Rear Washer Fluid Line

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blacktail

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I’ve got wiper fluid running down from the headliner just in front of the c pillar. Is there an easy way to remove the c pillar cover? Or should I check a different connection first? Never had this occur before, but things have been frozen lately. Got the wiper fluid in it, not water, so hoping it’s not a busted hose…
 

whtbronco

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The traditional blue wiper fluid will still freeze. I started using the winter fluid many years ago, but have since switched to Rain-X wiper fluid all year.

I'm pretty much certain you have busted a hose. I'll find the C pillar trim removal and post it. I think you just have to remove the seat belt and unsnap it. I'll verify.
 

whtbronco

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1. NOTE:
- Position the safety belt guide to the lowest position.
- Inspect the shoulder safety belt guide cover for damage. If the shoulder safety belt guide cover is damaged or cover does not remain closed, install a new shoulder safety belt guide cover.

Remove the safety belt guide.
- Lift up on the cover and remove the nut.
2. Remove the C-pillar trim panel.
- Remove the bolt cover and bolt and pull outward to release the retainers.

INSTALLATION
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

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There's a small bolt behind that quarter sized cover. A small extendable magnet helps not to drop the bolt when you pull it out.
 

blacktail

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So I was able to locate the problem. There is a union where the hose has slipped out. This is just behind and to the passenger side above the headliner where the brake light assembly resides with the rear shut. Anyone recommend a certain glue/sealant to use here? Going to try and avoid dropping the headliner beyond removing the two rearmost plastic pieces. Thinking I will use long needle nose pliers to reattach, or, fab up longer piece to splice in. Don’t really have a lot of slack in the line now.
 

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whtbronco

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I'm not sure where that hose connects, but personally I would consider using Permatex The Right Stuff RTV. If the surfaces are clean and dry The Right Stuff holds rubber really well once it fully sets up. The downside to it is that it can be difficult to wipe off of skin.
 

GaryH

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As mentioned by whtbronco, this is a known problem and it happened to me. The washer line/hose to the rear washer becomes disconnected at a point behind the passenger side kick panel. The fluid then runs into the wiring channel underneath the passenger door plate. That will cause some of the wiring to corrode. Check it out. For me, it was impossible to reconnect the hose. I just plugged the rear washer hose under the hood and do without the rear washer. The biggest symptom of this problem is a "washer fluid low" message after you just filled it or what seems like excessive refilling needed.
 
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unclerandy

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It should not move anywhere, except at the tailgate. However, the hose could be moved from working under the hood between the washer pump and the firewall. I suppose it could also get kicked or moved inside the firewall near the passenger kick panel. It bends and moves every time you open the tailgate, mine broke where it goes into the roof panel.

I really like the @Hamfisted posted of using a vacuum pump. Try pulling a bit of vacuum pressure on it and then hit the switch for the washer pump.

Mine had stopped recently for some reason. I didn't really care I pretty much never use it, but this thread got me to thinking about it again. I just hit the switch for like 15-20 seconds and washer fluid started flowing out the rear jet again.
If I can’t blow air in either direction why would trying to vacuum be different? It seems mine has to be pinched or somehow plugged.
 

whtbronco

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Pulling some vacuum is not likely to tear anything apart. Blowing high pressure air can very easily blow connections apart. Low pressure air probably wouldn't hurt, but it won't likely help either. The other option is to remove some trim and pull the outside of the headliner down a bit to do a visual inspection. A borescope would help here too since it'll fit into small areas and allow you trace along the hose looking for an issue.

Mine was just $35, it's not great, but it has saved my bacon a few times. The screen/camera resolution is good enough to read small text and has decent color. This past weekend I had a valve spring retainer fall and I could not find it. With the borescope I was able to find it and then fish an extendable magnet in to retrieve it. Took 5 minutes or less with the scope. After I had already spent 20-25 minutes looking for it.
 
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unclerandy

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Pulling some vacuum is not likely to tear anything apart. Blowing high pressure air can very easily blow connections apart. Low pressure air probably wouldn't hurt, but it won't likely help either. The other option is to remove some trim and pull the outside of the headliner down a bit to do a visual inspection. A borescope would help here too since it'll fit into small areas and allow you trace along the hose looking for an issue.

Mine was just $35, it's not great, but it has saved my bacon a few times. The screen/camera resolution is good enough to read small text and has decent color. This past weekend I had a valve spring retainer fall and I could not find it. With the borescope I was able to find it and then fish an extendable magnet in to retrieve it. Took 5 minutes or less with the scope. After I had already spent 20-25 minutes looking for it.
Thanks for the advice. I have a borescope and will incorporate that. I’ve had almost every trim panel off multiple times over the years doing stereo work and such. I’ve never had the headliner down and don’t know how that’s done. I would agree pulling the vacuum from the rear would have been “safer” to avoid blowing a joint apart but I’m past that since I’ve blown from both ends and nothing came apart and no air flows either way. I’m considering weed wacker line or really heavy fishing line to push down the line looking for a stoppage. Do you know where the elbows are?
 
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