Pclaythomas
Active Member
Well, just installed replacement cluster and.............nothing. Turns over but won't crank. Tried spare key, same result. The theft light is flashing fast,though. Wow, looks like I'm buying another vehicle.
Pulled cluster to install leds and now it won't start
- Thread starter Pclaythomas
- Start date
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
Too bad Bedrck47 isn't with us any more, he could take the next SpaceX satellite into orbit for them.....
Also reminds me of the "Cool Hand Luke" movie
Chief: What we've got here is failure to communicate.
Read reply #25 again.....
Also reminds me of the "Cool Hand Luke" movie
Chief: What we've got here is failure to communicate.
Read reply #25 again.....
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everything you need to get your truck back on the road is in this thread. With the new cluster Juan214's post in particular.
good luck.
Pclaythomas
Active Member
Thanks for all the help, guys. I have tried every suggestion that I can. Still, no luck. Feel like I'm a complete moron. I have built motors from scratch, and have tweaked all manners of Ford products since 1982, but, this experience has humbled me into giving up.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
This problem is nothing. You're probably tossing in the towel over a $100 fuel pump. The taxes and title transfer to another vehicle will cost more.
Trainmaster
Old School Member
I feel your pain, brother. We've all been there. The advice you got here is spot on. It isn't pretty but it is what it is. If that thing needs to be programmed, you ain't doing it with a paper clip. Juan's post makes sense.
Go read up on flashing the dash cluster. The difference between the old cars and today's cars is the tools you use. We used to use wrenches, now we read stuff on the Internet. Spend some time reading forum posts about reprogramming instrument clusters and PATS problems on your era Ford F-150's, Lincolns and Expeditions. You'll learn a lot and feel better.
Go read up on flashing the dash cluster. The difference between the old cars and today's cars is the tools you use. We used to use wrenches, now we read stuff on the Internet. Spend some time reading forum posts about reprogramming instrument clusters and PATS problems on your era Ford F-150's, Lincolns and Expeditions. You'll learn a lot and feel better.
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On a 2000??
Didn't know that. As someone said...stupid car maker ideas in the name of anti theft or odometer tampering.
juan214
Full Access Members
DONT DROP IN THE TOWEL... Replacing the truck will cost you more than the repair depending on the extent you want to go with the truck.
1.) KEYS: So you went tried the keys so you're all set there that was just in case your regular use key didn't drop the code.
2.) CLUSTER: "Richards" Post #25 As long as the cluster is disconnected your dead in the water. Smell the back of the cluster for a burnt smell. Tell all sign it is burnt out. Reseat all the connections and try again just in case a connection was misaligned, bent pins would not be an issue if they were the connectors would not go in at all.
3.) FUEL PUMP: "Richards" Post #35 is right on.
Test the full pump. perform at your own risk. AVOID OPEN FLAMES
a.) Turn the key on you should hear the pump come on for a few seconds. No sound got to "b". Sound go to "c"
b.) Check fuse under the hood in the fuse block. repeat "a"
c.) Put a drain pan under the fuel filter and disconnect the rear line. Connect a section of fuel hose to the rear line to direct the fuel to the pan. Turn key on and see if fuel is flowing. Fuel flow ok not the pump (*yet). No fuel go to "d".
d.) Test 12v power to fuel pump preferably with a helper. With a 12v test light and/or meter check all the wires at the connector one by one while a helper turns the ignition on and off. The test light will tell you there is power. The meter will tell you how much power. Power here tells there is not a short from Ignition to pump connector go to "e". No power find your short.
e.) Supply 12v direct to the power wire to pump. Pumps fuel through the line it's not the pump (*yet). No fuel pumped replace the pump.
Everything here tests OK here replace fuel filter while you there this will increase fuel pressure is the filter is original.
*yet= a weak pump can still cause an issue. Needs to be verified with fuel pressure test at the rail.
4.) REPLACEMENT CLUSTER: You went ahead and installed a replacement cluster that would not have worked as it was not flashed to your PCM. The theft light is flashing fast, is an indicator you have an issue with the PATS system. The installed cluster is not married to the PCM.
5.) CLUSTER LED's: I have been looking for LED's myself for well over a year, but not in a major rush for them. Bought a set they were wrong, they sent a second set wrong again. i HAVE DONE A LOT OF RESEARCH SO FAR.
OEM BULBS: The BASE COLOR of the bulbs has to match what you need. Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury have 18 different bulbs for there vehicles with bulb numbers
BULB NUMBERS: T5, T6, T10, to 194 (not the wedge style).
