Oil Filter Adapter Gasket Replacement

[donl]

OK, before anyone starts, I have completed a search and reviewed several threads on this topic but most don't apply to an '03 4.6L 2WD Expedition. Most of the threads I have read and many of the YouTube videos I have watched, some of the DIY guys drained the oil and the coolant but most just drained the coolant. I did watch one video, Falcon's Garage, where he did not drain either. The vehicle was an '03 5.4L 2WD Navigator; no different than an '03 4.6L 2WD Expedition. He removed the oil filter, the plastic piece below the oil filter and clamped the lower hose where it runs under the radiator so there was some drainage when the hose came off but not much. He was able to get to all four bolts with a 3/8" ratchet and socket, no extensions, wobblers, etc. When the bolts came out, the adapter was held loosely in place by the two smaller oil cooler hoses connecting to the backside of the adapter. The old gasket basically fell out when the adapter was pulled back. He slid in the new gasket, bolted all back up, reconnected and unclamped the large coolant hose, installed a new oil filter. The job was done in less than an hour. My vehicle has about 185K miles and there is a drip from that gasket, I have cleaned the area up and am sure the gasket needs to be replaced. I plan to follow Falcon's procedure but wanted to get thoughts, comments, etc. on Falcon's procedure and/or from any members that have made this repair on a 4.6L 2WD '03 Expedition. The only issue I can see could be that if the gasket doesn't come out cleanly and sticks to one surface or the other, I am not sure how much room is available between the adapter and the block to properly clean the two mating surfaces.

 

[AWAR]

Drain the cooling system, the block is full of coolant. The pressure tank hose comes in the top and the lower radiator hose comes off the side facing the frame. Two wheel drives are easy to work on. I would remove the lower radiator hose for access and to make sure all the coolant is out. The gasket is plastic with rubber seals, the plastic cracks over time. I assume it is leaking oil not coolant. I would replace the oil pressure sensor while you are there. It screws into the filter adaptor.

 

[donl]

Thanks for the reply and yes, it is leaking oil, not bad yet but will get worse. Why drain the cooling system? In the Falcon's Garage video, Falcon pinched the lower hose, the larger hose connecting to the adapter, where it runs in front of the radiator. The only coolant that drained out was whatever was in that hose from the pinch point, not much. I don't mind draining the coolant as it has been a while but I would prefer to do that another time and not part of this project. If you have made this repair without removing he adapter, how did you clean/prep the mating surfaces of the adapter to the block? Or did the gasket come out cleanly and no surface cleaning or prep was necessary?

 

[AWAR]

Look at the gasket pictured, the large hole is coolant. Coolant is on both sides of this gasket. In the hoses and inside the engine, it will drain the driver’s side of the block and that head. Coolant goes everywhere and I hate coolant, I would rather clean up an oil spill.

Both sides of the gasket clean up fairly easily. It is not a paper gasket that needs to be scraped like the old days. There is still some cleanup but it is easy to do.

I am a retired professional mechanic and busy now with a 2006 Expedition on the hoist.

 

[donl]

Thanks again for the reply. I understand. However and with the respect of a shade tree hack to a professional, if the engine is cold, coolant system not pressurized and radiator cap in place, wouldn't the internal vacuum on the system keep the coolant on the driver's side in the engine block?

 

[AWAR]

No, gravity will drain the engine.

 

[BigRed2004]

I have done this on my daughter’s 05 Town Car. You’ll 100% want to drain the coolant system. And I highly recommend draining the block from the side coolant plug. You want to make sure as much coolant is below the oil holes as possible. Otherwise you risk coolant getting into your oil pan. Then you are doing another job you didn’t plan for. If this is the original gasket there will probably be material left behind and you’ll see some pitting on the block. Clean the surface to the best of your ability and the adapter body as well. You want both surfaces as smooth as can be. I would then recommend some 90 minute grey RTV as well. Placing a thin layer on the block and adapter housing to shore up any gaps caused by pitting.

These are the videos I watched before performing the Town Car:

2001 F150 - Oil Filter Adapter Plate Gasket Replacement

Get Free Shipping and save 25% on Amsoil: https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc.aspx?zo=10458Find AMSOIL products for your vehicle: http://insaneoil.com/Learn how...

youtu.be

Ford Triton 5.4 engine oil leak from oil filter housing.

IF THIS VIDEO HELPED YOU OR SOMEONE ELSE, CLICK HERE TO DONATE SO I CAN CONTINUE TO SHARE VIDEOS. (THANK YOU)https://checkout.square.site/pay/22b0bf6c56ff41a...

youtu.be

If you choose to go the pinch the hose route, I hope it works for you. Good luck!

 

[donl]

After talking this over with my trusted tech that has done most of major repairs which have been few and all of the aftermarket work, I have decided to outsource this repair. He completely removes the adapter which is truly the "professional" repair procedure. When considering that even as a DiY project, I should follow that procedure being a physically fit individual but would spend the entire repair on my back, under the vehicle; collecting and disposing of oil and coolant (Expy is ready for an oil change as well) all to save a few hundred dollars that I have; cost benefit just didnt' compute for me. I do appreciate the feedback from forum members that also contributed to the decision to outsource. I used to look forward to and enjoy repairs like this but as I get older, not so much.