No Crank No Start Condition - Resolved

[Plati]

I used to have a 1967 Chevy Van that I had to start with a big ole screwdriver. I'd turn the key and climb under, reach up, and short out two terminals on the solenoid. Made some sparks but I got good at it to minimize that. Would happen randomly for years. I guess it was the neutral safety switch, once had it in drive and it started and started to drive forward. Used to have to climb underneath in traffic in winter in puddles whatever. My green army coat didn't care, could handle that. The good old days.

 

[stamp11127]

I'd put the new/rebuilt starter in and not look back.

 

[1955moose]

Chalk it up to lesson learned, and teaching old dog's new tricks. Once your up and running you laugh and laugh, until something else pops up! As my girlfriend used to say as I worked on her Toyota, it's always something. Never ends until you croak.

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[Rich_007]

That was one of my questions on one of the earlier posts. They must be putting more than 12 volts or more amps to the starter (Rich would probably know better). Just like using two batteries in a series for more amps. When they test it must be jumping across the connections to make contact like an arc.

Definitely, one for the books my truck has never been down for more than 24 hours except for a motor or tranny. This was a vacation for the Biotch needed it though

Now onto the next project need to find a stumble (plug or COP) no code though.

FYI: your comment about wiring in series for more amps is incorrect. Series the voltage is additive, parallel the amps are additive.

 

[1955moose]

Yep, just like when you run a second set of speakers in parallel, it drops the impedance/load in half. A 4 ohm set of 6x8 inch car speakers turns into 2 ohms when you tie the positive and negative together, then feed them to the same amplifier. It sounds louder, boomier, but the amplifier overheats, and pops a transistor or 2, shutting the amp down. Same thing goes for any circuit like Juan's starter. I think why his starter cranked at Oreillys, and not his 12 volt battery, was the 120 volt to 12 volt converter, must have had way more amperage, that somehow jumped that bad copper connection on his wonky starter. That sucks, because look at what all of us went through! It should be the opposite, these parts conglomerates want to sell parts.

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[juan214]

I used to have a 1967 Chevy Van that I had to start with a big ole screwdriver. I'd turn the key and climb under, reach up, and short out two terminals on the solenoid. Made some sparks but I got good at it to minimize that. Would happen randomly for years. I guess it was the neutral safety switch, once had it in drive and it started and started to drive forward. Used to have to climb underneath in traffic in winter in puddles whatever. My green army coat didn't care, could handle that. The good old days.

Been very lucky no starter issues in almost 25 years, My old Dickies Jacket isn't prejudiced of the weather either she's starting to show her age though.

 

[juan214]

I'd put the new/rebuilt starter in and not look back.

Order one two days ago from Florida, it's already in route. It should be here by Saturday guaranteed if not I get a $5.00 credit. I sold enough used parts for Expeditions in the last two weeks to more than covers the cost of a new starter. I'll let this one ride out until it craps out again. When it craps out I'll tinker with it (if I have time) and try to take that nut off if it breaks it breaks. If it doesn't break clean it up put some dielectric compound on it. If it breaks maybe I'll order a new Solenoid Relay switch if it does and swap it out, keep it for a spare starter or sell it on eBay and recoup the money spent.

The original starter was swapped out because the Solenoid Post broke off back when I did the engine swap.

 

[juan214]

Chalk it up to lesson learned, and teaching old dog's new tricks. Once your up and running you laugh and laugh, until something else pops up! As my girlfriend used to say as I worked on her Toyota, it's always something. Never ends until you croak.

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True, True vehicles never die until you do.

 

[juan214]

FYI: your comment about wiring in series for more amps is incorrect. Series the voltage is additive, parallel the amps are additive.

I knew it was one of the two couldn't remember had a major brain fart trying to.

 

[juan214]

I think why his starter cranked at Oreillys, and not his 12 volt battery, was the 120 volt to 12 volt converter, must have had way more amperage, that somehow jumped that bad copper connection on his wonky starter. That sucks, because look at what all of us went through! It should be the opposite, these parts conglomerates want to sell parts.

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Three times checked at three different parts stores and it passed all three times. Ask them how many amps the machine is putting out and they are clueless.