I don't own her yet but could later today.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Anthony G

Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
Hello everyone. First time potential owner of a Expedition here, maybe, depending on what ya'll say and the test drive.

I'm looking at a 1998 Eddie Bower 4x4 with the 5.4. I've spent the last couple of days reading what I could on the web, watching a few videos on youtube, time to make a decision. First, the bad news. It has north of 250,000 miles on it. I did not run a full carfax on it but other VIN checks and etc show almost no maintenance records at all. The last one was in 2010. It will need tires by the end of the summer. I haven't been in the truck yet but looking in the side windows shows the drivers seat covered with a seat cover, the rest of the interior looks pretty good. Moving on, the body has no dents, it does have numerous door nicks and other paint imperfections. The original wheels are all there, the glass is good, although I don't remember if I took a hard look at the front windscreen so I can't say for sure the front glass is not cracked. There are no deposits on the tailpipe. Seriously, that tailpipe is barely even black. My finger was completely clean after rubbing on that. No, the tailpipe is not new. it looks the age of the vehicle. I've got a lot of looking to do today, mainly for all the rust spots the web advises to look for....see how she does on the test drive, test the 4x4 system...all that stuff. I'm aware of the spark plug issues with the Triton

The owner wants 1400 for this old beast. What do you all think?
 
Last edited:

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
No way the original tailpipe would be that clean with that many miles on the clock.
Keep in mind at the mileage it has:
The engine is worn
The transmission is worn
The cooling system is a known problem if not taken care of correctly - waterpump, heater core and radiator
U joints
Brakes
EGR service
Head gaskets have been known to fail or leak oil

Check the color of the engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant.
None of them should be off color - coolant should not be milk chocolate, oil should not be super brown or black.
My little trick is to look between the driver seat and console. Most people don't clean there when trying to sell a vehicle. It can be a good indicator of how well it was taken care of.
 
Last edited:

1955moose

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 23, 2014
Posts
5,981
Reaction score
1,338
On top of what Stamp stated so eloquently, is the big question, are you talented enough to do the repairs that very likely will be needed? If not, one major repair can be the price of the vehicle. No service records is never a good thing. Oh well, if you do buy it, we'll all have something to talk you through. You might want to have a shop, or talented friend do an A to Z inspection before you buy. 250k is normal miles for a 21 year old vehicle, but still real high for an original everything, no reman motor, transmission.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
A

Anthony G

Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
Thank you for replying. I agree with you. That pipe is too clean. But, it is weathered in and has the patina it should. Maybe it was replaced a couple of years ago. Still should have some carbon or something though. I'll check everything I can think of. I'm decently handy with things and am not afraid to wipe a bit of oil on my jeans. I know this truck is a potentially huge project. I'm just wondering what to do here. Thanks for the tip about the console, thats a new one and a good one.
 
OP
OP
A

Anthony G

Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
On top of what Stamp stated so eloquently, is the big question, are you talented enough to do the repairs that very likely will be needed? If not, one major repair can be the price of the vehicle. No service records is never a good thing. Oh well, if you do buy it, we'll all have something to talk you through. You might want to have a shop, or talented friend do an A to Z inspection before you buy. 250k is normal miles for a 21 year old vehicle, but still real high for an original everything, no reman motor, transmission.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
Think I screwed up the first response but think I got it now. Responded to Stamp and it was a separate post and I can't seem to be able to delete the post with only a quote. Anyway, am I talented enough. Maybe. I feel good about doing front end work, ball joints, tie rod ends and etc. I'm pretty sure I can change the spark plugs, I can remove fuel rails and brackets and such. I always do my own oil changes and brakes and things of that nature. Anything more complex than that, I simply do not have the shop for it. I'm very leery about high mile vehicles so yeah, this one is a bit of a concern. Well, test drive will tell I guess. Thank everyone for their time and effort and great replies.

Till later
Tony
'
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
On your test drive cruise around 45-50 mph and watch the tach. The tc may kick in & out of lockup or hunt for gears at other speeds. If the tach bounces rpms (100-200) then there are issues.
Also test the 4x4 operation, there have been quite a few issues with those engaging and with the hubs.
 
Last edited:

Adieu

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
3,700
Reaction score
786
Location
SoCal
What's the goal?

Cheap general everyday transportation? Offroad build project truck? Camping/hunting vehicle? Cargo hauler?

Are you hoping for something that doesn't require any more expenses at all or planning to sink money into it? How much money are you willing to spend, or how many miles are you hoping to get out of it without spending any?
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
A

Anthony G

Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
On your test drive cruise around 45-50 mph and watch the tach. The tc may kick in & out of lockup or hunt for gears at other speeds. If the tach bounces rpms (100-200) then there are issues.
Also test the 4x4 operation, there have been quite a few issues with those engaging and with the hubs.
Thank you. I'm one foot out the door to go see this vehicle. I'll keep an ear and eye out for torque converter not staying engaged like that, and we are out in the boonies so it is easy to find a fireroad to test the 4 by 4 system. I wanted to run around a bit on bumpy dirt roads to hear and feels things too.
 
OP
OP
A

Anthony G

Member
Joined
May 14, 2019
Posts
8
Reaction score
0
Location
New Mexico
What's the goal?

Cheap general everyday transportation? Offroad build project truck? Camping/hunting vehicle? Cargo hauler?

Are you hoping for something that doesn't require any more expenses at all or planning to sink money into it? How much money are you willing to spend, or how many miles are you hoping to get out of it without spending any?
Hi
This is not for towing of for other really rough work. It will see some dirt road work and even some off roading, nothing even close to it's limits. I'm basically tired of mid sized vehicles. I want this to be my runaround and I like to keep my cars fairly stock. RIght now, I'm hoping she would go maybe 20.000 miles without having to sink a bundle, thats 3-4 years with the miles I drive a year. To put it into perspective, the trip computer on my current car says for years I average under 30 miles an hour on average. The longest trips I make are about 2 hours one way and I do that 4 times a year or so. Incidentally, I'll find out if I buy it I guess but is this class of vehicle more expensive to insure than a mid size 4 cylinder SUV? Yes I know my mileage will be 1/3 of my current car hehe
 
Top