Fuel Pump replaced. No Fire, No Fuel! ?

[zfifty]

I recently replaced (throwing parts at a problem) what I believe to be the original fuel pump in my 2000 Expedition (Blackie). Purchased from Advance Auto Parts. It was the Carquest brand. The main thing I did not like about it was the power connector on the replacement Carquest pump did not match the power connector on the original pump. The picture on the website for the Carquest pump, as you can see below, shows an adapter to use with a connector on both ends. Problem was they did not give me that adapter but a pigtail instead with a connector only on one end and 2 butt connectors. This required me to cut the original connector off my harness and crimp on the two wires on pigtail with the butt connectors. The wire colors did not match up to the harness. I am hoping it did not matter which way they went. I can't remember if I tried it out on the battery beforehand to check correct polarity or if I had power at the harness at the time to check. Anyway if I had to do over again I would not have accepted it as received as a pigtail. So others know, please check that the adapter is included, if purchasing a fuel pump.

Anyhow, I replaced the pump due to a no start condition, which went away and returned, assuming that was the problem, before troubleshooting to be certain. In other words don't follow my lead. Anyway I have other issues as this was not the fix, no fire (removed and grounded plug to check for spark), no fuel (fuel pressure gauge) and now have replaced the cam and crank sensors to no avail. All the fuses and relays check out and the fuel cutoff switch is good. I could not communicate at first with the PCM. I had to reset security system ( for some reason it was alarmed though not originally) and then was able to communicate with the PCM but had no codes present. The battery had been unhooked and may have reset the codes. Still no fire/fuel condition. No physical damage to my PCM inside or out.

I have sent my PCM off to get it checked out and repaired hoping to hear the analysis soon. Will update when I do. Sorry for all the rambling.
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[zfifty]

UPDATE:
Having sent my PCM to Module Experts in Jacksonville Florida I was assured to have an analysis of it within 1 to 3 business days. Cost of analysis was around $100 and if it could be repaired they would do so for another $66. Total with tax and shipping was close to $200 analysis and repair and i had to pay for it upfront. Ok good deal but after inquiring on the 5th and 7th business day I got no response. On the ninth day after inquiring he called me back to tell me he initially thought the PCM was repairable but once the repair was started discovered it was irreparable. I have to believe he was telling me the truth but have no way of knowing. He then informed me that he could send me another used PCM that had been checked out and flashed to my vehicle for another $400. I would still need to have my keys programmed to the CPU once I installed it for the PATS security. I said no thank you and he sent my PCM back and refunded the $66 repair fee.

I immediately called Flagship One out of New York and they sent me a PCM set up for my vehicle for less than $130. It arrived at my door in less than a week and I could not be happier with their service. I installed it and after calling around found an old veteran locksmith to program it for the original 2 keys I had. He charged me $100 and came to me. Some estimates I got for this same service he did ranged from $150 to $200. One locksmith went as far as to tell me if I did not have the keys it would be $800.

So after all this I still was not getting fuel pressure so I dropped the tank again and switched the fuel pump wires around to the correct polarity. It had been running backwards. I now had 40PSI fuel pressure but no spark (fire). I checked everything again including fuses, relays, inertia switch and specific wires to and from the CPU for continuity. Everything checked out and I had already replaced the cam and crank sensors with new parts from Advance Auto (Carquest). Everything though through my analysis was pointing to the crank sensor so I swapped out the new Carquest crank sensor previously installed and reinstalled the old Motorcraft crank sensor. Low and behold the engine roared to life and is running great now. Moral of the story, throwing parts at it is not the best way to go about fixing your vehicle and especially if your new parts are bad. This one bit me several ways. All in all I spent about 3 weeks time and just under $500 to get Blackie running again. Advance did refund me the cost of the crank sensor upon return even though it had been installed. I told them to make sure they threw it in the trash and not back on the shelf.

 

[Aspen03]

It's rarely ever a good idea to start throwing electrical parts at an unknown problem for reasons exactly like that. You never know if what's in that box is better than what you have unless you can verify the failure.

Good that it is fixed however. I need to start acquiring known good used spares for some of the randomness on these being we have 2 in the driveway now. For my regals in the past I had a couple bins full of the random bs that would commonly fail. I got them from a trusted source in the community who had a talent for testing and hoarding things. He got out of the platform and unloaded them cheap. Saved me a hassle quite a few times.

 

[Robert Wagner]

@zfifty your patience has more than paid off!

 

[zfifty]

Genuine OEM Ford Motorcraft electrical parts are your best choice for reliability.
Here is a link for checking out crank sensors.

 

[zfifty]

@zfifty your patience has more than paid off!

Thank you! Having another ride while one is down makes the situation a lot less stressful.