How miles did you get out of your suspension?

[Kenerator]

Hi everyone,
I have an 04 EB with 154,500 miles that is starting to wander and drift a little. It seems to follow undulations in the road more than it used to. Additionally, I am starting to feel the road bumps in the brake pedal and steering wheel. It feels like little taps. They are barely perceptible, but present. I suspect ball joints and/or tie rod ends. I haven't had the chance to inspect it yet as I in the middle of replacing the burnt out R303 fuel pump relay. I need to do a brake job, so I'll inspect it then.
My question to y'all is how miles did you get out of your suspension before you had to replace ball joints, control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links, struts? If you had bad ball joints, did you replace the whole control arm? What else did you replace while you had the suspension apart? If I do have a bad part(s), I'm trying to get a feel for what are the, "must dos" while I have it apart.
Thanks,
Ken

 

[Expd830]

When I replaced back strut I also replaced a new swaybar swaybar links and when I have to replace a ball joint I always buy the whole control arm it just saves time that way. Shouldn’t cost you for a few hundred dollars for the parts

 

[sub0cool]

Just did struts in the rear. 136000 miles in the clock.

 

[2011EL]

My 2011 EL Limited has 100k miles. I just completed a huge suspension replacement where I replaced just about everything possible with the exception of the tie-rod ends. So, all controls arms (upper/lower), trailing arms, toe-link bars, stabilizer link bars, sway bar bushings, hub assemblies, IWEs, and strut assemblies. Also replaced the brake rotors and pads as well. All of that was for the front AND rear. I also was forced to replace the 4x4 vacuum hose kit from both IWEs to the solenoid. I replaced the body mounts as well (I don't recommend this job).

The ride quality was beyond crappy. I was sooooo tired of the boat in the ocean ride quality that I went full speed ahead and replaced everything. I didn't want to try troubleshooting individual pieces as I knew everything was roughly 12 years old and has been sitting out in the Houston heat for the last 9 years (lived in WV prior to that).

Anyway, I used only Motorcraft parts as I tried KYB struts and haaaaaated them. Complete waste of $600.

Are you thinking of doing the job yourself or are you planning to have a shop do it? The job isn't the most difficult if you're mechanically inclined. It's very intimidating for sure, but it's all doable with the right tools.

I would recommend replacing the hub assemblies while doing the suspension as the bearings don't last forever. You most likely don't need to replace everything like I did. I went overboard. But, I would recommend anything with a ball joint. I replaced the entire control arms as they came with ball joints already assembled. You can absolutely replace just the ball joints on the arms, but that will extend the time it takes to finish the job.

Definitely change out the stabilizer link bars and the sway bar bushings when you replace the struts. Not very expensive and will help a lot.

 

[twodollars]

2011el, what was the issue with the kyb struts? Did you use them with your oem springs? I was thinking of trying them as my factory struts are getting tired, could use your feedback.

 

[2011EL]

what was the issue with the kyb struts?

Honestly, they were no better than the stock struts I pulled off the truck. I felt like a small sailboat getting rocked around in the ocean while driving with them. The OEM struts (shocks and springs) offer much better (firmer) ride quality than the KYB struts assemblies for me.

I get the desire to try aftermarket struts as they're much cheaper. I made a $600 bet on them and lost. I went ahead and bought all new Motorcraft shocks, springs, dust boots, strut hats, etc. just to get that 'stock' ride feel again. I found a tire shop near me that assembled all 4 struts for $200.

That said, others on here have said they really like Rancho shocks as well as a few other brands. I know some like the KYB struts. To me, it was worth biting the bullet and going back to OEM.

 

[rutger]

Honestly, they were no better than the stock struts I pulled off the truck. I felt like a small sailboat getting rocked around in the ocean while driving with them. The OEM struts (shocks and springs) offer much better (firmer) ride quality than the KYB struts assemblies for me.

I get the desire to try aftermarket struts as they're much cheaper. I made a $600 bet on them and lost. I went ahead and bought all new Motorcraft shocks, springs, dust boots, strut hats, etc. just to get that 'stock' ride feel again. I found a tire shop near me that assembled all 4 struts for $200.

That said, others on here have said they really like Rancho shocks as well as a few other brands. I know some like the KYB struts. To me, it was worth biting the bullet and going back to OEM.

My friend is looking to get Rancho shocks or stay OEM on his new 2011 EL. It is closing to 100k miles so he wants to keep it in great shape. It's in the shop for the installation of the new brake pads and tires from 4Wheelonline and suspension job will be next.