Uncle Jake and others' advice and stories of indestructible cars with one oil change in 75,000 miles. abound. They're urban legends that prey upon folks' desire to have their cake and eat it too.

As I’ve often posted on here, top tier fuel is worth it. What you missed is to go with the ones with friction modifier as well, only three choices for that. I’ll let you google it so you won’t feel like it’s hearsay. You’re welcome.

Problem is, I’ve also posted about how often the oil analysts say right on the reports to go longer. I used to frequent BITOG and we’ve even had then posted in this forum saying to go longer. My own samples came back saying to go longer, so I quit sending them about two decades ago. Maybe I’ll let this oil change go long and send one for kicks.

I don’t know if this thread was the one where I said not one person will change what they do based on anything posted here. I know I’ve said that on here in the past. So I will continue to change it based on convenience and nothing more. I’ll also keep watching for posts about an engine going down due to long oil changes. As I said, phasers are a manufacturer defect and beyond that I doubt you will find many other engine issues in the 3.5. I’m not saying it’s impossible, but we don’t have post after post on the subject. Really it’s the trans that was built wrong and other various gremlins that bring these vehicles down.

 

[Dice Roll]

Follow up-

I went to look at who to use, I used to use blackstone, but have watched some lake speed jr stuff in last few years. I had no idea his site said this-

At SPEEDiagnostix, we analyze thousands of oil samples each year—and here's what we’ve found: Over 90% of oil samples show the oil was changed too soon. That’s money—your money—literally getting dumped out with good oil.

The math doesn't lie.​

A typical full synthetic oil change (5 quarts) costs $75–$100 depending on your service provider (larger sump engines drives that cost higher). Do that 3–4 times per year, and you're spending $300–$400 (or more) annually… even if your oil didn’t need to be changed.

Used Oil Analysis Provides:

• Professional Laboratory Analysis - Make informed decisions based on science, not speculation
• Insight into engine wear, contamination, and remaining oil life
• The confidence to extend your oil change intervals safely—often 1.5x to 2x longer
• Spot early signs of engine wear before they become expensive failures

Take advantage of the fact that oil filters become more efficient with age—changing them early actually resets their performance (lower efficiency).

 

[dr2024]

…
Take advantage of the fact that oil filters become more efficient with age—changing them early actually resets their performance (lower efficiency).

This actually presents an interesting argument - perhaps change the oil early if desire (4-5k instead of 9k), but change the filter at every other short interval = original long interval (9k).

Changing the filter is the messiest part of the job anyway.

 

[Mr Big]

Follow up-

I went to look at who to use, I used to use blackstone, but have watched some lake speed jr stuff in last few years. I had no idea his site said this-

At SPEEDiagnostix, we analyze thousands of oil samples each year—and here's what we’ve found: Over 90% of oil samples show the oil was changed too soon. That’s money—your money—literally getting dumped out with good oil.

The math doesn't lie.​

A typical full synthetic oil change (5 quarts) costs $75–$100 depending on your service provider (larger sump engines drives that cost higher). Do that 3–4 times per year, and you're spending $300–$400 (or more) annually… even if your oil didn’t need to be changed.

Used Oil Analysis Provides:

• Professional Laboratory Analysis - Make informed decisions based on science, not speculation
• Insight into engine wear, contamination, and remaining oil life
• The confidence to extend your oil change intervals safely—often 1.5x to 2x longer
• Spot early signs of engine wear before they become expensive failures

Take advantage of the fact that oil filters become more efficient with age—changing them early actually resets their performance (lower efficiency).

I change my own oil for $55.00. Full synthetic mobil 1 and a motorcraft oil filter. I use a sump pump because it makes it so easy. And you opinion on oil filters becoming more efficient with age might not be what you think. As the filter gets clogged it slows down the flow, sometimes making the oil pressure lower.

 

[Fastcar]

I change my own oil for $55.00. Full synthetic mobil 1 and a motorcraft oil filter. I use a sump pump because it makes it so easy. And you opinion on oil filters becoming more efficient with age might not be what you think. As the filter gets clogged it slows down the flow, sometimes making the oil pressure lower.

To take the logic a step further it's kinda like saying a clogged air filter gives more performance as the velocity that does pass through is moving with increased velocity. Which is pure BS like a clogged oil filter is better.

 

[Dice Roll]

I change my own oil for $55.00. Full synthetic mobil 1 and a motorcraft oil filter. I use a sump pump because it makes it so easy. And you opinion on oil filters becoming more efficient with age might not be what you think. As the filter gets clogged it slows down the flow, sometimes making the oil pressure lower.

If you’d pay attention, it’s not my opinion. In fact, I didn’t know that until I saw it from a professional lab operator that specializes in…wait for it…oil analysis. That’s actually a copy of their website, nothing that I said at all.

