LED vs Non-LED OEM tail lights

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TimberExpy

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There are plenty of threads on here that advise a simple and direct/plug-n-play swap of the OEM incandescent taillights for the OEM LED taillights can’t happen, unless FORScan is used and/or a special harness or resistor pack is added, etc etc.

But, can anyone explain to me why this is the case? I mean, what is the actual hardware (or software?) difference between an XLT and a Platinum that makes a “simple” swap not possible?

I’m still annoyed about dropping over $83k pre-tax on a Timberline that has ridiculous conventional incandescent tail lights.
 

JAMADOR

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Following, I remember similar on the F150 2015+ that it wasn't a simple plug & play swap, but don't recall the ins & outs of it.
 

LazSlate

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I used to go down the LED obsession with my older cars. But the Timberline I have (yes they should have been factory rear LEDs) does not bother me. I never ever see the tail lights on and I am not concerned with what drivers behind me see. In reality there is nothing wrong with incandescent when it comes to rear and side lights. Those who cite the quick illumination of the brakes, the 3rd light is LED. Just seems to me a lot of work and money for something that I will never benefit from.
 

USKflt

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There are plenty of threads on here that advise a simple and direct/plug-n-play swap of the OEM incandescent taillights for the OEM LED taillights can’t happen, unless FORScan is used and/or a special harness or resistor pack is added, etc etc.

But, can anyone explain to me why this is the case? I mean, what is the actual hardware (or software?) difference between an XLT and a Platinum that makes a “simple” swap not possible?

I’m still annoyed about dropping over $83k pre-tax on a Timberline that has ridiculous conventional incandescent tail lights.
The bulb is the biggest difference (LED vs incandescent). The incandescent has more draw than an LED. So when you swap to LED, the vehicle thinks the bulb is burnt out or not functioning and hyperflashes. That’s what the resistor is for. If you don’t want to put in a resistor that could potentially get really hot, you go into Forescan and disable the bulb out indicators so it quits monitoring for the bulbs.
 

Gumby

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Front and rear LED lights are problematic in the winter. They do not heat up enough to melt and snow/sleet from building up on the lense surface. Often I see other vehicles with taillights so crusted with snow that it is impossible to see a turn signal or when the brakes are on. Dangerous! But that being said, I prefer the brighter output by LEDs and the more sleek look of the lenses. *shrug*
 
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TimberExpy

TimberExpy

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The bulb is the biggest difference (LED vs incandescent). The incandescent has more draw than an LED. So when you swap to LED, the vehicle thinks the bulb is burnt out or not functioning and hyperflashes. That’s what the resistor is for. If you don’t want to put in a resistor that could potentially get really hot, you go into Forescan and disable the bulb out indicators so it quits monitoring for the bulbs.
I understand the difference in electrical resistance in incandescent vs LED, but this doesn’t really explain why a swap would not work if the same fixture is being used in the higher Expy trims.

An example of what I mean: Let’s say the incandescent fixture’s turn signal is creating, hypothetically, 1 ohm of resistance that is “expected” by the trucks computer when the bulb illuminates. If the bulb/fixture is then swapped with an LED that’s creating less than expected current draw (ie, more resistance at same voltage?), then of course the computer would detect the difference and possibly throw a code.

So then, why doesn’t the computer with the factory OEM LEDS throw a code?!? Is it because THAT computer is programmed to different parameters?

We’ve already established that the entire OEM LED fixture itself doesn’t create the proper draw, so does Ford add an in-line resistor somewhere along the electrical path on the higher trims?

This is what I mean by “differences” between the trims.
 
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TimberExpy

TimberExpy

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I used to go down the LED obsession with my older cars. But the Timberline I have (yes they should have been factory rear LEDs) does not bother me. I never ever see the tail lights on and I am not concerned with what drivers behind me see. In reality there is nothing wrong with incandescent when it comes to rear and side lights. Those who cite the quick illumination of the brakes, the 3rd light is LED. Just seems to me a lot of work and money for something that I will never benefit from.

You’re not wrong.

But I guess I associate LED lighting with more premium vehicles, and I certainly feel that we paid a premium price.
 

LazSlate

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You’re not wrong.

But I guess I associate LED lighting with more premium vehicles, and I certainly feel that we paid a premium price.
100% agree. Why they did not put LED makes no sense what so ever.
 

USKflt

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I understand the difference in electrical resistance in incandescent vs LED, but this doesn’t really explain why a swap would not work if the same fixture is being used in the higher Expy trims.

An example of what I mean: Let’s say the incandescent fixture’s turn signal is creating, hypothetically, 1 ohm of resistance that is “expected” by the trucks computer when the bulb illuminates. If the bulb/fixture is then swapped with an LED that’s creating less than expected current draw (ie, more resistance at same voltage?), then of course the computer would detect the difference and possibly throw a code.

So then, why doesn’t the computer with the factory OEM LEDS throw a code?!? Is it because THAT computer is programmed to different parameters?

We’ve already established that the entire OEM LED fixture itself doesn’t create the proper draw, so does Ford add an in-line resistor somewhere along the electrical path on the higher trims?

This is what I mean by “differences” between the trims.
It’s likely one of two things. Either they’re calibrated to sense a smaller draw, or the LED vehicles have bulb out detection disabled like you would do in Forescan. Only way to tell would be to compare the as-built module data from two similar vehicles. I’ve never had an LED tail fail to know if it still throws a warning or hyperflashes.
 

2020FordRaptor

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There are plenty of threads on here that advise a simple and direct/plug-n-play swap of the OEM incandescent taillights for the OEM LED taillights can’t happen, unless FORScan is used and/or a special harness or resistor pack is added, etc etc.

But, can anyone explain to me why this is the case? I mean, what is the actual hardware (or software?) difference between an XLT and a Platinum that makes a “simple” swap not possible?

I’m still annoyed about dropping over $83k pre-tax on a Timberline that has ridiculous conventional incandescent tail lights.
I frankly don't seem to figure out why you would want LED taillights over stock ones I wouldn't see the difference. The incandescent were bright enough for me
 
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