Poor acceleration then died.

[juan214]

I took another drive yesterday same thing less than a mile battery light. Ok, boys got my crap together today. Put the battery on a 2 amp charge for over 24 hour switched it to 6 amps this morning. Did voltage test on battery came in at 12.20V. Connected the ground cable to the battery and tested every connection to the cable end every connection came back 12.20V. Disconnected the ground cable and connected the positive cable same result 12.20V. Started it up and it ran ok, look at dash battery light is on now. Check voltage at it 12.10V steady. Got to be the alternator its got to be going out.

Jiggled the alternator wires around now have 14.05 -14.12 average voltage battery light is now off.

Left to idle and relearn idle went back meter says it is now charging less then 14 volts and continues to drop. Think as the alternator warms up is stops charging and drains the battery.

Got to 12.20 volts pulled the positive cable and it died again.

Poor idle and fuel smell still issues.

 

[Trainmaster]

As folks have said here, check your cables and connectors. Battery cables, alternator cable, connections and grounds. Disregard any auto parts chain "battery and alternator test". You have a bad cable, bad battery, bad alternator or diode.

It's 23 years old. You're in Massachusetts. Look for corrosion.

 

[Edward Stammer]

I had an alternator cause the dead battery thing once it got hot, replaced it had no issues after that. When it was cold, charged like a champ, but as soon as it got hot, down it went.

 

[Motorcity muscle]

Could be wrong but you should be able to pull battery cable connection from battery and truck should stay running. Alternator should be producing more than enough juice to keep it running, don't run for a long time with cable off but is a simple charging system test.

 

[juan214]

Sure sounds like a defective battery and/or corroded cable connectors (or a defective cable with corrosion inside the sheath).

Sorry none of the above.

 

[juan214]

I agree with @99WhiteC5Coupe start with a voltage drop test on positive and negative battery cables and starter cables.

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/voltage-drop-testing-for-no-start.26144/

Nope not this either.

 

[juan214]

Could be wrong but you should be able to pull battery cable connection from battery and truck should stay running. Alternator should be producing more than enough juice to keep it running, don't run for a long time with cable off but is a simple charging system test.

Not wrong at all, it still can be done on this truck.

 

[juan214]

Thanks for all the help guys with my charging issue. I ended up replacing the eight year old WORLD SOURCEONE® ALT-1719 rebuilt alternator (XL3U-10300-BB) with a used one from the salvage yard for $26.00. It was a Bosch rebuild with little oxidation on it. I'm thinking someone recently replaced it before junking their truck. I have noticed that the interior and exterior lights are now brighter than before even before starting it. I'm thinking the old alternator had issues from day one. Once I fix the other issues, I'll put the old alternator back in and see if I'm right, It did test good.

Onto scanner reading issues and new post(s).