How often do you swap out your brake rotors when doing pads?

[Fasttimes]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

 

[Shantheman73]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

I change the rotors whenever I do the pads.

There might not be scoring, but the pads mate to the rotors. When changing pads, it takes some time for the new ones to mate to the old rotors.

Additionally, I absolutely despise driving a vehicle with rotors that get warped. If you end up having to do the rotors before the pads are necessary...you’re basically doing two brake jobs when you could just do one and get ‘er all done at once.

There’s nothing wrong with NOT doing the rotors mind you, but I prefer to always do the pads/rotors together.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[07navi]

As a former mechanic; excessive rotor changing is a ploy by garages to rip you off. My Excursion has over 200k miles on it with the original rotors. The trick is to not overheat them to the point of warping and pedal pulsations and listen for the slightest metal to metal contact, then put new pads in right away, and a bit of scoring never hurt anyone. I have owned at least 50 vehicles, never bought a rotor (for myself), and never had any brake problems.

 

[TobyU]

I only do them when needed. When they are warped or so grooved or rough you can feel them when you stop.

I always get at least 2 sets of pads sometimes 3 before I do the rotors.

I use local parts stores lifetime pads (store brand semi metallic most all the time) and just the standard lifetime ones. I don't even spring for the 6-12 more "Select" ones. All marketing on these anyway. Same compound as far as I can research but they pre-install as slightly thicker stick on backing plate/shim/silencer and charge you more.

For decades people have been convinces by shops to "always do (or at least turn) rotors with all new pads" or if you do left rotor you have to do right too or same with calipers.

This is not true except for it makes some people feel better.
Similar to the fact that the American people were trained that you must change oil every 3mo/3000 miles for over 30 years.

An new pad will seat in and work just fine on an old rotor as will an old pad with plenty of meat on it will work just fine on a new rotor if you were ever in that situation.

The caliper pins and the caliper piston not sticking or brake hose sticking and the caliper being able to slide freely on its mounts so it can squeeze evenly is FAR more important to even braking and long life than old vs new or components all being replaces at same time.

I used to have two sayings.... You selling it? Don't worry about it.
And Good enough for lease return.

I know...some people get all cautious because "It's your brakes!" Safety and all that.
Really kind of (one of my Dad's sayings) Straining a gnat and swallowing a camel...

People will go out and put new calipers and rotors and pads on a car and feel so good...BUT completely not realize the 12+ year old car its on has badly rusted brake lines and all those new components will matter very little when they hit the pedal and a line squirts fluid out and pedal sinks to floor.
This is often what happens on cars in rust belt states.

I has lost count of how many cars have done this to me.
Not like you crash. You still have either front or rear---for a while. Not great brakes but also with some parking brake use and lighter pedal application you can finish out the day by filling up master cyl 2-3 times and going easy.

New rotors make no difference in real world what commonly happen events.

People say " I want to have best brakes as possible so it is worth it to me"
In reality you would notice little to no difference in stopping ability or even distance in comparison panic tests....So it is really a moot point but people will do what makes them feel better..BUT they shouldn't and the industry shouldn't tell people there is a right and wrong way!

 

[07navi]

I only do them when needed. When they are warped or so grooved or rough you can feel them when you stop.

I always get at least 2 sets of pads sometimes 3 before I do the rotors.

I use local parts stores lifetime pads (store brand semi metallic most all the time) and just the standard lifetime ones. I don't even spring for the 6-12 more "Select" ones. All marketing on these anyway. Same compound as far as I can research but they pre-install as slightly thicker stick on backing plate/shim/silencer and charge you more.

For decades people have been convinces by shops to "always do (or at least turn) rotors with all new pads" or if you do left rotor you have to do right too or same with calipers.

This is not true except for it makes some people feel better.
Similar to the fact that the American people were trained that you must change oil every 3mo/3000 miles for over 30 years.

An new pad will seat in and work just fine on an old rotor as will an old pad with plenty of meat on it will work just fine on a new rotor if you were ever in that situation.

The caliper pins and the caliper piston not sticking or brake hose sticking and the caliper being able to slide freely on its mounts so it can squeeze evenly is FAR more important to even braking and long life than old vs new or components all being replaces at same time.

I used to have two sayings.... You selling it? Don't worry about it.
And Good enough for lease return.

I know...some people get all cautious because "It's your brakes!" Safety and all that.
Really kind of (one of my Dad's sayings) Straining a gnat and swallowing a camel...

