Full suspension upgrade

[CableDawg]

Have the 98 4x4 w/ 247k. Currently have an exhaust leak that I’m assuming is coming from the intake manifold that is on my list of things to fix. My main issue is the cv boots are completely jacked along with the tie rods and ball joints. Shocks and springs are rusted so I’m thinking about doing a complete suspension overhaul. I do not have air suspension as it is. What are your thoughts on the best route to take?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CableDawg]

Apparently no one is interested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ExplorerTom]

This forum is a little slow. It's mostly 4th gen guys talking about SYNC updates and stupid crap like that.

Freshening up everything is a great idea. Replace all aspects of the steering and suspension. Use quality parts. I've done the entire steering using Moog parts and was very happy with the results.

 

[lvcjt702]

This forum is a little slow. It's mostly 4th gen guys talking about SYNC updates and stupid crap like that.

Freshening up everything is a great idea. Replace all aspects of the steering and suspension. Use quality parts. I've done the entire steering using Moog parts and was very happy with the results.

+1 on everything that Tom said! You'll find that the 1st gen section is a wealth of knowledge but most of the guys have moved on. Same for 2nd gen for that matter (though there are still a couple of very knowledgeable guys modding theirs).

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[justKen]

Agreed with the above - you can locate MOOG or other aftermarket components pretty readily; Rock Auto advertises on this forum, and will have a selection of choices for you.

Rebuild the front end - even if you may "think" it/ part of it is ok. I just completed mine, and may the SOB that decided how/ where to mount the pitman arm be blessed with a lifetime appointment of jock itch.

Your rear coil springs are likely sagging - you can replace them with either stock-length coils, or stock-length coils atop a spring spacer if you're looking for a little lift. You can also replace the rear coils with '07 F350 coils for about 2 1/2" of lift.

Your front torsion bars may or may not be sagging, and if you deem it necessary to replace these, factory replacement is about the most cost-effective choice, with the exception of scouring your local pull-n-pay for a set of the heavily coveted 7700 torsion bars.

You'll have to visit your shop of choice for an alignment once completed, but most all of this work can be accomplished in the garage with average mechanic tools, to include pickle fork and pitman arm puller included.

/K

 

[kythri]

This past spring, I converted my air ride to conventional suspension, and while I was at it, overhauled the entire suspension and brakes.

Brakes, I went with Power Stop Z36 kits for front/rear.

I used Strutmasters FX14F spring/shock kit - understanding that you don't have air ride, but I'm incredibly happy with the kit. Eibach springs and whatever they used for the shocks, for $413 ($329 + $83 shipping), I'm super happy. Not sure if the kit I bought would be the same parts for a non-air suspension, but I'm sure they have non-air kits as well.

I installed some Daystar KF09125BK 2" coil spacers in the rear, torsioned up the front to match height.

My CV shafts weren't broken, but they were 18 years old, so while I was in there tearing everything apart, I replaced those with new Cardone 66-2112HD units.

With the exception of Energy Suspension bushings for the rear track bar, everything else was Moog - bushings, control arms, trailing arms, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, Pitman arm, idler arm, etc.

Moog is primo stuff - it's always been the brand of choice for my suspension work.

I bought from Rock Auto (don't forget the 5% off coupon code) and Amazon, depending on price/shipping.

I can't stress enough how handy the appropriate OTC pullers came in handy for popping stuff loose.

As above, the Pitman arm was probably the biggest pain - I had to unbolt the steering box from the frame to get the angle I needed to pop that out.

 

[kythri]

Your front torsion bars may or may not be sagging, and if you deem it necessary to replace these, factory replacement is about the most cost-effective choice, with the exception of scouring your local pull-n-pay for a set of the heavily coveted 7700 torsion bars.

Tell me about these torsion bars - I didn't replace mine, and don't seem to have an issue with them, but just curious what mine may be, and the difference.

Thanks!

 

[CableDawg]

You guys have just given me a wealth of knowledge. Thank you! I expulsions have commented earlier but have been busy with work the past week. I’m going to be checking. Out rock auto now. Will most likely take your devise and do the rear as well and jack the keys a bit for a more aggressive look. I was also thinking about doing a 3” body just to give me better access to the engine for when I change out the intake manifold.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[justKen]

Tell me about these torsion bars - I didn't replace mine, and don't seem to have an issue with them, but just curious what mine may be, and the difference.

Thanks!

The 7700 Torsion Bars carry a higher spring rate than the standard Expedition torsion bars, even moreso for the air-ride equipped Expeditions. These can be found on some of the same generation trucks and swapped into the Expedition - if you can find them. @ExplorerTom posted a link on another thread here regarding some aftermarket torsion bars that advertise a 16% increase in spring rate.

I don't know how your Strutmasters kit is set up, but the Suncore kit that I used to replace my air suspension contained a set of coil-over shocks for the front to help offset the lighter spring weight torsion bars necessary for the air-ride to function.

/K

 

[kythri]

Will any code 7 bars from applicable years fit? I read a bit of that thread, but didn't find a ton of details.

As far as the Strutmasters kit, yup, coil over shocks in the front.