Intake Manifold -5.4L 2v

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csanch40

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Well....

I am finally getting my intake manifold replaced. I bought my 04 last April with 150k and it had a small coolant leak from the crossover on the manifold. The leak has been mitigated by using some coolant tabs. However, I am getting lean codes. The first time I got the codes, I replaced a few vacuum lines and that did the trick. The codes came back and I am pretty sure its the intake manifold.

Since price is a big concern, I am going with the aftermarket Dorman. My local shop is giving me a solid deal on the labor. Any issues to look out for? Also, should I try to get some other stuff done while they are getting the manifold out? I've heard people replacing timing chins and spark plugs while they are in there.

Thanks! This forum is always a huge help.
 

Hamfisted

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Have the mechanic remove and inspect the crossover pipe (take the crossover off the manifold....) and it's gasket surface area for cracks or delamination on the manifold-crossover mating surface. It may very well be just the crossover gasket failure and not require a complete manifold replacement. Just a new crossover gasket (it's an O-ring style gasket...). The stock manifold is better than the Dorman replacement if it's in good shape.

When's the last time the sparkplugs were changed ? They're easy to get to and the coils will already be off when they do the intake manifold. The cylinder head temperature sensor is easy to access with the manifold off if you're having any issues with the temperature gauge in your instrument cluster. Other than that probably just a new thermostat with the installation. Cleaning up the intake ports in the heads if they're carbonned up. That's about the only "easy" stuff to get to while the manifold is off. I would have the shop smoke test the intake system for any leaks, before, and after the work.



If you do actually need a new intake, here's a good price on an OEM manifold:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...&pd_rd_w=d1jIN&pd_rd_wg=EbKEi#customerReviews
 
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riphip

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PCV and hoses/elbows connected to vacuum sources behind the intake that are normally hard to reach before and after as suggested by Hamfisted.
 

Yupster Dog

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I am going with the aftermarket Dorman
Unless you like doing things twice use OEM intake manifold not aftermarket.
Plenty of members did the aftermarket then had to get the OEM immediately after or had constant problems until they did put OEM intake in. Good luck
 

BlackCoffee

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If you are getting codes on the number one cylinder, you may have a different problem. Depending on your level of mechanical ability, it is not much more work to pull the heads. Sure, you may be getting coolant in because it is entering the intake manifold, but it could also be a breakdown of the head gasket. The #1 cylinder is notorious for this problem. The aluminum head begins to corrode at the slightest leak and allows coolant into the cylinder. I had to do head gasket on my 2003 EB 5.4 at just around 150K. You don't need to pull the engine, but there are a couple of bolts on the back of the heads that hold the wire harnesses that are a pain to remove (1/8 turn for 5 minutes).
 

Broncoholic

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If you plan on keeping the truck for more than a year, don't use Dorman. Far too many bad reviews for this intake. Shop online for best price Motorcraft intake from a DEALER. I got mine from Lakeland Ford. This is the only way to know you're getting a Motorcraft part and not a Chinese counterfeit. I did mine last summer over a weekend. I would've finished it in a day, but I started late Saturday and the 1st 1/4" inch-lb torque wrench I borrowed from Autozone didn't work, so had to get another.

While I had mine torn apart, I did spark plugs, COP boots, thermostat, fuel injector o-rings and replaced a couple vacuum elbows.
 

Vincent Vega

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I just replaced my manifold last month at 140k mi. As others said before, get the Motorcraft manifold (if it is the manifold that is the problem and not the manifold gaskets). The Dorman will give you problems again soon. The injectors from the old manifold need to be transferred to the new. The O-rings need to be replaced during that process. Each injector has an upper and lower O-ring, so you need a total of 16 (they are cheap). Replacing the spark plugs while the manifold and throttle body are out of the way takes 20 minutes, otherwise hours. Inspect the coolant hoses while they are easy to get to. My hoses were good, except the upper radiator hose ($60). Clean out the carbon from the throttle body, while it is removed. Replace the thermostat and O-ring ($20). Check or replace the PCV valve ($10). You could do the timing set now, but it is mostly a different job so doesn't make a lot of diff. BTW I used all Motorcraft parts, which are relatively expensive but I recommend 100%. Good luck!
 

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