Just how hard is it to keep the rear AC functioning?

[rwc265]

Yes, it's me again. As much as I condemned this 2009 Expedition, it's far from dead yet and I'm not all convinced it actually does have a cam phaser problem after all. It definitely has exhaust leak problems at the manifolds, which I think is what I'm hearing. And as much as I hate to say it considering it'll eject rocker rust if I slam the door hard enough... I've grown fond of it. It's a loyal ride, and really has been trouble free

My latest issue is a hot AC. I knew it would be a problem when I spotted UV dye on the discharge line while doing an oil change. Seems an easy enough fix for the front, but my main concern is the rear AC lines I was told were problematic to begin with, and my Alldata for replacing them starts off with removing the heat shields and muffler which suffice to say isn't gonna happen unless I melt it all off and donate what's left to a blacksmith. I haven't looked at them yet but considering the rust issues on this thing, I can't imagine the rear lines will be good for much longer if they even are at all. Haven't replaced the discharge line yet so I haven't actually pulled a vacuum to see if it holds. I really don't wanna go through all the trouble of replacing the rear lines but I was also told if I use blockers on the rear line ports, I'll lose my 2nd row AC which I'd rather not do.

So realistically, what are my options? How hard is it really to replace the rear AC lines? Any way to do it easier besides the way Ford says to do it? And as far as I can tell they're not cheap lines either

The other option I've been looking it is something like making my own lines. Also pricey but I figure if I did that and made my own soft lines, I could route then better than directly buried by Thor's Hammer-esque exhaust parts.

 

[S20Workstation4]

The Rear A/C Lines become problematic because the body mounts wear out on the car.

Most of the time what happens is the body mounts get worn, and vehicle body drops a little bit. Since the lines are attached to the body, the lines will droop until the touch the frame or heat shield or something else.
Then as your driving the car, the lines will rub on the opposing piece, eventually wearing away and creating a pin-hole leak.

My rear lines started leaking because of the worn body mounts, I filled in the pinhole area with some JB-Weld, and its held up ever since.
I used zip ties, to tie the lines away from the frame or near any other rubbing pieces, there so that they don't rub and cause another leak in the future.

If you don't have any leaks in them now, I would go under the car and look to see if its rubbing anywhere. Even if their extremely close to the frame, I would tie them back close to the body, to prevent future issues.

 

[rwc265]

Well that's the body mount closest to those underbody lines I believe. I feel like something might be missing at the bottom

 

[rwc265]

Little update, I went and got a set of gauges and a vacuum pump from HF since I'm gonna need it anyway. Hooked the gauges up, only got like 30psi on the low side. Didn't happen to write down the high side reading, took me a bit to get that valve to clip into the line. Despite being low, cycling it enough times I did get it to make cold, but the compressor is also rattling noticeably. Doesn't sound particularly healthy. In retrospect that yellow on the discharge line is probably the oil I think. I think the TXVs are iffy as well. I got the rear to make cold before the front did, and come to think if it I was getting short cold bursts through the 2nd row vents but I chalked it up as a hallucination or something. Seeing as how a kit with the compressor, TXVs, gaskets/o-rings, etc etc is only $260 plus another 100 give or take for just new front lines, not too bad. As for the rear ones, I'll probably do body mounts as a precaution and see what I can do about shoring them up if needed. I couldn't really get a good look at them but I didn't see any obvious signs of dye poking around by the heat shield.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13235729&cc=1443966&pt=17507
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5023653&cc=1443966&pt=6900&jsn=729
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4911006&cc=1443966&pt=6900

Any objection to that parts list?

 

[max78]

Four seasons compressors are trash in my most recent experience. I would get the cheaper UAC if your going to go cheap. If you plan on keeping g it for any length of time I would get the Motorcraft.

I went to car-part.com and picked up a used low milleage compressor that looked new for $40 and it's what restored the AC back to blowing ice.

 

[S20Workstation4]

Little update, I went and got a set of gauges and a vacuum pump from HF since I'm gonna need it anyway. Hooked the gauges up, only got like 30psi on the low side. Didn't happen to write down the high side reading, took me a bit to get that valve to clip into the line. Despite being low, cycling it enough times I did get it to make cold, but the compressor is also rattling noticeably. Doesn't sound particularly healthy. In retrospect that yellow on the discharge line is probably the oil I think. I think the TXVs are iffy as well. I got the rear to make cold before the front did, and come to think if it I was getting short cold bursts through the 2nd row vents but I chalked it up as a hallucination or something. Seeing as how a kit with the compressor, TXVs, gaskets/o-rings, etc etc is only $260 plus another 100 give or take for just new front lines, not too bad. As for the rear ones, I'll probably do body mounts as a precaution and see what I can do about shoring them up if needed. I couldn't really get a good look at them but I didn't see any obvious signs of dye poking around by the heat shield.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13235729&cc=1443966&pt=17507
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5023653&cc=1443966&pt=6900&jsn=729
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4911006&cc=1443966&pt=6900

Any objection to that parts list?

Parts look good, although I second @max78 answer.
I personally would try to look for an OEM used compressor, low miles that's in good condition.
You can find them pretty cheap and OEM compressors will usually last forever when treated properly

2010 Expedition of my own, 244k w/ original A/C Compressor.....


When the body droops a little bit, the most common place for the lines to run is close to the passenger front wheel, where the frame starts to go up towards the engine.
I can't tell from the pictures if that's where the pictures are taken, but from experience that's where it seems to be contact the first....

 

[1111ExpyEL1111]

On my 2012 Expy (long one) I had leaks iin the rear line. The dealer installed some type of kit that closed off the lines in the back AC. So only the front AC works now and the AC blows plenty that the 1st two rows are cool.

 

[2010ELExpy4x4]

We went through a/c issues with our 2010.
Would start to get warm, we charge it, work for a while, then warm, saw leak at the pump, replaced pump, then same thing. On a side note every once in while we would smell inside the vehicle with a/c on,what for lack of better term was band-aid smell. So decided to check the rear a/c, found lint had built up on the evaporator and that a the normal moisture caused the aluminum to corrode and made a pinhole leak.
New evaporator problem solved.
PS. Leak was so slow and small would pass a normal leak test.