You do tend to have these prickly takes for the sake of being a tool, so at least you have met expectations.

 

[Mr Big]

If you’d pay attention, it’s not my opinion. In fact, I didn’t know that until I saw it from a professional lab operator that specializes in…wait for it…oil analysis. That’s actually a copy of their website, nothing that I said at all.

You do tend to have these prickly takes for the sake of being a tool, so at least you have met expectations.

I pay attention. And it might not be good to believe every statistic you read. Oil filters are not more efficient the more they clog. As they get clogged filtering out the contaminants, they hinder the performance of the flow and do not filter as well. And changing oil frequently, while to some may be a waste of money, to others it ensures their vehicle is always running on clean oil. No need to insult, I got your point.

 

[bb37]

SPEEDiagnostix is run by Lake Speed Jr. who is the son of former NASCAR driver Lake Speed Sr.

Junior claims to be a professional tribologist and a Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Analyst. He also claims to have "fixed" a significant lubrication problem at Joe Gibbs Racing.

I think his statement that "oil filters become more efficient with age" is curious. I'd like to know his definition of oil filter efficiency. In general, efficiency is based on not one parameter, such as flow capacity, but multiple parameters. Saying one thing is more efficient than something else without a definition of that efficiency is suspect, in my opinion.

 

[JasonH]

I think his statement that "oil filters become more efficient with age" is curious. I'd like to know his definition of oil filter efficiency. In general, efficiency is based on not one parameter, such as flow capacity, but multiple parameters. Saying one thing is more efficient than something else without a definition of that efficiency is suspect, in my opinion.

I think that's easy to reconcile. The filter will filter out more contaminants, but flow oil at a lower rate.

At SPEEDiagnostix, we analyze thousands of oil samples each year—and here's what we’ve found: Over 90% of oil samples show the oil was changed too soon. That’s money—your money—literally getting dumped out with good oil.

I think the Internet is predisposed to promoting incidences where the OCI caused mechanical issues because the failures attract attention. In reality, the majority of vehicle owners probably go by a sticker or the oil life monitor on the vehicle. I've seen quick change shops put 3,000 mile change stickers on vehicles, which I know is patently ridiculous for a non-stressed engine. I've used a 7,500 mile OCI on my Altima for the duration of my ownership and have no issues at 188,000 miles. Same on my four-cylinder Hondas. None of them had any engine failures. Hell, I think I even missed an OCI on my Altima and took it over 12,000 miles. When I pulled the valve cover on the Altima for gasket replacement, the valvetrain was in great condition.

The kind of people that debate OCI are obsessive about vehicle maintenance, so they're likely quick to jump on issues stemming from extended OCI without acknowledging that publicized failure cases suffer from selection bias. No one is watching videos about routine oil changes where the oil was still in good condition.

 

[Dice Roll]

I pay attention. And it might not be good to believe every statistic you read. Oil filters are not more efficient the more they clog. As they get clogged filtering out the contaminants, they hinder the performance of the flow and do not filter as well. And changing oil frequently, while to some may be a waste of money, to others it ensures their vehicle is always running on clean oil. No need to insult, I got your point.

What there is no need for is you looking to pick apart post after post. You also do not pay attention, as you completely missed that wasn’t my comment.

I have to point that out since you “know better” on all sorts of stuff on this board, which I take in stride all the time on here despite the thinly veiled attitude from you, it’s just you crossed a line this time by misusing what I posted as a way to come at me yet again. I’m just not disingenuous when I post like you are and will make it clear when somebody is being a tool.

 

[Mr Big]

What there is no need for is you looking to pick apart post after post. You also do not pay attention, as you completely missed that wasn’t my comment.

I have to point that out since you “know better” on all sorts of stuff on this board, which I take in stride all the time on here despite the thinly veiled attitude from you, it’s just you crossed a line this time by misusing what I posted as a way to come at me yet again. I’m just not disingenuous when I post like you are and will make it clear when somebody is being a tool.

Is this not your comment? "@Dice Roll, If you’d pay attention, it’s not my opinion. In fact, I didn’t know that until I saw it from a professional lab operator that specializes in…wait for it…oil analysis. That’s actually a copy of their website, nothing that I said at all."

Maybe I might know better sometimes because I am involved in this every day. Do you enjoy your "Wizard of OZ" brash comments with insults, as a possible bullying tool?
Maybe you should read what forums are all about. There are questions, answers, opinions, 3rd party information with links and facts. And although we, as members, may not agree with what is posted by another member, we have the right to comment, correct, dispute and agree, "amicably", without any insulting and name calling comments, such as tool. This is what makes a good forum.