BASE COLORS: Black (5X), Grey (2X), Tan (2X), Red, White (3X), Pink, Light Green (1X), Green (2X), Blue (1X)
BULB BRAND/MANUFACTURER: Ford, Toshiba, Visteon, Land Rover, Toyota, Jaguar, Motorcraft, Dorman, GM, Chrysler, Alba
juan214
Full Access Members
PATS Diagnostics
Step 1
Check fuel cutoff Switch
Check PCM relay
Step 2
Reset instructions PATS
• This has reset instructions when you get to the point where she turns over but won't start.... re-syncing the pats key anti-theft instructions...
If it’s the PATS system......key out of ignition....put key in and turn on but do not start........look at theft light....should be blinking fast.....wait 30 to 45 seconds or until it starts to blink slow or goes out.......turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.........wait 15 seconds....turn key on.....do not start....look at theft light.....should be blinking slow......normal mode.....when wait to start light goes out it should start normally
Step 3
Check fuse 30 amp.
Step 4
Is the odometer displaying correctly or is it dashes (------) while the truck is doing this? If the odometer has dashes and there are no codes being set, chances are the truck is losing communication with the PCM. This will also cause the theft light to flash and the truck to turn over but not start. If this is the case, check the wiring around the power distribution box under the hood. Also, check all relays and fuses. Ford PCMs are pretty tough so that would be your last bet.
Things You'll Need
• Alarm keypad
• PATS programmed ignition key
Instructions
1. Press the unlock button on your vehicle's key fob to deactivate the alarm. If you've misplaced your remote for the car, use the PATS programmed key to unlock the driver's side door. Then, put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. The vehicle's battery should be on, but the engine shouldn't be running.
2. Locate the override button on the alarm box, beneath the driver's side of the dashboard. Press the button and hold it in until the alarm beeps one time. The LED light for the alarm should stop blinking, indicating the anti-theft system is disabled.
3. To reset the vehicle's alarm, put the PATS programmed key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. Press the override button. When the alarm resets, it chirps two times and the LED light begins blinking.
Step 5
Before you reset the battery; Press and hold the odometer SELECT/RESET button then turn the key to run. Keep holding the button till test shows in the odometer. Release the button. Press and release the button to scroll through the readings till you see dtc. If the cluster has any codes stored you will see them after the dtc.
Step 1
Check fuel cutoff Switch
Check PCM relay
Step 2
Reset instructions PATS
• This has reset instructions when you get to the point where she turns over but won't start.... re-syncing the pats key anti-theft instructions...
If it’s the PATS system......key out of ignition....put key in and turn on but do not start........look at theft light....should be blinking fast.....wait 30 to 45 seconds or until it starts to blink slow or goes out.......turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.........wait 15 seconds....turn key on.....do not start....look at theft light.....should be blinking slow......normal mode.....when wait to start light goes out it should start normally
Step 3
Check fuse 30 amp.
Step 4
Is the odometer displaying correctly or is it dashes (------) while the truck is doing this? If the odometer has dashes and there are no codes being set, chances are the truck is losing communication with the PCM. This will also cause the theft light to flash and the truck to turn over but not start. If this is the case, check the wiring around the power distribution box under the hood. Also, check all relays and fuses. Ford PCMs are pretty tough so that would be your last bet.
Things You'll Need
• Alarm keypad
• PATS programmed ignition key
Instructions
1. Press the unlock button on your vehicle's key fob to deactivate the alarm. If you've misplaced your remote for the car, use the PATS programmed key to unlock the driver's side door. Then, put the key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. The vehicle's battery should be on, but the engine shouldn't be running.
2. Locate the override button on the alarm box, beneath the driver's side of the dashboard. Press the button and hold it in until the alarm beeps one time. The LED light for the alarm should stop blinking, indicating the anti-theft system is disabled.
3. To reset the vehicle's alarm, put the PATS programmed key in the ignition and turn the key to the "on" position. Press the override button. When the alarm resets, it chirps two times and the LED light begins blinking.
Step 5
Before you reset the battery; Press and hold the odometer SELECT/RESET button then turn the key to run. Keep holding the button till test shows in the odometer. Release the button. Press and release the button to scroll through the readings till you see dtc. If the cluster has any codes stored you will see them after the dtc.
juan214
Full Access Members
Reflash:
If you end up with a reflash try a locksmith first more cost-effective.
Just a reminder DO NOT throw out your old cluster.
If you end up going to a dealer. Send the old cluster with the truck to your dealer. There is data on the old cluster they will need to pull. Make sure when you send the truck to the dealer all put together. You don't want them to charge you to do it when your labor is free especially when their rate is at over $100 an hour.
Dealer Cost Estimate $300
If you end up with a reflash try a locksmith first more cost-effective.
Just a reminder DO NOT throw out your old cluster.
If you end up going to a dealer. Send the old cluster with the truck to your dealer. There is data on the old cluster they will need to pull. Make sure when you send the truck to the dealer all put together. You don't want them to charge you to do it when your labor is free especially when their rate is at over $100 an hour.
Dealer Cost Estimate $300
