Install F150 Bilstein 5100 or 6112 products on my 2004 Expedition?

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Vincent Vega

Vincent Vega

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@Jb14 good to see you are still out there. The Bilstein/F150 coilover is 1.25 inches taller than the stock Exp coilover. That got me 2.5 inches of ride height lift at the wheel. I might have got some of that lift just from the new coils, hard to say but those coils were almost 20 years old, probably getting tired.
I didn't try the top circlip so I can't be 100% sure. But on a F150 the top circlip is supposed to provide 2 inches of lift. As you probably know, thats because the coil is more preloaded (compressed) and stiffer, so sags less with the Exp's weight. Add 2.5 inches to that because of the taller coilover. So I would estimate 4.5 inches of lift if you use the top.
Let me know what you end up doing and how it goes.
 

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@Vincent Vega Thank you for the info really helps me choose the direction I've been mulling over. I have been debating on selling the truck but still like the old girl and with the cost of new vehicles with overinflated costs I have decided to drop some money and give it a refresh.
 
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Vincent Vega

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@Jb14 I agree, it is the worst time in world history to buy a car. I am doing the same thing. Over the last year or so I put in new intake man, timing set, master cyl, brakes, then I finally got to the suspension. After the suspension, I started to repaint the rusty parts of the roof where water collects in those stupid channels. Then my lower ball joints started going out, and a blend door motor started clicking... Never ends.
What is the plan for the refresh?
 

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@Vincent Vega Back in 2016 when I lifted my truck I redid, for the most part, the entire front suspension (the essential parts) and plan on doing something similar with replacing struts, springs new upper, and replacing bushings in the lower A-arm. I already purchased new brake rotors and calipers that I am changing out this coming weekend. I have been very fortunate with my truck and have over 300k besides regular maintenance and the original alternator (that just went out a few month ago) plugs & batteries my engine is all original from the factory and besides the ticking runs really good, so I am either going to have the engine rebuilt or just do the cam phaser, timing chain high flow oil, and have the overhead cam and rollers replaced plus replace a few caskets & bushings here and there, and the exhaust system. I will also be considering regearing which I did not do when I put on the 35s. I also need to replace my tires which have been on the truck since 2016 (I have been having sticker shock with the increase in tire costs rising, so been procrastinating)

Other than that I may upgrade the stereo system with a pioneer unit and speakers. Pricing this out I should be around 3k investment minus tire cost but I put that under maintenance. I am going to try to do as much of the work myself or find a backyard/mobile mechanic to assist due to my work schedule (Though I still need to find a mechanic) I also have the paint issue so I am still deciding about that.

So that's about it for now.
 
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Vincent Vega

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@Jb14 great plan. Please keep us updated on your progress, would love to see it come together.
Any photos from your brake job? Last year, after sledge-hammering for an hour, I had to make my own "press" to get the factory rotors off last year. Sucked.
Yeah with 35s I would think regearing would be good. Even my 33s made a noticeable difference. I am going to install at least one locker, and will regear to 3.90 then. Might as well while it is all opened up.
Since you brought it up, I will post on here when I fix the roof paint. Not than I am anything close to a pro painter. I have sanded the rust off and finally got the body filler I need. Oreillys bungled it twice so I finally got from Napa. I am going to do the LCAs before Fall, so it will be ready for Mojave trails.
Later
 

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@Vincent Vega I should have thought about taking photos when I did the brake job! The brake job went 98% smooth with a couple of head-scratchers regarding the new calipers. 1st I bought the powerstop kit with the cross-drilled and slotted rotors with the Z37 SUV pads. (Note: Powerstop was not my 1st choice and I did not want drilled and slotted rotors would have preferred blanks or slotted-only but cost and available options is why I went this route) I also bled the brake fluid system and replaces with DOT4 instead of DOT3.

Regarding the brake calipers, I purchased them from BuyBrakes has a kit that included the caliper, bracket, and hardware. The calipers are centric and appear to be a quality product but I had 3 issues.

1st) And to me the main issue, is regarding the brake line on the driver's side. I purchased driver and passenger (Thats how kit described) I replaced the passenger side first and the brake line install in the same location as the stock calipers at the bottom. The driver however brake line position was at the top (I could not reverse the bleeder with the brakeline position as they are different sizes) I tried to just put brakeline to the top position but that kinked the line to much for my comfort so I had to rework, bend and twist the bracket securing the line to the LCA which turned out ok until I put the wheel back on. With my offset and wider wheel the brake line was rubbing the backside of the wheel so I had to rework the bracket again to get the distance I needed.

(Note: I did check my order and yes it was for driver and passenger but when I unpacked calipers there was a small round sticker indicating (L/R) I guess now size fits all but that is not how factory was)

2nd) The slide pins on the caliper were 7mm Hex while factory is 9mm Hex (not a big deal but thought I'd mention) the issue was that the slide pin material seems softer and one pin had an issue with the hex not formed correctly and it started stripping. The solution was easy I was able to use the 9mm Hex slide pins from the old stock calipers ( I switched all 4 to be sure)

3rd) One of the bleeder valves' head stripped with little effort so I temporarily replaced both sides with the stock bleeder valve and will purchase new valves to have on hand.

In conclusion, the new systems seem to be working well, braking smoothly, and the more I drive the better the bite. I still have the stock brake booster and feel that I should replace it (just in my head due to miles on the vehicle)

That's it for now
 
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Vincent Vega

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@Jb14 sounds like a giant pain in the ass, but thats great that you got it figured out. After hearing about your experience I am going to rebuild my calipers when the time comes. I replaced my master a few months ago - FYI Motocraft discontinued that part. All or most of the aftermarket parts appeared to be the same exact part at different prices marketed by different brands. Napa was like $100. I got a Raybestos for about $60. Works fine, just had to bleed the crap out out the brakes using Forscan (because of the antilock system).
 

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@Vincent Vega It is was interesting that when purchasing as a kit that things like this were not thought through, but at the same time I did not want an expensive kit nor a cheap kit so I guess little things like this will just be the case. Anyways now that I have some miles on them everything is working good and smooth I just needed to apply some backyard mechanic experience to the project. I originally planned on rebuilding my calipers and watched a few vids that made me question whether or not rebuilding was just the rubber stuff or if it included needing to replace the cups if they were pitted etc, so with over 300k on the original calipers chose the new route. Now the booster is something I have been thinking about replacing as well so thanks for the tip on the Raybestos and the forscan for ABS.
 

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