No Crank No Start Condition - Resolved

[juan214]

The usual condition just needs some input. Remote start stopped working (not concerned over it). Went out for a few hours, at last, got out ran errand came back no start, no crack. Everything inside works and the headlight lights are fine. Solenoid only clicks once. Pretty sure its the starter it was new five years ago.

Jump:

• No Start

Ignition:

• Key jiggle didn't do anything (testing cylinder contacts).
• The gear selector is not sloppy, dropped selector to each gear no start in any gear (Testing Neutral Safety Switch/Ignition Switch)

Motor:

• Oil level is fine between the pin holes (needs a change though).
• Not Seized, cranked both ways until compression built.

Ignition Wire Harness:

• Yellow: Constant 12 volts
• Lt. Green w/ Purple: Constant 12 volts
• Blue w/ Lt. Green: Ignition #1 12 volts
• Grey w/ yellow: Accessory 12 volts (run)
• Red w/ Lt. Blue: Starter 12 volts

Battery:

• No corrosion on either post.
• Tested battery 12.6 volts. Load tested shows it needs a charge.
• Ran continuity on both posts to clamps, to battery tender (its fuse and inputs), cable just after clamps, positive post to the solenoid all tested to 0.0,

Solenoid test:

• 12.6 volts battery post to cable before the solenoid, at the solenoid bottom post, and cable after the solenoid
• Negative post to the ground at the solenoid all tested to 0.1.
• The Ignition wire into solenoid shows 0.0 volts at rest, 11.9+ engaged, and current at about 3.9 volts at rest until drained (sound right)?.
• The top post shows 0.0 at rest, 11.9+ volts engaged and slicks once, and 0.0 volts at rest.
• Old School: Jumping the solenoid does nothing except slight arcing no starter engagement. Jumpstart the same, no start.
• Direct jump to starter post does not engage the starter (but did click once)

Starter:

• Banged on start hit remote start nothing
• Turned ignition switch nothing
• !2 volts constant reaching starter post.
• Ground transfer from cable to engine and transmission bolt OK
• The ground on starter motor OK
• Starter wire gets 12 volts on start position.

Bench Test:

• Time to pull the starter

Thanks in advance

 

[stamp11127]

Hit the starter body with a hammer and try again. Give it a good whack but don't destroy it.

A battery that reads 12.6v is at 100% state of charge - no need to charge.

Best tests to run are voltage drop, the rest are generally a waste of time.

Current is measured in amps not volts, really no need to know current draw anywhere except the cables to the high current side of the starter. Since it isn't spinning....

 

[1955moose]

Your describing a failed starter. Pull it, and bench test it. Straight 12 volts from a battery to the positive post, and ground to side that bolts up to motor. If your starters good, the starter motor will spin easily, if not overheated/ frozen starter. Whack it before removing as Stamp said. You might get a turn or 2 out of starter. I use a heavy plastic hammer with pellet shots inside. Or a hunk of 2x4 wood hit with a steel hammer.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[juan214]

Hey Rich,
Thanks for answering. Just checked it's not seized. The starter was next on the list. I tried it yesterday but today is a new day crawling under there for a whack or two. Going to use and tap it.

Thanks, moose I know soft blows

I'm betting it is the starter it is five years old just going through the flow.

 

[juan214]

Starter:
I did get one click from the starter yesterday and one this morning.

• Banged on the starter with the plastic end on my 1/2" ratchet, hit remote start nothing
• Turned ignition switch still nothing

Solenoid:

• Shouldn't the solenoid be sounding even if the starter is junk/seized? It's currently intermittent.

Crawling back to make sure it's not a connection issue.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Did you check for power at the starter? How about checking the wires going to starter? There has been more than one post here on how they corrode inside of the insulation and look fine from the outside.

 

[Trainmaster]

Solenoid on firewall should be a solid click each time you turn the key. Make sure you jumped the big terminals on it good when you shorted them. Then check all your heavy terminal nuts. Have someone hold the key in start if you can and hit that starter good, as Stamp says. Rap it like you mean it. Use the end of a pipe if you have to.

In case you don't know, the key to getting the top bolt out of the starter (if someone put it back in) is to use about 20" of extensions.

 

[1955moose]

He did that in original post #1, solenoid test.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[juan214]

Starter:
I did get one click from the starter yesterday and one this morning.

• Banged on the starter with the plastic end on my 1/2" ratchet, hit remote start nothing
• Turned ignition switch still nothing

Solenoid:

• Shouldn't the solenoid be sounding even if the starter is junk/seized? It's currently intermittent.

Power to Starter:

• !2 volts constant reaching starter post.
• Ground transfer from cable to engine and transmission bolt OK
• The ground on starter motor OK
• Starter wire gets 12 volts on start position.

Time to pull the starter and bench test it, yippy.

No rush repair now to contemplate $125.00 Remanufactured w/1-year warranty to $182.00 w/ limited warranty new (LOL) at a parts store or $35.00 off eBay for a new lifetime warranty.

 

[stamp11127]

I'm a firm believer in fixing it once and move on. Used parts are a roll of the dice unless you know the history of them.