JLT Oil Seperator

[Boostedbus]

Why is it we get so many posts on oil questions, but very little on diagnostic of electrical, or engines? It's only oil, not the crystal ball of life. That, I'd love to see 70 posts. And one by a guy/girl that actually saw and talked to you know who? This outa get the party going! Anyone died and saw the bright light?

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

No but almost died before when I saw bright flashing lights in the rear view mirror! That was in my youth though when I was overcome by gas fumes and perfumes!

 

[Machete]

I have searched high & low for ecoboost issues. I can't find any failures or complaints relating to carbon build up. I've found Explorer carbon monoxide issues and Fiesta ecoboost motor issues due to a sensor allowing for overheating. Article below. With all of the millions of ecoboosts on the roads in WOT police vehicles, in service vans, in cars from Fiestas to Expeditions with owners that surely don't take good care of them. I looking at company work vans with drivers that will abuse them and skip service intervals. There isn't a peep of premature engine failures all over the place because of carbon build up.

I do think the motor is designed to burn the gunk you are pouring out of your catch cans. The numbers of complaints don't add up to needing one. It's like the 3,000 mile oil change myth. You could put in a catch can and change oil every 3000 or even 1000 miles and say see how long my vehicle lasted yet there are hundreds of thousands of similar vehicles that have no issues and didn't go to this extreme.

So please show me all of those carbon build up motor failures and piss poor running motor complaints and I'll run right out and buy one.

Edit: I did see the early years of ecoboost F150 stuttering issues where the solution was to drill a small hole in it. That was a poorly designed inter cooler issue not an oil vapor issue causing carbon build up. It has been fixed since.

Ford to refund 'engine fail' EcoBoost customers
https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-45628325

Also found this:
Is Carbon Buildup a Problem With Direct-Injection Engines?
https://www.autoguide.com/auto-news...a-problem-with-direct-injection-engines-.html

From your article:

“But if something does go awry with your EcoBoost engine and there are drivability issues associated with deposits, Laskowski said the only Ford-approved course of action at this time is to replace the cylinder head, though he also said, “Manual cleaning with a brush and various carbon dissolving products has been used with great success on vehicles out of warranty.”

And there’s your proof. It exists and Ford has an “approved course of action” so they too are aware.

The design effects more than just Ford Ecoboost engines. Ford compensates w the ECM and software tuning in an attempt to minimize the potential for severe carbon build up on back of valves but...it’s still a direct port injected turbo with no mechanism to wash the valves w gasoline.

I think the bigger issue however is the whole strategy of placing turbos on small v6 engine into a truck. It’s purely a CAFE standards response more than a pure power goal or else they’d be putting turbos on v8’s.

There are many discussions about “ticking” Ecoboost engines and 5.0’s that sound like diesels (cylinder distortion) as well as premature failures w VVT cam phasers, chain guides, etc.

Ford has had their issues just like other manufacturers.

No sense in arguing they don’t exist.

Just drive the damn truck.

 

[1955moose]

You know this reminds me of my Yamahas I drove through the late 60's, and 70's. 2 stroke engines for those here that don't know we're what you rode if you wanted something light and small, and fast. Problem with all 2 stroke engines is they work off an oil/gas mixture to run and lubricate the bottom end crank bearings, as well as the whole top end. They use no valves, just fuel in, exaust out, hence the 2 cycle, or 2 stroke moniker. Problem with such a supercharged system is carbon buildup. Exaust silencers, we called them baffles, had to be yanked out and decarboned every 5,000 miles. The cylinder/cylinders had to do the same at usually 10,000. Less if it was a high performance racer. That meant pulling head, decarboned, scraping out buildup on piston top, exaust port, and cylinder head cumbustion chamber. If their was scoring on cylinder wall, then you had to overbore, new piston and rings. It was just what you did. Engines rarely went more than 20,000 in those days, most around 10,000. Worked out of my garage then, and let me tell you my work bench or garage floor was never empty.


Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[lbv150]

You know this reminds me of my Yamahas I drove through the late 60's, and 70's. 2 stroke engines for those here that don't know we're what you rode if you wanted something light and small, and fast. Problem with all 2 stroke engines is they work off an oil/gas mixture to run and lubricate the bottom end crank bearings, as well as the whole top end. They use no valves, just fuel in, exaust out, hence the 2 cycle, or 2 stroke moniker. Problem with such a supercharged system is carbon buildup. Exaust silencers, we called them baffles, had to be yanked out and decarboned every 5,000 miles. The cylinder/cylinders had to do the same at usually 10,000. Less if it was a high performance racer. That meant pulling head, decarboned, scraping out buildup on piston top, exaust port, and cylinder head cumbustion chamber. If their was scoring on cylinder wall, then you had to overbore, new piston and rings. It was just what you did. Engines rarely went more than 20,000 in those days, most around 10,000. Worked out of my garage then, and let me tell you my work bench or garage floor was never empty.


Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

I miss my RD350...however I have a restored '86 Suzuki LT250R and a Yamaha Banshee waiting for a restoration...

 

[chuck s]

Time to get waaaaaaaaaaaay off topic: I recall the hassle of the separate set of points for each cylinder in my Triumph 650cc bike. Separate carburetor for each as well. Acted as if there were two single cylinders there. Dry sumped and no oil filter. Don't recall alarming oil use and there may not have been any. Nor did I put 10,000 miles on it.

-- Chuck

 

[Boostedbus]

This is the total accumulation of what the can has caught in the past 8,000 mi. It’s averaging 1 ounce every 1,000 miles of straight up oil. This RXP Can separates the water from the oil and lets the water vapor through to get burnt off evidently. So I don’t have to worry about it overflowing back in the engine or it freezing up in the winter. It looks like the can will hold 16 oz. and I change my oil at 3,000 miles, so I could easily wait and drain it at oil changes. This appears to be one of the differences between the JLT Can and the RXP Can..... water vs. no water

 

[bobmbx]

No moisture is a good thing right?

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

"No moisture" implies you live in 0% humidity.

 

[Boostedbus]

"No moisture" implies you live in 0% humidity.

That’s just it..... I live in MD with plenty of humidity. That’s why l’ve come to the conclusion that the Can is also an oil separator and not just a catch all can.

 

[Boostedbus]

I’m not trying to sell people on the RXP Can over the JLT Can at all. I’m just posting my findings on the differences that I’m seeing other than price,from the pics I’ve seen from the JLT ‘s caught oil. Is the RXP Can worth the extra $$$ and pain to install? The jury is still out.

 

[lbv150]

This is the total accumulation of what the can has caught in the past 8,000 mi. It’s averaging 1 ounce every 1,000 miles of straight up oil. This RXP Can separates the water from the oil and lets the water vapor through to get burnt off evidently. So I don’t have to worry about it overflowing back in the engine or it freezing up in the winter. It looks like the can will hold 16 oz. and I change my oil at 3,000 miles, so I could easily wait and drain it at oil changes. This appears to be one of the differences between the JLT Can and the RXP Can..... water vs. no waterView attachment 29129

Water vapor does nothing for performance, again you only want clean air and fuel in the engine to burn. Now that warmer weather is coming, my JLT will start producing straight oil again. Ever notice how oil fill caps get white gunk on the inside during the winter and not in the warmer months?