PO500 story continues with new twist

[Billme]

Well I’m back at it again.. I’m going to just let Grok guide me.. I’m curious..
Here is the conversation

https://x.com/i/grok/share/Yy2aCcHs6nXbAu17NfZlEn5mH

 

[jr1under]

Probably unrelated to your P0500 but I'm curious about the 'B' code circuit failures that BlueDriver is showing. I'm trying to resolve B1318-Battery Voltage Low(which I'm almost certain is valid) and grok is 100% sure it's caused by the door ajar circuit failure. However, there are no indications that anything is wrong with that circuit; all the lights turn on and off as expected and none stay on for more than a few seconds after the doors close. As grok recommended, I doused all six door latches with WD-40 but nothing changed.

I'm not questioning grok's analysis so much as wondering about BlueDriver's scan results. It seems doubtful that a 'circuit failure' would allow all the components on that circuit to work as designed. As usual, there's probably something I don't fully understand and I'd like to hear what it is.

 

[Billme]

Yours is basically my situation except I see the effects ..
I confirmed with Grok like you everything still works, but he confirmed that the first code is the culprit somehow, even intermittently because of the voltage sensitivity of the Gems..
Believe me, I’m still scratching my head on this.. In your case, I would tell grok, ok I did what you said and it didn’t work.. Most likely you need to go upstream to the next connector and inspect that..
I’m surprised how one thing can effect so many systems and still manage to work..
In my case the multi switch threw the first code, thank goodness I remembered that on my last trip, I remember clicking my high beam to let a trucker come back in the travel lane, so grok may be right.. I cleared the codes but haven’t undone the battery yet due to the cold weather..
We’ll see..

 

[Billme]

Probably unrelated to your P0500 but I'm curious about the 'B' code circuit failures that BlueDriver is showing. I'm trying to resolve B1318-Battery Voltage Low(which I'm almost certain is valid) and grok is 100% sure it's caused by the door ajar circuit failure. However, there are no indications that anything is wrong with that circuit; all the lights turn on and off as expected and none stay on for more than a few seconds after the doors close. As grok recommended, I doused all six door latches with WD-40 but nothing changed.

I'm not questioning grok's analysis so much as wondering about BlueDriver's scan results. It seems doubtful that a 'circuit failure' would allow all the components on that circuit to work as designed. As usual, there's probably something I don't fully understand and I'd like to hear what it is.

I went back and ask grok about your situation.. Interesting read

https://x.com/i/grok/share/JHt87LvBUOA8OdEAEOCMAHo2j

 

[jr1under]

Yours is basically my situation except I see the effects ..

Thanks for that! After updating my grok query, it's telling me this:

Bottom line​

This is no longer a door-ajar switch or battery issue.It’s classic 1999 Expedition GEM or GEM-connector corrosion.Clean the plugs first — 70 % chance that fixes it for free.If not, replace the GEM and you’re done forever.

It is beginning to sound similar to the situation you've been dealing with. Also, dealing with the same weather - way too cold to be outside working on a car.

 

[Billme]

Did you clear the codes, and unhook the battery to do a hard reset? Let me know if they comeback

 

[Billme]

I’ve got to change a passenger side hub bearing and a shaft bearing on my granddaughter’s Car in this mess today..

 

[jr1under]

Did you clear the codes, and unhook the battery to do a hard reset? Let me know if they comeback

Never cleared the codes because grok had advised letting the GEM do that after the voltage stabilizes. The battery was disconnected for over an hour while I installed better quality terminals but the codes came right back.

 

[jr1under]

Cleared the codes yesterday, drove around the block, rescanned and got no codes. This morning after running some errands, the B1318-Battery Voltage Low and B1323-Door Ajar Warning Lamp circuit failure had returned. However, maybe, I understand grok's logic a little better now and the following is my takeaway.

Those codes are no longer considered to be specific problems that need to be addressed but just byproducts of a flaky GEM. If the GEM is compromised in any way - low voltage, corrosion, damage, etc. - nothing it says, does or influences can be trusted.

Next step is to pull the C242 and C243 connectors from the GEM, inspect, and spray the pins with contact cleaner. Grok gives that a 60-70% chance of solving the problem. If it doesn't, then the GEM itself has failed and needs to be replaced.

