Fuse to tap dashcam?

[Jeka]

Hello everyone!

Wondering if anybody has experience in piggybacking accessory (dashcam, radar detector, etc) into the interior fuse box?
I used voltmeter to find a fuse which is not powered without ignition, and so far found only fuse-37 (Heated steering wheel). All others seem to be powered, even after some time (checked two hours after ignition off). The issue with Fuse-37 is its position, I cannot insert a fuse-tap all the way down and keep correct load/draw orientation. Loose connection kind of bothering me, considering that I use external dashcam battery pack which draws 9A during the charge and has 20A fuse itself, plus 20A heated steering wheel - so need a solid connection for potential high current.
I suspect there could be timeouts before some circuits goes down, but couldn't find any information about that.
Would appreciate if you share your experience or theoretical knowledge.

Thanks.

 

[Meeker]

Could you just use any powered fuse and put one of these shut-off timers in series with your camera power?
http://www.fleetsafety.com/shut-down-timer-by-lind/

 

[Artie]

Could you just use any powered fuse and put one of these shut-off timers in series with your camera power?
http://www.fleetsafety.com/shut-down-timer-by-lind/

$80! Ouch.

I’ll be watching this thread as I have the same question.

 

[stamp11127]

I don't have the diagrams for the 2008 Expedition but I do have them for the 2008 F250. Looking at your smart junction box which is usually located behind the passenger kick panel, see if there is a heavier gauge green wire with a brown stripe. If there is check using a meter to see if it has power in run/start position only. If it does then that is the wire that is powering the circuits that are "hot in run and start". Add your branch circuit here, fused correctly of course.

 

[Jeka]

Could you just use any powered fuse and put one of these shut-off timers in series with your camera power?
http://www.fleetsafety.com/shut-down-timer-by-lind/

Thanks for the idea! I didn’t know about that. Want to keep my installation as clean and simple as possible, but if I don’t find anything better, will go that route.

 

[Jeka]

I don't have the diagrams for the 2008 Expedition but I do have them for the 2008 F250. Looking at your smart junction box which is usually located behind the passenger kick panel, see if there is a heavier gauge green wire with a brown stripe. If there is check using a meter to see if it has power in run/start position only. If it does then that is the wire that is powering the circuits that are "hot in run and start". Add your branch circuit here, fused correctly of course.

Thanks for the suggestion. Will try to trace it - all wires are pretty good hidden around the fuse box. Might need to do more disassembly. At the same time will see if I can trim the plastic box to push the tap all the way down - trying to avoid mess up with factory wires

 

[maxjax800]

Any updates to this thread? I too am curious how to use the add a fuse on my expedition max so I can get a car dashcam in.

 

[Yukon Joe]

Maybe @Uturn can help?

I'm also looking at where to tap in for a radar detector. Having something tied to the ignition is helpful, but my radar detector does have a time out feature if I can't find an ignition wire.

@Yukon Joe

 

[Bow512]

Maybe @Uturn can help?

I'm also looking at where to tap in for a radar detector. Having something tied to the ignition is helpful, but my radar detector does have a time out feature if I can't find an ignition wire.

@Yukon Joe

Here is what I did with my mirror tap: https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/radar-detector-mirror-wiring.36557/

 

[Jeka]

Here is mine setup. Main concern was high current for steering wheel heater and dash cam battery pack which charges at 9A and came with 20A fuse (20A + 20A). Because of the shape of fuse box I couldn't push the tap all the way down. Cannot say the connection was loose or flimsy, but just not full enough - which bothered me for some time. Finally I took the panels off and checked connections when both were at full power - temperature didn't go above 47C (ambient was ~17C). Considering I will use steering wheel heater mostly in winter - that should be good. Keep in mind that fuse tap orientation matters - fuses should be connected in parallel and not in series which could burn the bottom fuse in the fuse tap.