Front blower motor fuse/relay

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TheWuster

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Motor working fine last night. This morning 1/2 of ice on the car, 10 inches of snow coming and the front blower motor no longer blows.
These online diagrams are so hit and miss so I'm asking the pros here. 2001. Where is the blower motor fuse or relay? Whatever one this has so I can drive the damn thing.
Thanks,

Edit: Thought I found it at the inside block. Console/back blower. Damnit why can't I find a listing for this? Why in the hell aren't the fuses listed in my Haynes manual? I don't have the owners manual. Oo. Maybe I do. I think I downloaded a pdf. Still, any help would be great. Considering the back runs on a fuse I'm assuming the front does also.

Edit 2: Well found the damn thing under the hood. 40 maxi fuse. Nothing looks wrong with it at all. This makes no sense. Works fine last night. Snow storm and nothing, right when I need it most.
 
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TheWuster

TheWuster

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So what's the consensus? Is there a relay I now need to replace or did my fan just give up the ghost right when I really need it? I have the climate control unit with the spin wheel and the fan isn't working at any setting.
If the motor or resistor needs replaced can someone point me to the right place. My Haynes book is being vague. It says it's under the right side of the dash but it can't be that easy can it? Does the dash need to be removed? Is this something I can do in 17 degree weather with the car covered in snow and kind of insulating it since I wouldn't need to have doors open or be outside? The last blower motor I did was on a Buick and it was on the outside of the firewall in the engine compartment.
Edit: Ok did a little research and of all things this blower motor looks easier to change than any other one I've done before I think.
I do, however, would like opinions on this. I'm not exactly sure the function of the relay. I know the function of the resistor block. I'm wondering if I should go after replacing the relay first? It's got nothing in any position so it's not the resistor.
 
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hwy73

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Run a jumper direct from the battery to the blower motor to see if it runs. If should run full speed. If it does, the auto A/C uses a "Blower Control Module" as opposed to the resistor block. The module should be in the plenum just downstream of the blower. What you will see is just the tip of the iceberg as there is a large heatsink/circuit board inside the plenum. Tap on the module with the dumb end of a screwdriver, sometimes they will run. They suffer from bad solder joints on that circuit board.
 

Hamfisted

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Front blower fuse is fuse #105, a big 40a one.

If you need to download an owners manual you can here: 2001 Ford Expedition Owners Manual

Fuses are discussed in the Roadside Emergencies section .


But if it's blowing fuses you probably need to look at a new blower motor anyway.




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TheWuster

TheWuster

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Thanks guys. It healed itself again for a little while but started again a while back. It's getting air conditioning time as opposed to windows down so I need the blower going. I had a spare climate control unit that is perfectly fine so I swapped that in just to see if the roll switch was bad. Wasn't. Don't know why it would be a fuse but at least I know where to check now. Thanks. I'm really hoping it's not the resistor. The one needed for our auto system is like $250. I think I'd hit the salvage yard first. Speaking of that I need to be back out and start testing voltages and continuity.
 

Hamfisted

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The speed resistor for the automatic systems are $100 or less at Rock Auto. But look at the blower motor as well. If you see rust on the outer casing it's about time to replace that as well. A failing blower motor will also cook the speed resistor. So if your blower motor is going bad you'll just ruin another speed resistor.


Ford Gen1 Blower Speed Control Resistors at Rock Auto









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TheWuster

TheWuster

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Yah not the fuse. Didn't think so. I've replaced a motor or two in the past the reason I have so many questions is this Eddie Bauer system is so damn complicated. It doesn't even resemble the Haynes manual. The resistor isn't on the blower motor housing. There's just a plug. What looks like the resistor is mounted behind the kickplate. At least that's what it's looking like. Remove the seat to get a better way in and broke a bolt. What a great day.
 
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TheWuster

TheWuster

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Run a jumper direct from the battery to the blower motor to see if it runs. If should run full speed. If it does, the auto A/C uses a "Blower Control Module" as opposed to the resistor block. The module should be in the plenum just downstream of the blower. What you will see is just the tip of the iceberg as there is a large heatsink/circuit board inside the plenum. Tap on the module with the dumb end of a screwdriver, sometimes they will run. They suffer from bad solder joints on that circuit board.
Is this the "Blower Control Module" you speak of because yes, I can't find a resistor set up anywhere. The green input is coming directly from the wiring harness and the output directly to the blower motor as you can see in the picture. I pulled the relay and it looks brand new. No scorching or anything that makes me think it might be bad. I still will probably run over to the salvage yard and get a replacement but I'm going to bet it does nothing to improve the situation. Still at no blower motor at any position.
What's making me think it's the relay is I'm not getting any power to the BCM and I know my climate control unit is not on the fritz. I have two. Back when the blower motor was still working but I wasn't getting heat I thought the original wasn't sending signal to the damper door motor so I picked up another. Come to find out both controlers are good I just had a plugged heater core. I repeat, I know it's not the main user interface for climate control. So, if it's not that and I'm not getting power to the green plug in the picture logic dictates it's the only thing left in that line and it's the relay, right?
Edit!: I guess when I checked power to the BCM a couple weeks ago I didn't get my multimeter leads all the way in the plug because I have power to the green plug so the BCM must be bad.
Well at least I figured it out. Bad thing is I think that unit costs like $250. I should go to the junk yard for that.
 

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hwy73

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There is a relay inside the blower control module. These units in the panther cars (CV/GM/LTC) suffered from bad solder joints on the board inside.
 

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