How to... Torque Wrench

[hawkman71]

I do not own a torque wrench and have used one a few times when I was young living at home. I'm getting ready to replace rear struts on my 3rd Gen Expedition and want to do it correctly. I have not got the torque specs yet but will be looking into beg, borrow, or buy a torque wrench.

What do you recommend? Is there a size I should get or multiple? Or can you add adapters to size up or down, depending on nut size?

I'm on the cost-effective end of the spectrum, not the Snap-On end if you are going to recommend specific models.

There are some used on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace locally.

 

[Trainmaster]

Look for a "click type" Craftsman one on ebay. Make sure it's an older USA-made one, which are very nice tools. Avoid the Craftsman ones made today in Shang-pang-****, which are basically up-priced Harbor Freight junk.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-...h=item3b03da9211:g:EHoAAOSwaAxanF2K:rk:9:pf:0

If you buy one, get one for 1/2" sockets rated in foot-lbs. That will serve you for most suspension parts, wheels, manifolds, etc. Now you need a set of 1/2" sockets too.

 

[Plati]

I have 2 (different torque ranges) from Harbor Freight.
Have used both many times. They seem to work just fine.
Both "click type". I think the pricier ones have a deform-able bar

Craftsman is not the brand it used to be in my experience.
Took a rusted out ratchet back and they had a box full of them at the counter. How any decent tool company could sell ratchets that rust out inside is beyond me. It was always treated with care.

 

[1955moose]

If your not going to use often, why not just do one of the free rentals from O'Reilly or Auto Zone. You put up a credit card deposit, gets refunded back. Personally I only use one on head gaskets and intake manifolds due to their critical torquing technique. I did buy a torque wrench from Napa auto parts for $80.00 about 7 years back. I've had good luck so far. The one that I used to have was a Sears craftsman one from back in the 70's. I wouldn't recommend buying a used one unless you can test it, or has a return policy. If they've been dropped or abused, the reading's could be off.

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[mquick5]

Fiqure out your torque specs 1st. You wouldn't want to buy a 200 ft lbs wrench, if your specs were like 225 lbs! And I'd buy buy a used snap-on, just make sure it's been calibrated recently. If not rent one at auto parts store, and compare them. I was able to get a 250 lb snap-on used for $75.00 on eBay. Last time I rented one, it was $100 deposit. Basically you put down what the tool is worth. That way if you don't bring it back, you own it and the store is out nothing.

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[hawkman71]

Thank you very much, everyone. Good advice, folks. I realized later today that I could rent one - and given how little I'd need it, it's the way to go. I'll keep an eye out for a good deal, though, as was suggested (USA-made Craftsman or Snap-On used, etc.

mquick5 - I found a write-up on this process on another forum I think and the guy gave the torque specs for some of the connections: from 31 to 350 ft-lbs!

Upper mount nuts - 30
Shock - lower bolt - 350 (might be a mis-print b/c I saw a guy on youtube tighten to 250 ft-lbs.)
Lwr Ball Jnt - 111
Lwr arm to frame - 221

I'm not sure where'd I'd find this information in print from Ford. Haynes?

 

[mquick5]

When I've done work on the past, the local auto parts stores can look up torque specs. If not try and find a service manual. And yeah 350 ft lbs sounds extreme! You'd have to have a good size breaker bar, that's for sure.

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[Trainmaster]

The Ford service manual has all the torque specifications. It's a handy manual to have if you can find one on CD on ebay for $30. Otherwise, they're pretty expensive.