Retain use of subwoofer with aftermarket stereo

[jg5343]

I have installed an aftermarket stereo and have lost the use of my factory subwoofer. I have a 2005 with factory nav so the harnesses are a little different and therefore there are none available to purchase as a plug and play. Has anyone gotten their factory sub to work without running 100% new wires and just cutting the plug off? Thanks

 

[jg5343]

Also, the ford multikit leaves a HUGE gap above my stereo, again I am assuming because it has factory nav. Does anyone have any idea if they make a kit to fit the larger hole?

2005 King Ranch Expedition w/Factory Nav

 

[bubbadabulldawg]

I installed a Pioneer Z2 in my truck and it came with an ABS trim ring that filled the gap around the radio, if your setup didn't or the mounting isn't aligning to what you are expecting you can try this Ford Radio Dash Kit Double DIN Install Aftermarket Stereo Faceplate FD54DD | eBay
As for retaining the factory sub and amp the answer is yes but recommended answer is no, the sub amp runs off the speaker voltage output of the factory deck and doesn't have low level input from RCA output of an aftermarket deck. You can spend money on converters but it isn't worth it. Best option is to replace the factory subwoffer with a 10TW3-D4 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio and give it it's own amp if you want to stay hidden behind the factory panel.

 

[jg5343]

Factory amp and sub

Thanks for the info, I'll check it out.

Here's solution to the sub I posted in another thread. It absolutely works and sounds amazing:

So searching the web near and far there is VERY little info on how to do this. The 2005 with factory nav does not have the same harness as the models without factory nave and therefore the 70-5521 harness with the addition RCA plug does not fit. You will actiall need the harness for older fords, thats easy to find, and crutchfield will get you that one. They are fully aware of this anomaly.

The hard part is hooking up the factory subwoofer through the factory amp. Here's the scoop:

Find the 12 pin plug with 4 wires in it. There is another plug that actually reads "AMP" on the top of it. That is NOT the right one. Pin out for that plug is as follows:

BN/OG: + speaker input (Only one RCA plug is required from the back of your HU. Tape off the white one if you have two. This is where you hook up the positive input or red wire from your line converter)

RD/BK: - speaker input (See above. Use the negative or black wire from same RCA)

BK: wire shield??? (I just hooked this up to ground, but I feel its not necessary)

DG/VT: Enable input (Hook up the AMP turn on wire from your HU here)

That's it! Bass is booming now! Feel free to ask questions, I got answers! Spent two days researching and testing this to find this pin out so hopefully I have paid it forward a little here. Good luck!

Helpful link but keep in mind you may have to use the one listed as not having factory nav: | Repair Guides | Entertainment Systems (2005) | Audio System | AutoZone.com

 

[jg5343]

Gap

I dont think you had factory nav in your ride. There is definitely a difference in the opening size, and is actually about 2 and 1/3 DIN tall. I have that kit but had to custom fill the gap at the top with black laminate. Looks fine. A permanent solution for me would be to just buy the fascia that fits a standard size radio and replace that. You can find them for about $50.

 

[bubbadabulldawg]

I dont think you had factory nav in your ride. There is definitely a difference in the opening size, and is actually about 2 and 1/3 DIN tall. I have that kit but had to custom fill the gap at the top with black laminate. Looks fine. A permanent solution for me would be to just buy the fascia that fits a standard size radio and replace that. You can find them for about $50.

My truck did not come with factory navigation I installed a Pioneer Z2 unit, but what I installed does not matter because the opening for the factory nav and the stereo options that was offered by Ford fits inside the same size opening. It is a double din sized opening. Aftermarket stereos are built to a standard size and either fit snugly inside that opening or are built a little smaller the factory opening and need a trim ring or an adapter to fit properly. If you chose to install a single din sized stereo into a double din opening than yes you will have fitment issues. You would actually be amazed by the stereos that some vehicles have in the dash where they are not stereos at all but just a display and the stereo is in a lower location inside the dash somewhere and require the replacement of the dash console, but I digress.

I was replying to original question as to have a factory amp and sub able to run off an aftermarket stereo and from what I've read is that you cut an rca cable stripped the covering and spliced it to the harness that feeds signal to the factory subwoffer amp, I'm surprised that you have it working because the rca output is a maximum of 4v and the subwoffer signal wire runs off the speaker output signal wiring which is higher voltage. Am I safe to assume that you connected the truck speaker wires to the speaker wires coming from the new stereo? Also if you did use an rca wire to provide signal to the subwoffer, did the stereo have subwoffer output or did you use either the front or rear rca output from the stereo, which if you did than your subwoffer is now a full range speaker minus a tweeter and not a subwoffer anymore.

 

[jg5343]

My truck did not come with factory navigation I installed a Pioneer Z2 unit, but what I installed does not matter because the opening for the factory nav and the stereo options that was offered by Ford fits inside the same size opening. It is a double din sized opening. Aftermarket stereos are built to a standard size and either fit snugly inside that opening or are built a little smaller the factory opening and need a trim ring or an adapter to fit properly. If you chose to install a single din sized stereo into a double din opening than yes you will have fitment issues. You would actually be amazed by the stereos that some vehicles have in the dash where they are not stereos at all but just a display and the stereo is in a lower location inside the dash somewhere and require the replacement of the dash console, but I digress.

I was replying to original question as to have a factory amp and sub able to run off an aftermarket stereo and from what I've read is that you cut an rca cable stripped the covering and spliced it to the harness that feeds signal to the factory subwoffer amp, I'm surprised that you have it working because the rca output is a maximum of 4v and the subwoffer signal wire runs off the speaker output signal wiring which is higher voltage. Am I safe to assume that you connected the truck speaker wires to the speaker wires coming from the new stereo? Also if you did use an rca wire to provide signal to the subwoffer, did the stereo have subwoffer output or did you use either the front or rear rca output from the stereo, which if you did than your subwoffer is now a full range speaker minus a tweeter and not a subwoffer anymore.

The size of the openings are DIFFERENT. Trust me on this. I am not an idiot. I have a DDIN installed in the factory nav opening which is almost an inch TALLER than your opening. IT IS NOT THE SAME SIZE OPENING. Do more research.

The subwoofer works perfectly as a subwoofer being run from the subwoofer output of my Kenwood DDX790. I am not sure you know what you are talking about or your truck had a completely different set up. Sub woofer outputs into a subwoofer input makes sense to me. AND it sounds bad ass.

Anyone looking to make it work should do what I did to save money and the pain of rewiring the entire gig.