Just rebuilt my 10R80 transmission and having issues

[mfreeoff]

I am new to the forum, but viewed many questions and answers, but none really help my exact problem.

I have a 2019 Ford Expedition Max/Limited 2WD

I just rebuilt my 10R80 transmission following the help of "siu automotive" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zAUFd6kqyQ
I bought the kit https://suncoastdiesel.com/i-304985...t-stock-clutch-counts-gaskets-and-filter.html
Replaced with newer CDF drum and the newer outer shell.
I also bought a new valve body and torque converter from Ford.

The rebuild process seemed straight forward.
I reset all the TCM learned codes and updated the Shift strategy.

I will now tell you the problem and then I will tell you where my rebuild seemed a little off.

I rolled out of the driveway and the transmission seemed ok for about a block, got up to about 30MPH and up to 7th gear. I got stuck in 7th for a while then bucked around and went back down to 3rd. Well now I better head back towards the house. Things were getting worse. It started acting up really bad, at one point when the transmission was upshifting from 1st to 2nd the rear tires locked up for just a second. I was not far from home now so I put the transmission into manual 1st gear so it would not try to shift to 2nd. Got home and put the truck into reverse. The truck start to reverse but it seems like the reverse brake clutches were active, because it would not roll back any further, than the few inches it did. The wrench on the dash came on and flagged these codes:

Code: P0771 - Shift Solenoid 'E' Performance/Stuck Off
Code: P2704 - Transmission Friction Element 'E' Apply Time Range/Performance
Code: P2705 - Transmission Friction Element 'F' Apply Time Range/Performance
Code: P2708 - Shift Solenoid F Stuck On


Now where things didn't seem right.
1. While installing the new Valve Body, the area around the main pump didn't feel like it was fully seated. My thought was that the rubber gasket for the cooler lines where holding it off a little and just needed to be torqued down.
2. While adding the Mercon ULV it took about 10 quarts when only about 6 came out (including what was in the old torque converter). I filled it up by added fluid to the transmission until it came up to just touch the dipstick. I then started the truck and ran it thought all the gears stopping at each one for a few seconds. I then added more fluid to get in back on the dipstick. After that I filled the transmission up to the bottom of the 6 (I have the dipstick with the numbers) while the transmission was somewhat cool in part and running. I figured it would only go up as the temperature increased putting the fluid level within range (at least that was the idea so that I don't burn myself).

Now I don't know if it's the valve body not installed correctly or I over filled the transmission.

Looking at the 10r80 clutch apply chart https://www.transmissiondigest.com/quick-peek-at-new-ford-gm-10-speed/ I am hoping that it is just a bad valve body I got or it's not installed all the way.

Maybe the rear wheel locking up was from the "reverse / brake" (clutches B, A F) are all engaging but not D?

One last note, the auto start/stop feature seems to have been disabled. Is that a feature that is depending on the valve body? Did Ford give me the wrong valve body?
Could one of the wiring harness (going into the transmission or the connector to the valve body) cause these issues? I am sure I connected them correctly, but you never know.

Any thoughts was be greatly appreciated.

Mike

 

[apex96]

Have you programmed the new valve body to the TCM? Should be a tag on the valve body with a code that you'll need to program into the TCM. Can't tell from your write-up if you have completed this or not.

 

[mfreeoff]

Sorry, I was up late and kind of frustrated. I did update the shift strategy and I reset all the TCM learned codes.

Just for my own knowledge, if the old shift strategy was still being used by the TCM, would it shift so badly that the rear wheels lockup?

 

[mfreeoff]

Just an update. I just started the truck (Transmission temp 77F) and tried reverse first and I was able to back up. I then drove 20 feet forward and tried reverse again, but no luck.

 

[SyndicateZ]

That sux! Hope for the best. You think you save money doing the work yourself and then you are worse-off after the replacement

 

[mfreeoff]

SyndicateZ, You guessed it exactly right. New torque converter $800, rebuild kit $1500, oil $100, new Valve body $400. Keeps adding up, plus my wasted time. Am I in a worse position? I don't think so. I didn't truck the truck enough to drive it. I keep telling myself at least I get an education.

I just drain the fluid and got about 5.5 quarts so I don't think it was over filled. I did find some stuff in the fluid, nothing I thought was concerning. But time will tell when I get the pan off.

 

[cekkk]

Recently saw a video on why replacing rather than rebuilding transmissions is preferable. And it was exactly because of the problem you face. You do the work but if you miss one step or something isn't exactly as it should be, you have to do it all over again.

 

[bocabimmer]

Or in my case, my Ford dealer has done two rebuilds within the past 6 months and I'm already starting to shift poorly again. I'm going to wait till it's a little worse and book my next service visit. I really want a new unit this time.

 

[mfreeoff]

I was thinking about getting a new transmission from the dealer in the first place. But when I ask them if the updated CDF drum or the updates outer shell was installed during build they could not tell me.

I figured take a chance on my build or theirs. Does anyone know how to tell if the transmission you buy from ford has the updated parts? Maybe a build date (after 2021 for example).

I would hate to get one that has been sitting on the shelf for years, of they were still using the old CDF drum at the time of build.

Update:

I split the valve body in half and found a little debris, something that that look like a very small hair ball. I cleaned it up and tested and clean all the valves. I did not test the solenoids. I put the valve body back in and put 10 new quarts of ULV in the transmission. So the problem is still there. While the truck is raised off all four tires it will go and spin the tires in reverse for just a little bit and then stop. Also the transmission has no problems going into 1st gear, but will not spin in 2nd gear. I tested this but putting the trans into manual M1 and M2.

Looking at the attached Clutch Apply chart, do you think I have messed up the 'D' clutch or could the valve body still be the issue. Would taking the valve body back out and "air test" the 'D' clutch give me any pointers?

Thanks

 

[apex96]

I was thinking about getting a new transmission from the dealer in the first place. But when I ask them if the updated CDF drum or the updates outer shell was installed during build they could not tell me.

I figured take a chance on my build or theirs. Does anyone know how to tell if the transmission you buy from ford has the updated parts? Maybe a build date (after 2021 for example).

I would hate to get one that has been sitting on the shelf for years, of they were still using the old CDF drum at the time of build.

If it's got a build date of 2022 or later you should be okay.

If you've got a way to bring it up to western PA, there's a shop close to me that rebuilds/bullet proofs these 10r80s. Guy is a ford master tech. Link below.

Richardson Performance LLC | Rices Landing PA

Richardson Performance LLC, Rices Landing, Pennsylvania. 561 likes · 54 talking about this · 3 were here. Performance shop based south of Pittsburgh, Pa. Widely known for our Stage 2 Built 10r80s but...

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