People will go out and put new calipers and rotors and pads on a car and feel so good...BUT completely not realize the 12+ year old car its on has badly rusted brake lines and all those new components will matter very little when they hit the pedal and a line squirts fluid out and pedal sinks to floor.
This is often what happens on cars in rust belt states.

I has lost count of how many cars have done this to me.
Not like you crash. You still have either front or rear---for a while. Not great brakes but also with some parking brake use and lighter pedal application you can finish out the day by filling up master cyl 2-3 times and going easy.

New rotors make no difference in real world what commonly happen events.

People say " I want to have best brakes as possible so it is worth it to me"
In reality you would notice little to no difference in stopping ability or even distance in comparison panic tests....So it is really a moot point but people will do what makes them feel better..BUT they shouldn't and the industry shouldn't tell people there is a right and wrong way!

I totally agree with everything you said.

 

[Shantheman73]

I change the rotors whenever I do the pads.

There might not be scoring, but the pads mate to the rotors. When changing pads, it takes some time for the new ones to mate to the old rotors.

Additionally, I absolutely despise driving a vehicle with rotors that get warped. If you end up having to do the rotors before the pads are necessary...you’re basically doing two brake jobs when you could just do one and get ‘er all done at once.

There’s nothing wrong with NOT doing the rotors mind you, but I prefer to always do the pads/rotors together.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll add that I always do my own brakes. Don’t trust shops anymore...too many minimum wage workers rushing to get cars in and out.

So doing rotors and pads for me are still cheaper than doing just the pads at a shop.


2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Plati]

Need to get new pads, just curious what the consensus is on rotor replacement at the same time. My local shop swaps them out every time I take it there for a brake job, so I started doing my own pads lately instead. Figured if there was no scoring on the rotor face why change it?

For me ... depends on my current financial situation, the goals for the vehicle, condition of rotors, front or rear, other factors. My 2003 BEATER I might have just slapped some new pads on if rotors not too bad. My 2014EL I want the vehicle in as close to like new condition as possible when I do something like brakes since I drive this on long trips and maintain it to high standards.

On an older Expy, the rear rotors can build up a corrosion ridge inside the rear due the parking "brake in hat" crappy design making it difficult to remove rotors if you wait a long time to do it. I've had to use a sledgehammer to get old rotors off. So I'd just as soon replace rotors with pads and start fresh.

Even front rotors can be difficult to remove if on there too many years. Doable though.
Generally I find it better to take things apart and clean up rust when servicing.

Over the years I've had no issue with just doing pads. Never had a problem.
They seat right in to the mountains and valleys in the old rotor.

Situational. Rotors seem cheap though if doing the work yourself.
But if I have to choose between a couple cases of BEER and new rotors?

 

[07navi]

For me ... depends on my current financial situation, the goals for the vehicle, condition of rotors, front or rear, other factors. My 2003 BEATER I might have just slapped some new pads on if rotors not too bad. My 2014EL I want the vehicle in as close to like new condition as possible when I do something like brakes since I drive this on long trips and maintain it to high standards.

On an older Expy, the rear rotors can build up a corrosion ridge inside the rear due the parking "brake in hat" crappy design making it difficult to remove rotors if you wait a long time to do it. I've had to use a sledgehammer to get old rotors off. So I'd just as soon replace rotors with pads and start fresh.

Even front rotors can be difficult to remove if on there too many years. Doable though.
Generally I find it better to take things apart and clean up rust when servicing.

Over the years I've had no issue with just doing pads. Never had a problem.
They seat right in to the mountains and valleys in the old rotor.

Situational. Rotors seem cheap though if doing the work yourself.
But if I have to choose between a couple cases of BEER and new rotors?

Choose the beer, waaaay too many rotors are needlessly replaced.

 

[aagitch]

If my rotors are performing just fine at the time of brake pad change, the only way I would still replace the rotors is if they were rusty looking and you could see them with the wheels on. They would be replaced with coated rotors. I can't stand looking at a nice vehicle with rusty (non-pad contact) areas on rotors.

 

[Aspen03]

I slapped some cheap rear pads on mine about 6 weeks ago. Rotors were fine though kinda crusty looking, I'll do painted/coated ones. Planning a full brake job this spring anyway. The fronts will probably be due by mid April based on my current mileage habits. I have a little pulsing in the pedal but not terrible. I want to do it once so it's getting new rotors and pads all around. It should last awhile and I need replace parking brake components anyway so the rears will be off again.