 

[LokiWolf]

First, @Dice Roll and @Mr Big stop the back and forth...Thanks.

Change oil every 3000 if you’re using the semi synthetic Ford oil every 5000 if you’re using the straight synthetic. Otherwise you’ll be buying turbos somewhere between 60 and 100,000 miles.

Nope, incorrect. Other than your words, show me some data. I'll wait.

For what it's worth I have a 2014 F150 with the gen 1 3.5 Ecoboost. I change my own oil when the oil life monitor says to change it with Motocraft oil and filter. The truck just turned over 200K miles with multiple cross country trips towing heavy trailers. It has had one rear main seal leak repaired, and other than that has never been cracked open. Original turbos as well as no catch can and no hole drilled in the CAC.

I'm still getting 18 MPG average and it still pulls strong.

Yep, and I know of MANY with exactly your experience. You only hear from those with issues, not people like you that drive it and it gives no issues.

Follow up-

I went to look at who to use, I used to use blackstone, but have watched some lake speed jr stuff in last few years. I had no idea his site said this-

At SPEEDiagnostix, we analyze thousands of oil samples each year—and here's what we’ve found: Over 90% of oil samples show the oil was changed too soon. That’s money—your money—literally getting dumped out with good oil.

The math doesn't lie.​

A typical full synthetic oil change (5 quarts) costs $75–$100 depending on your service provider (larger sump engines drives that cost higher). Do that 3–4 times per year, and you're spending $300–$400 (or more) annually… even if your oil didn’t need to be changed.

Used Oil Analysis Provides:

• Professional Laboratory Analysis - Make informed decisions based on science, not speculation
• Insight into engine wear, contamination, and remaining oil life
• The confidence to extend your oil change intervals safely—often 1.5x to 2x longer
• Spot early signs of engine wear before they become expensive failures

Take advantage of the fact that oil filters become more efficient with age—changing them early actually resets their performance (lower efficiency).

THIS! Data.

To take the logic a step further it's kinda like saying a clogged air filter gives more performance as the velocity that does pass through is moving with increased velocity. Which is pure BS like a clogged oil filter is better.

@JasonH said it below...but this is filtering efficiency. A slightly dirty filter does filter better, but yes, flow speed could be affected. This is the same premise behind oiled air filters.

I think that's easy to reconcile. The filter will filter out more contaminants, but flow oil at a lower rate.


I think the Internet is predisposed to promoting incidences where the OCI caused mechanical issues because the failures attract attention. In reality, the majority of vehicle owners probably go by a sticker or the oil life monitor on the vehicle. I've seen quick change shops put 3,000 mile change stickers on vehicles, which I know is patently ridiculous for a non-stressed engine. I've used a 7,500 mile OCI on my Altima for the duration of my ownership and have no issues at 188,000 miles. Same on my four-cylinder Hondas. None of them had any engine failures. Hell, I think I even missed an OCI on my Altima and took it over 12,000 miles. When I pulled the valve cover on the Altima for gasket replacement, the valvetrain was in great condition.

The kind of people that debate OCI are obsessive about vehicle maintenance, so they're likely quick to jump on issues stemming from extended OCI without acknowledging that publicized failure cases suffer from selection bias. No one is watching videos about routine oil changes where the oil was still in good condition.

This, all of this!

My Take(Based on a degree in Chemistry, and MANY years around high performance motors):
You can without a doubt go 10K miles if you aren't towing, always doing stop and go, or driving aggressively...basically driving normal. Based on the fact you are using Ford's Semi-syn or better oil. PERIOD. This is straight science.

Also, the oil minder in the Ford is based on a weighted algorithm that takes like 5 things into account. Miles, Towing Miles, Start Count, Average Trip miles, and Time since last oil Reset(Oil Change). There might be more, but those are what I remember(Old Brain).

I personally do between 5-7K on all of my current vehicles, because I get them for free as part of buying from my dealer...so the money aspect is not a concern. Plus I am tuned, drive hard, and do short trips, with some towing.

 

[Mr Big]

Also, the oil minder in the Ford is based on a weighted algorithm that takes like 5 things into account. Miles, Towing Miles, Start Count, Average Trip miles, and Time since last oil Reset(Oil Change). There might be more, but those are what I remember(Old Brain).

I personally do between 5-7K on all of my current vehicles, because I get them for free as part of buying from my dealer...so the money aspect is not a concern. Plus I am tuned, drive hard, and do short trips, with some towing.

Everyone seems to have their own schedule. Even testing labs have different results. So, it does make it hard for one to figure out the best time to change. For decades I've changed all my vehicles between 5-7k, as well, depending on conditions, (many short trips, occasional road trips, some driving hard, dusty-sandy-hot conditions, towing). I change my own and watch the sales. My average cost is $43.00.