 

[Billme]

Had this come up today.. Even though I sent my Gem off, I’ve been concerned, specially watching your situation.. I’m going to change my multi switch, if that doesn’t work, then a new gem will be had..
Notice the other two show up this time, but the P.O. 500 is always there..
I wish Hamfisted would give his opinion..

 

[Billme]

I went on a 200 mile trip yesterday and the codes never showed up, so I have now confirmed that when I use turn signals, it’s fine, but when I use the dimmer switch, the code appears.. Of course that was with the lights on.. I’m going to change the multi switch based on that observation..I will do one more test just hitting the dimmer switch lights off..
If this is the case, then it’s wise to see which code shows up first after clearing the codes several times, and zero in on it, no matter what other codes show up..

 

[Billme]

Cleared the codes yesterday, drove around the block, rescanned and got no codes. This morning after running some errands, the B1318-Battery Voltage Low and B1323-Door Ajar Warning Lamp circuit failure had returned. However, maybe, I understand grok's logic a little better now and the following is my takeaway.

Those codes are no longer considered to be specific problems that need to be addressed but just byproducts of a flaky GEM. If the GEM is compromised in any way - low voltage, corrosion, damage, etc. - nothing it says, does or influences can be trusted.

Next step is to pull the C242 and C243 connectors from the GEM, inspect, and spray the pins with contact cleaner. Grok gives that a 60-70% chance of solving the problem. If it doesn't, then the GEM itself has failed and needs to be replaced.

Based on my latest episode, I would do the easiest first like changing the door switch.. It’s a plunger type action and surely gets a workout over this many years in the driver side, then if it shows up, go for the Gem..

 

[jr1under]

Based on my latest episode, I would do the easiest first like changing the door switch.. It’s a plunger type action and surely gets a workout over this many years in the driver side, then if it shows up, go for the Gem..

Thanks, that's what I'll do. Based on the AI consultant, I expected to pop off the kick panel and two GEM connectors would be easily accessible. Yeah, nah, that wasn't the case so I just put the panel back on.

 

[Billme]

pop off the kick panel and two GEM connectors would be easily accessible. Yeah, nah, that wasn't the case so I just put the panel back on.

Lol I know the feeling.. At least you can sit in a chair and fool with the switch..
That Gem is tough..

 

[Billme]

Still waiting on the dimmer switch.. I took it on a small trip and hit the switch.. Now the transmission is shifting weird and bumping, Manoman
You have to ease into it to take off then it engages..

 

[jr1under]

A slippery problem and mine now seems even more similar to yours as I had a P0500 show up. No more suspicions about scanner data because I get the same results with BlueDriver and FORScan Lite. Something that makes me still suspect the GEM is that a valid P0500 should cause a CEL but it's not lit here.

 

[Billme]

A slippery problem and mine now seems even more similar to yours as I had a P0500 show up. No more suspicions about scanner data because I get the same results with BlueDriver and FORScan Lite. Something that makes me still suspect the GEM is that a valid P0500 should cause a CEL but it's not lit here.

I installed the new switch, and still got the bad switch circuit code, but I’m thinking it may be the rear wiper motor which has never worked.. Still have the transmission issue.. All I can think to do at this point is to take enough fluid out, and add some Lucas to see if that helps.. In the meantime I’m going to see if this wiper code allows the other codes to comeback too.. If it does, then the Gem is going to be replaced even if Ifixit said it was good, I guess..
I feel like I’m flying without instruments lol

 

[jr1under]

but I’m thinking it may be the rear wiper motor which has never worked.

Mine hasn't worked in forever so a couple of years ago I disconnected it and pulled the fuse - #12 in the high-current box.

 

[Billme]

Mine hasn't worked in forever so a couple of years ago I disconnected it and pulled the fuse - #12 in the high-current box.

I didn’t realize it had its own circuit fuse. I’ll check it out, thanks!
I’m dreading this transmission deal..

 

[Billme]

A slippery problem and mine now seems even more similar to yours as I had a P0500 show up. No more suspicions about scanner data because I get the same results with BlueDriver and FORScan Lite. Something that makes me still suspect the GEM is that a valid P0500 should cause a CEL but it's not lit here.

The timing of both of us having the same problem has me thinking they’re sending destroy signals over the cell network lol