Remanufactured Engine

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BillAlex

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Hi Stamp. Yes, we changed the Genuine OEM Ford Engine Crankshaft Rear Main Seal F4AZ-6701-A and I put in a Ford OEM Automatic Transmission Extension Housing Seal F6UZ-7052-A Factory. I used OEM Ford parts as I am scared with aftermarket. There is some discussion on aftermarket as they constantly see failed units and the ones they make are sometimes better than original. What are your thoughts on that?
 
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BillAlex

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One quick note; The drivers side (Left) valve cover looked like a chain saw had cut through the end of it. I did buy a used Valve cover from a junk yard for $50. As you can see from the photos, the block is all shining and new, the Valve Cover not so much. If you guys are changing out Phasers and Timing Chain kit, be sure to look at the underside of your Valve Covers and also the inside of the Timing Chain Cover. It might surprise you.
 

stamp11127

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I've never heard of the input shaft pump seal being called an extension housing seal. What comes to mind with that is the tailshaft housing seal.
Where is the seal located in relation to the bellhousing?
 
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BillAlex

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Hi Stamp; There are two. The first one is the Torque Converter Seal, which should be done since the trannie is out. The second one is also called a rear trannie seal that goes to the U-joints. Both were replaced. I was thinking of listing all the parts that I put into the vehicle in addition to the Reman Engine. Should I start a new thread and should I include the part numbers?
 
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BillAlex

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While test driving and varying the speed in a residential area breaking the engine in, we blew a seal on the Power Steering pump. My mechanic told me that this sometimes happens and when the car is returned to the Customer, they always seem to think the Mechanic "broke it". We had a good laugh about it and then simply replaced the Power Steering Pump. I much rather have it happen now than driving down a deserted road at three in the morning.
 
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BillAlex

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The OP still hasn't posted if all his research has paid off. Lot's of detail on the first three experiences but nothing on the fourth.

How many miles on the new motor and how does it run? How did the project turn out?

The new motor has less than 50 miles on it. I sort of believe in old school philosophy of breaking a new engine in slow and easy and not running Synthetic Oil in it for at least Ten Thousand miles. I am a big believer however that synthetic, specifically Mobile One is the reason that some get 350,000 miles out of an engine with doing nothing more than changing spark plugs, oil and filter. An opposing view point on this is a friend of mine who just bought a new Hemi and off the show room floor took it up to over a 140 miles per hour on the Indio Desert. He said if you plan to drive em fast, break em in fast. I disagree, but let your conscience and the Highway Patrol decide who is correct.

In regards to the research, I would have to state that without it, I would have been a babe in the woods and certainly taken advantage of. I first started looking into local Machine Shops around the Phoenix area and complaints filed to the Better Business Bureau. It was eye opening to say the least. I could not believe how many shops were actually using "used" parts in their rebuild. If it passed a compression check or if the parts didn't look "broken", then in they would go. I started getting quotes from a number of shops in the area for labor install and of course, they shared with me some of the nightmare stories they had about "crate" engines and even some from the "Dealerships". Come to find out, most of the Dealerships buy from local machine shops.

This led me to look into National Companies like Jasper Engines. Jasper had more complaints against them than I could even read. Then again, Jasper probably sells a Thousand engines a month so they are huge. This also led me to Autozone and O'Reilly's. They were cheaper but not by much. I actually saw a posting on the Ford Expedition Forum and decided to look at Promar. When you stop and think about the high tech equipment really needed to rebuild one of these beast, you tend to take your hat off to a company with hundreds of thousands of Dollars invested in "making it right" the first time. Some of the Machine shops I looked at had a "hot tank" and that was about it. It was no brainer. Just take the time to read their web site.

I did have a moment or weakness when I read post by Habbibie and Stamp. Both seemed to be very knowledgeable on buying used engines. As I posted earlier, most of my Purchases were out of State and I was unable to test the motors and simply kept my fingers crossed. Needless to say, none of the used engines worked for me. So if you are considering replacing your engine, make sure you read up on post by either Habbibie or Stamp. Very good source of information and they know what they are talking about.
 

JExpedition07

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BillAlex I think you chose a good route. Thanks for the write up. Either a reputable rebuild or a brand new crate is the best option imo. Nowadays to get a brand new 5.4L long block you’ll need to order short block and heads separately from ford, they no longer sell a brand new assembled long block. Ford does however sell a reman long block. Some have had good experiences with junk yard engines and like stamp said if you run it in the vehicle and check it out it’s a viable option as well. Best of luck.
 
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500 miles on Reman Engine and it runs like a sewing machine. Minor adjustment to tightening Manifold bolts for slight exhaust leak but everything else A-OK. I dropped the break in oil today and replaced filter. This is probably going to start a "flame" war but here goes. Old School mechanics swear you need to break in your engine for at least Ten Thousand miles before you switch to Synthetic Oil with the reasoning being that the rings and lifters will never seat properly until it is broken in. I am here to tell you that I have driven over 216,000 miles on the sister Truck and since it was so dependable, I bought an identical one. Today, I drained the break in oil and filled her up with 5W-20W Mobile One. The reason I drove my other one for over Two hundred thousand is I used Mobil One religiously and changed the oil ever 5,000 miles. Still runs like a charm. So the new engine, I decided screw it, I am running Synthetic and hope to report to you a quarter of a million miles from now that it is still running strong. Here is what Mobil says about it's oil:
Myth:
You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.

Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:

  • Acura RDX
  • Aston Martin
  • All Bentley Vehicles
  • All Cadillac Vehicles
  • Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
  • Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
  • Chrysler 300C SRT-8
  • Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
  • Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
  • Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
  • Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
  • Mercedes SLR
  • Mitsubishi Evolution
  • Pontiac Solstice GXP
  • All Porsche Vehicles
  • Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
  • Viper SRT-10
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.

- http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Myths.aspx
 
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