Rear a/c leak

[Retiredusps]

I hate to break your Bubble but that line is only rated for 35 lbs on the web site. Maybe you are going to do all that work for nothing. Why not check out a HVAC supply house!! Hate to see you go thru all that work and blow the line out. I think all tubing for ac is thick wall.

 

[gixer2000]

I hate to break your Bubble but that line is only rated for 35 lbs on the web site. Maybe you are going to do all that work for nothing. Why not check out a HVAC supply house!! Hate to see you go thru all that work and blow the line out. I think all tubing for ac is thick wall.

An HVAC supply house will sell him copper and nothing else. I haven't researched the tubing he's using so I really can't comment on what it will handle

 

[08navigator]

I hate to break your Bubble but that line is only rated for 35 lbs on the web site. Maybe you are going to do all that work for nothing. Why not check out a HVAC supply house!! Hate to see you go thru all that work and blow the line out. I think all tubing for ac is thick wall.

Where do you see that? They sell a smaller wall thickness one for cheaper but this wall thickness is pretty much spot on with stock and it's double the thickness of the cheaper stuff.

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[08navigator]

I hate to break your Bubble but that line is only rated for 35 lbs on the web site. Maybe you are going to do all that work for nothing. Why not check out a HVAC supply house!! Hate to see you go thru all that work and blow the line out. I think all tubing for ac is thick wall.

I think your looking at the .035 wall thickness tubing. This is .070 thickness.

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[Retiredusps]

I went by the part number you listed.Unless I made a mistake. I found this site that sells a lot of Kits and a/c parts. Nostalgic AC Parts Complete Universal R-134a Hose Kits

 

[08navigator]

I went by the part number you listed.Unless I made a mistake. I found this site that sells a lot of Kits and a/c parts. Nostalgic AC Parts Complete Universal R-134a Hose Kits

It looks like somebody has it listed wrong on their website. If it's not .070 I'll return it and look elsewhere. What website did you find? I'm new to all of this so all help is appreciated.

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[TobyU]

As long as it's aluminum and about the same thickness as the factory it will probably hold but those pressures do exceed 250 psi. That 35 psi rating is much much much below the burst strength and they're just saying that to be very cautious. Think about it. Even aluminum tubing that you could been with your pinky finger would still hold 80-100 PSI before it would rupture.
In all reality you could use some of the Rhino guard steel fuel line from the parts store or the Cunifer stuff if it were the same diameter and using compression fittings to fit. The inside is not going to rust this going to be coated in oil all the time anyways and the outside has that green coating which you can paint over and would more than likely Outlast the time you're going to own the vehicle. At a point like this it's all about getting the vehicle cool. If you can do repair in a couple of hours and get by 3 years plus then it's well worth doing even if you might have to do it again. You need that air conditioning.
You could even try to push a piece of rubber high pressure AC line of the appropriate size over your existing line and triple clamp it. I want to be slid on at least three inch minimum and then triple clamp with the clamps rotated in different clock positions around the line. I really don't trust these unless there is a barbed end. An ac or radiator shop could braze you a barbed end right onto the place where you cut it off at.
If the aluminum you get is fairly stiff and hard to bend it will probably be just fine.
If it splits open you'll just have to do it again.

 

[08navigator]

As long as it's aluminum and about the same thickness as the factory it will probably hold but those pressures do exceed 250 psi. That 35 psi rating is much much much below the burst strength and they're just saying that to be very cautious. Think about it. Even aluminum tubing that you could been with your pinky finger would still hold 80-100 PSI before it would rupture.
In all reality you could use some of the Rhino guard steel fuel line from the parts store or the Cunifer stuff if it were the same diameter and using compression fittings to fit. The inside is not going to rust this going to be coated in oil all the time anyways and the outside has that green coating which you can paint over and would more than likely Outlast the time you're going to own the vehicle. At a point like this it's all about getting the vehicle cool. If you can do repair in a couple of hours and get by 3 years plus then it's well worth doing even if you might have to do it again. You need that air conditioning.
You could even try to push a piece of rubber high pressure AC line of the appropriate size over your existing line and triple clamp it. I want to be slid on at least three inch minimum and then triple clamp with the clamps rotated in different clock positions around the line. I really don't trust these unless there is a barbed end. An ac or radiator shop could braze you a barbed end right onto the place where you cut it off at.
If the aluminum you get is fairly stiff and hard to bend it will probably be just fine.
If it splits open you'll just have to do it again.

That makes sense. For the minimal cost I'll give this stuff a try. I'll have the vacuum pump and manifold if I ever have to do it again. Parts should arrive this week. I'll update this thread with the outcome. Thanks again!

There's actually a company out there who makes rubber hose replacement lines for these suvs. I called and they said they hope to have the line for the expedition before summer this year.

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[Retiredusps]

The site I sent you has kits with i think are sections of the rubber hose and a assortment of fittings.maybe you could use rubber and go up inside the back panel and start from there.You will also need a new dryer they suck up moisture like crazy. If you do not replace the unit is likely freeze up on you, then defrost and start working again.If it was me I would start in the rear compartment with metal or rubber and go forward to where you could splice in somewhere along frame rail that is easy to work on.That's just me. If you are going to go with the alum I would get a tubing bender. They sell spring ones or you can slide rubber hose over so it doesn't kink while bending.I did a few of under dash units years ago that everything was adapted to the car or truck. Try the site I posted and ask them Questions. Its only a email or phone call. No I do not have anything to do with them.Just trying to help

 

[Retiredusps]

The site I posted has kits with rubber hose with fittings,also tubing. You should also replace dryer and orifice.If it was me I would start to replace from inside to splice and go forward to a open area along frame rail that is easy to work on.I don't really remember how the connections are inside to get to. the site I sent has a lot of a/c parts and retro kits maybe call or email with you problem.The orifice is easy to change the screen gets plugged. Also make sure you get the correct color !!


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