No Crank No Start Condition - Resolved

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juan214

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Going to go crank it again see what happens. Started right up no issues, no smoke, battery charging 14.64 volts
 

1955moose

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But why did it crank Everytime at the parts store? Shouldn't it have done just the click? Told you it would end up simple/stupid. They always are. Have to remember this one.

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But why did it crank Everytime at the parts store? Shouldn't it have done just the click? Told you it would end up simple/stupid. They always are. Have to remember this one.

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That was one of my questions on one of the earlier posts. They must be putting more than 12 volts or more amps to the starter (Rich would probably know better). Just like using two batteries in a series for more amps. When they test it must be jumping across the connections to make contact like an arc.

Definitely, one for the books my truck has never been down for more than 24 hours except for a motor or tranny. This was a vacation for the Biotch needed it though

Now onto the next project need to find a stumble (plug or COP) no code though.
 
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Thank you:
Rich, Moose, and Yupster

Again, another mystery solved by the Mystery gang

Thanks, guys
 

stamp11127

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What is really sad is the number of times the starter was removed and the connections were not checked.

Loose connections will usually smoke when large amounts of current are passed through them.

The process of removing the starter may have moved the connection enough to work when tested.
 

1955moose

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Now you know why I said can you bring a starter home, and return it if it doesn't work. It only took 75 posts. I feel like I need a cigarette now, and I don't smoke!

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juan214

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What is really sad is the number of times the starter was removed and the connections were not checked.

Loose connections will usually smoke when large amounts of current are passed through them.

The process of removing the starter may have moved the connection enough to work when tested.
It was only taken out twice. glad I checked it before the second install. It wasn't a loose connection, it was tight I couldn't even remove the nut there must have not been enough contact I retightened and it made contact.
 
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juan214

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Now you know why I said can you bring a starter home, and return it if it doesn't work. It only took 75 posts. I feel like I need a cigarette now, and I don't smoke!

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I wish, electrical parts and installed part are not returnable around here.
 

stamp11127

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Since you state the brush lead that connects to the lower solenoid stud was tight, the problem may be in the wire, ring terminal connection or connection to the brushes/holder inside the starter.

"You ain't out of the woods yet Bubba"
 
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juan214

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Since you state the brush lead that connects to the lower solenoid stud was tight, the problem may be in the wire, ring terminal connection or connection to the brushes/holder inside the starter.

"You ain't out of the woods yet Bubba"
Its the ring terminal connection or the stud/nut not making contact. I cranked to get the split washer to bite in more.

At least we know where the issue is. I can order a new relay switch and attempt a cleaning if the stud breaks I can swap out the Solenoid switch for $16.00

If it breaks down in the woods we are having a campfire, just kidin'
 
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