Lower blend door solutions?

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Fasttimes

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I've had the dreaded lower blend door clicking going on 2 years now in my 2010 EB Expy. I've debated doing the job, paying someone to do the job, or leaving it as is. There just seems no easy way to correct it and I'm considering selling the vehicle but would hate to take the hit on it fixing it and can't imagine it'll go well to seller. On top of that I still have a sunroof to fix and that is giving me heartburn just thinking about that job.

We know the dealer will charge >$1000 for this blend door job. Do-it-yourself looks to be a hodgepodge of stripping out center console, cutting duct-work, prying up stuff, and perhaps getting one bolt on new part and hope it all comes back together cleanly. I have yet to see a definitive set of instructions to do this job at home on an Expedition.

Question I have is there some way to just delete the blend door completely? Any obvious way to cut power to it to have it stop clicking on start up?
 

lbv150

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This info may help others.... I only done '04 - '06 models changing the blend door motor and it took 30 minutes after the learning curve of 50 minutes on the first one, where the stealership wanted 8 hours...what makes the motors go bad is setting the temp selector either all cold or hot. Set it slightly off the stop setting and the life of the motor gear is extended - this is design flaw from Ford. It's not that the electric motor is bad but the plastic gear strips, that is the clicking sound. This same info applies to the rear.
 

Ellison Brown III

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It’s too easy... try these instructions I’ve included from a forum I found some years ago. I’ve done both the blend door (controls hot/ cold), and mode door (controls air coming from above, below, or both. These are the steps I used for my old ‘04 Eddie Bauer. Can’t imagine them much different.

OH!!!... Before I forget. If you ever have to do the blend door actuator, located in the rear cargo area on the right side, DO NOT pull your entire rear seat, and panel out. It can be replaced by accessing it from the top of that panel. Just pop the plastic tray, and work from above.

Tools Required: 5/16" socket (small driver is better than larger in my opinion), phillips screwdriver, Torque head socket, and maybe a flathead to jimmy the trim off in some spots.
Parts Required: Got mine from Oriellly Auto Parts ($34) it's a Dorman Heater Blend Door Acutator:

Part # 604-213- lower
Part # 604-202- upper

"Easy" One
1. Simply Pop off the Long Change/crap holder underneath the rear passenger side glass. (Snaps right out with a little pressure but be careful).
2. Turn on your car and adjust the Rear A/C until you hear the thumping.
3. You will see the Rear A/C unit and right on top is an White/Opaque square box. Unplug the wiring harness from this box and see if it stops. If it does you are in luck! If not see "Hard" One
4. Pop out the cup holder just in front of the open trim hole (you will need to to get another hand in there)
5. Use your 5/16" socket and remove. Place the new part in it's place.
6. Make sure you align the pin (Do this by pluging the wiring harness into the new unit and have someone adjust the Hot/Cold until the pin lines up and the new actuator slips in correctly and the bolt hoes line up.
7. Bolt in and Test....Replace the trim and you are done.

'Hard" One
1. Do above procedure until step 3 if the thumping does not stop put the wiring harness back in "Easy" one and locate the 2nd actuator which is a little farther forward and along the side next to the trim. Disconnect that wiring harness and verify the thumping stops. If it does not stop...Sorry you are SOL for this thread. If it does stop, make sure you have a couple hours to devote to replacing this. If you don't just leave it disconnected until you have time (at least the thumping has stopped but you will likely have drastic temps in the rear)
2. Now you basically need to remove the rear trim panel enough to get the space to remove this unit.
3. Below is the order I would take the trim off...Just need a little force to get the clips out
A-remove the spare tire lid, and jack
B- remove the skid trim
C- remove the black jack liner 5/16" socket and a rubber gasket and it snaps out
D- remove the top center trim
E- Use Torque head socket to remove the top seat belt bolt
F- unscrew the plastic screw which hold down the rear panel trim "ear" to the frame
G- snap off the upper Corner post trim enough to get the rear panel snapped out
H- snap off the rear panel enough so you have some room to work (there won't be much but there is enough to get in there) otherwise you will have to take the entire panel off which I did not do.
4. Unbolt the actuator 5/16" socket Qty 4
5. Place the new part in it's place.
6. Make sure you align the pin (Do this by plugging the wiring harness into the new unit and have someone adjust the Hot/Cold until the pin lines up and the new actuator slips in correctly and the bolt hoes line up.
7. Bolt in and test... replace the trim, and your done.
 
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If it's the temperature door, it's not so bad. It's below the radio. I have the same truck and replaced it about 2 years ago.
 

GAINMOB

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if u pay...PAY ME!!! took me 10 mins to remove the panel...2 screws...10 minutes back together...i will say though...since u have it open...CHANGE BOTH!!! dont change the one that's only clicking...$50 buys both!!!
 
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Fasttimes

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I did this job this weekend and it was an absolute nightmare. This is the blend door motor that is all the way at the bottom of the dash up against the firewall and is a huge pain in the rear to get out. The dealer proper job requires dash removal, fluids and heater-core removal and about $1200-$1500 when all is said and done. I watched any videos I could find but none were an exact match to my Eddie Bauer model Expy. There is a video for F150 that is close, but the center console removal was different as well as the execution of removing the old motor.

To make this work I had to use a saws-all with an extended blade and a mini hack-saw as well. Removed center console, cut out the ac ducting under the seats, cut strut on left of blend motor, cut off lower heat duct on passenger side, broke out motor. Once motor in it was time to band-aid this back together. Blend motor back in minus one screw, heat/ac vent to front passenger wheel well put together with epoxy, and rear-seat duct work but back together with duct-tape.

Pain in rear. It's working as it should be, but man, I thought the sun-roof repair I did the weekend before was hard, this took the cake.
 

GAINMOB

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they dont remove the dash...they squeeze in there and fight to change it...according to the ford mechanic i spoke to
 

Ellison Brown III

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they dont remove the dash...they squeeze in there and fight to change it...according to the ford mechanic i spoke to

Makes sense for a business; knock it out quick, then move on to the next task. Wonder if they charge the man hours the task calls for, or how long it actually took them… I think we all know the answer to that question.

My coworker, and I, did this repair for a female coworker on a Nissan Titan… OMG!!! We pulled the entire dash at work. Pretty involved as you can imagine. After she was telling us she’s been driving for four years without heat, needing blankets to stay warm while driving, and using this microfiber squeegee to wipe off the fogged up windshield will she was driving I couldn’t take it anymore.

We got he back up in running with heat. She was ecstatic!!! As we were reassembling the dash we noticed a route we could have taken without removing the dash. Would’ve been tight. Would’ve made for a lot of cussing, but might’ve been the easier route, overall. I say overall because getting the hardware out/in, and lining up the worm gear would be challenging to say the least.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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This info may help others.... I only done '04 - '06 models changing the blend door motor and it took 30 minutes after the learning curve of 50 minutes on the first one, where the stealership wanted 8 hours...what makes the motors go bad is setting the temp selector either all cold or hot. Set it slightly off the stop setting and the life of the motor gear is extended - this is design flaw from Ford. It's not that the electric motor is bad but the plastic gear strips, that is the clicking sound. This same info applies to the rear.

You're not doing this one in 30 minutes.

 

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