Just rebuilt my 10R80 transmission and having issues

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mfreeoff

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As promised an update:

So got the transmission installed and filled up the to correctly level at 190 degrees (I left it a tad bit low for the extra 10 to 20 degrees). At first it shifted a little rough then started smoothing out. If I drive the truck very slow I notice it shifts a little harder. But if I get on it like a normal driver, it shifts great all the way up to 10 gear.

Now my issue. When I put it into reverse, it will go but I have to give it a little gas and it pluses. After putting it into drive and reverse a few time it will flag a message stating "Gear Selected will Engage at Low Speed" .

The shift from PARK to DRIVE make a clunk and also does it will going from PARK to REVERSE. I did read this TSB https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10177036-0001.pdf

Now the TSB is for a 2020 Transit but the symptoms are just like mine. I am thinking of taking it to Ford and ask them to do a "Transmission Accelerated Main Control Break-In routine".

Does anyone know if replacing the Valve Body would supersede a "Transmission Accelerated Main Control Break-In routine"? I am thinking they might charge the same amount as a new Valve Body. The Valve Body that is in there right now, I took apart and found a little bit of stuff inside around the SS1 and SS6 solenoids (responsible for the 'A' and 'F' clutch).

I am thankful for any thoughts!!
 
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mfreeoff

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Went out for another drive without doing any work on it. Put it in Sport Mode and it drove like a dream. Would not get above 7th gear, but I am guessing that is by design. Reverse is a little better, still have to give it some gas to start moving. I have read that some people stating that it could take about 2,000 miles before it start smoothing out. It that moment I feel I can trust the truck enough to start driving it.

Another update:

In Sport Mode, it will get above 7th gear, I just had to go over 70MPH. Also I learned that the Transmission Accelerated Main Control Break-In actually Breaks-In the valve body. I am sure the pistons that control the fluid needs to be broken in so that the pistons will move more freely. I have been driving the truck in Sport Mode so that the truck has to go into all the gears. The truck is definitely getting better. I feel safe driving it. However I am still a little concerned about Reverse. After a long drive I tried Reverse and it gave me the same message "Gear Selected will Engage at Low Speed" I turned the truck off and then back on again, then it went into Reverse.

Many forum I have been reading state that I need to put around 1000 miles on it before the valve body breaks-in. I guess I could take it to Ford and have them do the Accelerated Main Control Break-In so that I don't have to wait that many miles.
 
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slow3v

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Following this. Not sure if what you are experiencing symptoms wise is going to smooth out, hope it does.
 
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mfreeoff

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Slow3v, If you don't think the symptoms will go away, do you think I might need to replace the valve body again, or something more dramatic?
 
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5280tunage

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Not sure if this helps at all, but when I got mine back from the dealer after getting a brand new tranny, it only had an extra 5 miles on it, which is also a little scary. Given the number of times it likely went into the shop and back to the yard, that means they likely only tested it 3-4 miles. But the reason I say that is the break in period thing. I still have some funkiness, once in a while, for example at extremely slow speeds like creeping in a parking lot, under essentially idle, I get some pretty rough shifts, but otherwise it's been pretty good.

Hopefully yours gets better as you break it in, but I'm not sure if the "Accelerated" break in procedure just electronically activates all of the valves or what, maybe they did something like that instead of driving it, but it definitely wasn't driven much.
 
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mfreeoff

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That sounds just like mine. I was afraid to drive it normally so I drove it around the block very slow and it would shift hard. I was getting a little frustrated so I drove it home like I would normally drive it and it shifted fine. I have driven it about 10 miles or so and it has gotten a lot better a lower speeds.
From what I understand the Accelerated Break-in just runs the Solenoids back and forth really fast to move the pistons that regulate the transmission fluid. It's the pistons that need to be broken-in.
I read on one forum that it is suggested to run the truck in Sport Mode so that the pistons get more use. In Sport Mode the transmission has to go through every gear and not do its normal skipping of gears.
My reverse is working great now, so I really think it's done. I will just have to see if it lasts as long as yours.
 

SyndicateZ

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At creeping low speeds and slow acceleration, the 10R80 seems to have rough "confused" shifts. I think its "normal" for these PITA transmissions at this point
 
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mfreeoff

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Yeah, I have not driven it much yet. Been waiting on a new torque converter cover (the cover you have to "break off" to get to the torque converter nuts). I will keep you updated when I drive it to work on Wednesday.

Also my transmission started doing the whine everyone reports ( SSM 51939 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10243648-0001.pdf ). The old transmission never did it. It only whines in 1st gear and maybe a little in 2nd. Sounds like a school bus transmission.
 
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mfreeoff

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Ford dealer did not receive my torque converter cover. So waiting until tomorrow to install and drive to work on Thursday. I have a question for anyone that might answer this.

I would like to replace the Start/Stop pump filter, but ford only sell the whole pump. Does anyone know a part number? The best I can come up with is part # HL3P-7P086 but for says that is the whole pump. I did find that Raybestos sells just the filter, but would you trust Raybestos for filters (link below)? I know their brake part are ok.

I did take the filter out, and like everything else, it was dirty.


Mike
 

PharmerScott

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Wondering if your model has an external bypass valve that might have been stuck shut. Ive got my 2019 f150 10r80 torn out of my truck at the moment doing a complete overhaul. Im not replacing the valve body, Im going to clean it, rebore it and reseal it. But in my research I came across a ford blue oval article that stated that after doing any work to these transmissions that the coolant lines need to be flushed (not just adding fluid at 190* temp but actually purged so that the thermostatic valve will actually work properly again. IDK. Im just a diyer not afraid to get into shit and i enjoy the process. Hope everything works itself out for you.
 
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